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Archive through January 12, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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jmacdonald

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2006
Messages
228
Location
Western Maine
displayname
James MacDonald
Charlie I checked underneath and the Clutch Pedal return spring is there and working ok.

Donald I think you mean the Rod assy cam centering and the associated swivel? I couldn't see those parts from underneath.

I still need to do the trunion speed fix so I guess this spring I will attempt to split the tractor and get a good look at and clean up all these parts. I might even be able to put it all back together. Wouldn't that be a hoot for me!

PS What is the inspection plate used for that is located on the break pedal side of the frame(bolts onto the front of the rear fender). I removed it and I can see the speed plate. Is it just to be able to put some greese on the groove in the plate?

Thanks
 
James M.-

That plate is theoretically so you can re-adjust the position of neutral. There's a little arrow on the cam plate, that when pointing to the center of the pin that rides in the slot, means that it is in neutral. I wouldn't put grease on that, it'll just collect all kinds of crap and wear stuff out.
 
Ok my frustration level has reached its peak. Can someone PLEASE tell me how to get the manual PTO off of my 12 hp. The set screws are stripped so I've got to do it the hard way. I've tried the "chain" trick but Im not sure what you attach the chain to. Do you wrap it around the pulley groove of the PTO? if so that doesn't work. The chain just pops off. Partly b/c you don't get a pull from the center. You end up pulling from somewhere around the side of the pully. Any help is GREATLY appreciated. Cubs are great, but this PTO design is awful.
 
Jim - Try 2 chains

Red = #1 & #2 chain in belt groove
Blue = Bolts
Take the tag ends of the chain and bring them together and tie them to a door knob and pull that tooth ;)
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Jim T.-

Patience. That's the first thing you need to remove a stubborn PTO. Have you drilled out or otherwise removed the set screws? Make sure to put a bunch of PB blaster or similar stuff on the crank where the bearing is located. My dad and I made a contraption out of angle iron to remove PTOs. Unfortunately, it's in Illinois, and I'm in Florida. Anyway, here's something I threw together quick in Inventor to show you what we did. Connect your chain and slide hammer to this.

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Good luck, and I don't have much homework this weekend, so if you want more screenshots of this or any other info, let me know. Good luck and hang in there!

By the way, as an engineering student, I'm gonna say that the clutch is a good design. However, poor maintenance is why your clutch is stuck on. I put anti-seize on everything on a tractor when I put it back together. The tractors I have that have never seen snow or been kept outside can be disassembled without penetrating oil, except for the muffler clamp usually. Don't be so quick to blame the engineers for bad maintenance, it's not their fault...
 
Jim-
I just struggled with this about two weeks ago. I agree, if the tractor has spent any time outside, it suddenly becomes a "bad design" when the set screw heads strip out.

Chain method..
Should be used as a last-resort, but it will work. If your chain won't stay in the pulley's belt groove, then you need to find a chain with a smaller link. I have a heavy logging chain here that is just too big to stay in the belt-groove when pulled on, but another piece I have with links that are about 1" long fits the groove nicely. This small piece then gets attached to the longer logging chain, which then gets hooked to a solid attachment point....usually the rear hitch of a vehicle.

If the engine is still in the tractor, just roll the tractor backwards until the PTO is ripped off the bearing. If the engine is out of the tractor, you have to be ready to man-handle the engine and "pop" it against the tension of the chain while holding the weight of the engine with your arms. Not easy, and usually some choice language seems to help....at least in my situation.
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You are correct, the chain will pull at an angle, but I think the points of the set screws end up breaking off, so I just give it little "pops" against the chain and keep rotating the chain until all of the set screw points are broken off and the PTO starts to move.

In my opinion, somebody could make some real money selling a puller for this situation. It could be a slide-hammer puller like Ken's design, or a brace that straddles the entire PTO assembly and pushes against the block itself.

Either way, this design "bites" when it's been awhile since it's been apart.
 
Matt-
Not only do you type faster than me, but that's a great design.
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Will a slide hammer connected to that contraption pull the PTO off with the set screws still in it? If so, NICE WORK!
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Art-

Yes, it will. This pulled a PTO off a 100 that sat for 10-15 years outside with no hood or grille casting. And thank you!
 
Wow what a great response for a Saturday. Thanks for all the input guys. I have had this tractor for about 2 years so I really don't know the history but yes it definitely has lacked some maintenance. I'll keep at it.

Matt, don't you know it's always the engineer's fault!!
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I guess I shouldn't get cocky, I have three cub pto's to pull from old narrow frames. They have all and are still outside.
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A few days ago I reffered to a 25 amp stator for a k series. Did I miss the reply or am I just dreaming of more power?
 
Patrick, quietline question on getting to fuel shut off. I wish the articles posted here were not in simple tree form. It makes it hard to track direct responses.

Anyway, I took my side panel and used a large bi-metal hole saw in the drill press to cut a portion of the panel away. It cut a semi-circular opening that allows access to the furl shut off. It always struck me as odd that the designers never caught this.
 
Does anyone have any pictures on how to mount a hydraulic pump on a 1000 Quietline. I want to mount a loader on it and use the front clutch to drive the hyd, pump Thanks John
 
John W.
It's worked great for us for going on 10 years now.
It's actually pretty simple and much faster than threads IMO.
 
Threads are annoying. It takes a lot less time for me to read stuff on here than it would on a forum with all those threads.
 
As far as threads, to each their own. ;) I have been reading multiple forums for years in other disciplines in thread form and prefer that. I don't have to look at a thread that doesn't pertain, here I have to read everything..

Johnn Sugg, pictures are in your e-mail
 
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