Archive through January 09, 2014

[dkirk]

Just a comment on ZDDP additive for Kohler engines...these L-head engines employ a simple, low-mass valve train with relatively light spring pressures. Engine speeds are modest at 3600 rpm. Splash lubrication supplies ample lubricant to the cam and lifter contact surfaces. Spalling of the cam surface due to high contact pressures just do not occur in these engines due to the low spring forces. Some Tecumseh and Briggs engines use plastic (Nylon) cams that provide a 500 hour useful life, attesting to the moderate forces encountered with these small engines.

My thoughts are that adding a ZDDP additive, or using oils with high ZDDP content just aren't necessary with our applications.

 

[dfrisk]

JOHN - Not sure I understand your point. IMO, the way an engine is cooled, whether via finned head & barrel with a mechanically induuced air flow over the fins, or with circulated water only has ONE factor in the oil needed, the air cooled engine runs hotter, and the oil plays a bigger part in reducing operating temp.

IMO, the fact these Kohlers have splash lube system, if you can call it that, makes a bigger difference. The oil must maintain a more fluid state so it can be splashed around inside the engine quickly at start up, but still maintain enough film strength when hot to protect, lube, and cool the rotating & sliding parts.

A full synthetic oil deals with high temps better than a basic mineral oil. A "Hydro-Cracked" base oil like the oil Charlie uses is a better method of refining mineral or dino oil, gets similar properties to a full synthetic.

With proper service intervals a synthetic, Hydro-cracked dino, or conventional dino oil all work fine.

In that regard, our little Kohler's are no different than a new car engine, or a 15 liter diesel engine in an 80,000# semi-truck. The engine MFG sets the standard based off their durability testing, the oil co's test to meet or exceed that standard. We buy based on those standards, dump it in the crankcase, and hope it all works out.

MICHAEL H. - re ZDDP - With Rotella, either straight 30W, or 10W-30 or 15E-40 oil, there's either 1200 or 1400 PPM ZDDP in the oil, the straight 30W even more. No need for supplimental ZDDP additive. Save your money!

I haven't called any other diesel oil mfg's like CHevron, Monil, etc., Only Shell, but I'm sure the others have 800 numbers you can call to answer technical questions as well.

High revving small and even big block engines use Rotella straight out of the jug with no additives and use valve springs with 300-400 pounds of spring pressure PLUS the mechanical leverage from the rocker arms multipling the force on the lifter to cam surface. Our little Kohler's use tiny springs with only 30-40 pounds of pressure with NO mechanical leverage on the lifter to cam surface, LOTS less force to deal with.

 

[tsimpson]

I get a kick out of these oil debates. I'm using valvoline 5-30 synthetic in my 129 right now and Kohler 30 in the summer. I pushed snow on Monday and today. Monday it was -15, it groaned a bit but started and ran fine. I had an original for 35 years all. It burned oil like crazy, looked like a steam engine when I was using it. I never changed the oil, just kept adding it as I used it up and all I ever put in it was the cheapest 30 wt. non- detergent oil that I could buy. I cut over an acre all summer and pushed snow every winter...and it still ran when I sold it! All I can say is the kohler engines are the best that I've ever seen, I'm taking much better care of this one, I'd like to get 50 years out of it and still be around to use, of course that would put me at about 125.

 

[dtanner]

Well had my 102 running and the door open to go for a run ; dang it stopped and lost fire to the plug . Close the door and change some parts . What would you guys change first ?? condenser ? coil ??

I was ready for some seat time in the 8" frozen snow we have . I had the 10 running great and then it acted like it run out if gas.Carb was cleaned with a new kit and fuel bowl.

 

[dtanner]

I might end up making one of these if we get snow before I fix my 450 snow blower.

Notice the Bud Light sign. that must be a US guy from down near Denny LOL.

 

[danderson]

Test the coil. Positive side to the tower should be 7000 to 12000 ohms. Positive side to negative side should be 4 to 8 ohms. There should be no continuity between any terminal and the case.

 

[nbextermueller]

Ugh... It's not spring yet... We are not due for a reprising of the Great Oil Debate yet.

I will continue to represent one brand. LUCAS OIL.

Honestly, I'm not sure what else you could ask for. Their SAE 30 PLUS oil (or 50 Plus) is SPECIFICALLY designed for Flat Tappet, Air Cooled engines. It is made from a high grade base that while not full syn, is far superior to regular old Mobil, Castrol, Rotella, Valvoline, and oh god... Pennzoil.

John, to answer your question, yes someone does make an oil for the engines.

I just poured 1qt in the 782 yesterday at 17* degrees in the cold shop. Oil sitting in the floor next to it. It pour just as well as the delicious pure Canadian Maple Syrup in my fridge.

Even after seeing the videos, I don't think I'll be using the cubs in -35F weather. So I'm sticking with what works. There is a reason their motto is IT WORKS!

Seriously guys, give it a shot. There is a noticeable difference in all my cubs when I run out and have to switch to 5w-30 full syn Valvoline. Which is what I run in my '94 Saturn (130k mi) '01 f150 (130k mi) and '01 Lexus (235k mi!) all changed at 5k intervals oil and filter.

 

[dtanner]

Doug A

She liked the new coil. Better stoping in my shop that 200' away at -6 lol.

http://youtu.be/RFMErIr18K4

Thanks for the tip. I can never remember how I should test lol; Just replace parts. Good info to Know

 

[dfrisk]

DON - I'd change out that gas tank first, at least wire brush all that crappy paint off!

That Cubbie is having an "Inferior-ity Complex"!

No Bud Light around here. Miller/Coors or any one of the hundreds of great small to micro-breweries in the state. Spotted Cow from New Glarus (WI) Brewing is especially good.

And for a treat sometimes, I'll buy a 12-pk of Dos Equis Amber at Fuzzy's liquor in town. Yeah, it's Mexican, and about a hundred times better than Corona! I save the last can to cook up a half dozen bratwurst from the local meat market in Cottage Grove, Wi. A brat, a GOOD Beer, and some cheese, that's why I moved to Wisonsin!

 

[dtanner]

I have four tanks that I could have used; That 102 arrived here with that tank . I had to go out side and it gave me a big grin . I will set the rpm`s at 3800 wot no load and test the mixture . My 129 loader is the model I use to get an engine running at. I will say there is nothing like a great running engine in any piece of equipment. Next is paint on my 125 and get the deck that is finished mounted .fenders and seat pan is where it is to my Reub .Then fenders painted and the 1512 diesel will see some new paint . Then the 129 loader I think will get power steering and new for tri ribs . Spring Will be here and I will trade my Nomad MC for an Indian Chief. Life is good. Later Don T

 

[bwittman]

Nic,

When you are talking PennZoil, be sure to "Sound Your Z."

 

[danderson]

Don-Mine went out a week ago and had to look up the tests. I had just pulled into my drive from 4 blocks away doing the church sidewalk. Only had to push about 30 feet in 20° weather.

 

[dtanner]

Guys thanks for the help over the years and with my cubs I think my MC should come up to what I enjoy with Cubs. So look for this in my drive this summer.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eiESh0PJUYU

 

[tbdavis]

Lewis - I think you're correct about the creeper being out of a wide frame. The handle is a straight, long, one piece handle. It also protrudes about a half inch or so further out the side of the case than the NF handles which would explain the rubbing on the creeper slot. Just found a used NF handle do think I'm good to go now. And, on the oil debate - creepers need juice too. Two of mine were dry when I got em and bearings in both were fried beyond recognition! Not a good thing! HyTran or whatever folks prefer is pretty cheap insurance in the overall scheme of things. I'm curious how many people routinely check the fluid level in their creepers - my uneducated guess is not many.

 

[rkelm]

Terry, You have me thinking now. I just aquired a 126 this fall with a creeper and I am new to the creeper - where do you check the level. I probably won't use it as I only mow with the cc.

 

[tkhoffman]

Give Polaris a few years to make something good of the Indian. Polaris is the company that can do it. All the previous owners never improved a thing on those bikes. Pretty? YES. reliable? nope.

 

[ksanders]

Rodney,
I stole this pic from google. There is a plug on the side to check it. Very annoying to get to on narrow frames with the lack of a tunnel cover. Have to go in from the bottom of the tractor. I just get under the tractor and have someone to slowly fill it from the top and when it starts to come out put the plug back in quick. I have to do that on my 73 again since it mysteriously started leaking recently.

 

[dfrisk]

TONY - My Buddy has a Polaris 4-whlr, plus FOUR Victory M/C's. His oldest is a '99, then his wife has an '03 Vegas, then his '05 (I think) Arlen Ness signature Vegas, then his '11 or maybe '12 full dress tourer. Victory has treated him really well with updates for problems with high milage bikes, which none of his are.

I had bikes of one type or another since before I turned 14 yrs old. Couple I wish I still had, like my '73 OSSA 250 Six Day Replica I paid $100 for in '83. Hadn't run in at least 5 yrs when I bought it. Had it running in an hour or two. I made the mistake of checking evil-bay a couple years ago and found out it was worth at least $2000. I still have the Cycle magazine where they tested the 250 SDR, and mine had all their complaints fixed when I bought it.

ANYHOW.... back on topic about Cub Cadets. Plan for tomarrow includes starting the modifications to my second 38" deck. Making my second deck the same as my original deck for the 72. Cutting & welding the deck housing, installing new bigger baffles, gauge wheels frt & back, etc.

With the mods I make, mowing tall grass is easier, and windrowing clippings only happens when the grass gets over 8 inches high. Plus it works better with my lawn vac.

 

[rkelm]

Kevin, Thank you for the information, it is greatly appreciated. I havn't had time to really look at the machine but it is real solid. He said it had a roto tiller on it once upon a time is the reason for the creeper. What is the best fluid for this.

 

[thoffman]

I have ZERO attachment to this, but did you guys see the NOS hood for a 70/100 on sleeze pay?