• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through January 08, 2015

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bkattner

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 2, 2014
Messages
156
displayname
Brian Kattner
Don-
I have a smaller pulley and I believe it is a 34" belt! (5L340W)

My Napa had numerous lengths in stock- I have the OEM IH and I want to say it is about 2" longer? I can't recall now.

The Napa belt was about $17 if I remember.
 
My Napa price is $22.29 for the belt and they will have it in the am. That will give me time tonight to connect the led lights and power them. I will have my zipper for my door repaired and will be ready to through snow by the weekend. Then let it snow ! I hope the 15 hp diesel and the 42" with a speed up pulley will get it done this year. A dual stage for next winter if this is to slow .Looking on the web now for a cab heater lol.
 
Here's a quick question, to save me a trip out to the farm...are the 10hp, 12hp, and 14hp fuel tanks (on the NF tractors) the same dimensions?
 
Paul, no. The 10hp tank is smaller than the 12 and 14hp tanks. The 10hp used a 6.5 quart tank while the 12 and 14hp used an 8 quart tank.
 
Paul,

Quick answer...No.

(under edit) Quick...but not as quick as Kraig!

The 12hp and 14hp tanks are the same size.
The 10hp tank is smaller than the 12hp and 14hp tanks.
 
Paul, some comparison photos from the archives:

293260.jpg


10hp

293261.jpg


12hp and 14hp
 
I have been wondering about this. Say that the coil is bad on a Onan twin, could I use a coil of a KT17 in its place? I have spares for my KT17 but none for my Onan. Just wondering if I should get a spare or not. Thanks Jim
 
Jim H. - Save your money on coils. The coil for a KT-17 should work on the Onan, at least Dave Kirk sells the same coil for both. And you'll need all your pocket change for points and especially condensors. The p&c I bought last spring was over $60 with tax and shipping. And they only last 125 to 150 engine hours.
 
Doug B - glad to see you're not confused. Using it as a dozer blade I'd still try it with OUT locking the trip feature. Then if it trips a lot lock the trip and try. You'll need to get some real weight on the back end of the tractor for good traction unless you're pushing really light stuff.

Also, I hate to see you use it to push stuff into a burn pile IF the pile is burning - that is unless you're pushing an old JD unit into the fire!!!!

Kraig - Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos - Someone really did a heck of a nice job painting up that Kohler you show in the top pic below. Who might that artist be?
 
Harry B. how much weight do I need, The tires are loaded, and I've got 50lbs of weight. I've got more wheel weights I could add.
Most the time the pile won't be burnin, I got no JD,s to push in, maybe I could borrow the neighbors cr#psman
 
Doug B - with loaded tires it sounds about right. You'll just have to try it and see how it works.

And as for borrowing from your neighbor, I wouldn't recommend that. If you got a fire going he might be the one calling the fire dept about the size of the flamees after he realizes it's his cr#psman.
 
Hydro, that nicely redone K241 was done by a guy named Tom Buckland from Lansing, MI. Tom was a forum member back in January of 2002 when he posted that photo and a few others.
happy.gif


<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Tom Buckland (Tbuckland) on Monday, January 07, 2002 - 06:02 pm:

Hey Guys!

Thanks for all the positive feedback on the black block motor. I think I see the formula: Post Pic - Get praise. Hmmm, Lets do that again! Here's a couple more.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<font size="-1">Here's some more photos of Tom's engine.</font>

293273.jpg


293274.jpg
 
Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"

Testing your memory on this one ? back a few months i posted a picture of three sub frames that I have here . I wanted to know the correct one to fit my 125 mower deck . I have the cast deck with the large center blade .

If you can help I would be happy.
do to four computer crashes and pictures spread over 5 hard drives I have no clue where to look and want to use the 125 cutting grass this summer. I will need to paint the sub frame :
 
Don, your post with the three (actually four if you count the partial one) mower deck sub frames is in this ARCHIVED PAGE

Here's the photo, the sub frame that fits your 125 would be the one on the far right. The one that says "125" in marker:

293276.jpg
 
Thanks Kraig, I needed to be sure and I knew you could tell me. I will now dig it out and get it painted.
 
Kraig - Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos FOREVER - thanks for providing the info on Tom and posting the other pics. He certainly did a great job.

Don T - now that you know which one is the correct sub-frame, please don't just "get it painted" as you mentioned. What I liked about Tom's work in the pics posted by Kraig, is that there is no question everything was disassembled before it was painted. (It's obvious because the hardware items are not all painted over). I suggest you do the same with your sub-frame. This way you can make sure everything is in good condition. Things like the rods supporting the pulley brackets are not cracked and/or ready to break in half, the holes in the brackets themselves are not all ovaled, the little roll pins or cotter pins holding things together are not ready to crack off, etc. Complete disassembly also makes it easier to clean off the rust I see. Just my recommendations here, and when you're all done you can write "125" on the backside of the attachment bracket instead of the front side where it is now.
 
Don T.-

Wasn't it about this time last year when this 125 was the center of a few issues??? You've had ample time to get "the wifes" 125 operational. I agree with Hydro (imagine that) in that you should make everything as tight as possible. When I go through undercarriages/mule drives I weld up holes for resizing then just get and drill new rod. It does make a difference in operation to have everything tight.

I'm assuming you got the proper v/r on the 149 and it is now charging?

I got a kick out of the pic that had "125" right there on the mule drive that answered your question. Good find Kraig...I might have missed that one.
 
Wayne - you agreed with me!!!!! That's great. And I agree with you!!!

I'm guessing what Don may not have mentioned is those sub-frames are probably laying in the same place but all covered by snow - so he just wanted to know which one to dig out.
biggrin.gif
 
Back
Top