• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through January 08, 2014

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Thaks guys. Wont crack that Tube loose. looking for trouble. I will slide a big pan under the cover plate and crack the bolts loose. Supposed to be in the 40's this weekend. Now's the time to do it.
Dennis, that is why I'm taking the cover off. Below freezing the hydraulics wont work .. so I'm sure this Fluid is heavily contaminated. Not sure if ever this cover was removed and break in sliveres ever drained out so now that I have it, it will be done. Hopefully it will roll during the next snow without too much coaxing.

I was questioned on my 782 "Tony IH or CCC?" how would I know? Serial numbers? last digits 704866 I know there was a Pre 719999 line and post 720000 was that the line from IH to CCC?
 
Does the serial number tag say International Harvester Company, Chicago, IL????, or Cub Cadet Corporation, Cleveland, OH???? That's how you know.......
 
694248 was the last serial number IH produced and should be found on a 782
 
Oil... (I've stayed away from this discussion as long as I can)

My wifes car (not American made, and not MY first purchase choice...don't go there!) has a recommmended oil change interval of 15,000 miles. Yes, you read that correctly. 15,000 miles when using their factory branded synthetic oil! Prior to owning this vehicle, I've always been a dino-oil-guy who's changed oil religiously at 3,000 mile intervals. Because of that, I've split the difference and now change oil on this car every 7,500 miles using their factory brand 5W-30 synthetic.

Needless to say, this car has taken my previous notions of oil and turned it upside down. The vehicle now has 130,000 miles on it, starts fantastic in the -26deg we had on Monday, and doesn't smoke or make any funny noises. I've used the factory-branded oil as it's within a dollar of what I can buy Mobil 1 for locally, so I figure if we're not saving a ton of money, we might as well use their oil.

5 years ago if you would have told me that you run synthetic oil for 7,500 miles, I would have told you you're NUTS, but now I'm perfectly comfortable with that seeing as the factory says you can go twice that many miles before a change. I'm also now running synthetic in the Suburban with a 5,000mile change interval.

There is a guy at work who claims that his 200,000 mile Dodge neon doesn't get oil changes anymore. He bought it used with just over 100K, changed oil to synthetic, changed it again 5,000 miles later, and now just changes out the filter and refills it every 5,000 miles and has done so since the second oil change. To-each-their-own on that, but it's working for him and is a testament to synthetics.

So, what does this all have to do with IH Cub Cadets? Not much, I still run 30W dino oil in all of my Cubbies year around. They sit in a garage that's partially underground, (walkout) so most of the time the lowest temp they see is 35deg. The reason I use dino oil is because I like running 30WT and change it out quite often since these tractors don't run an oil filter.

Periscope down........
 
Art-
Much in the same way, I worked with an engineer that worked on the PowerStroke program and he was an advocate for about a 30,000 mile change. He advocated that the filter be changed every 10000 milee.

His theory (and supposedly common practice with some of eengineering for IHC engines) one of the hardest things on an engine is to open the crankcase and pour in a substance that hasn't been through the engine's filter yet. He also noted that as long as the filter isn't bypassing, an older filter has developed a "cake" that aides in catching particulates.

I don't prescribe to this, I used Rotella 10W30 in my 169, 2072, and pickup. I change oil every time I change an attachment on the 169, probably should do more than that in the 169 ... I get the equivalent oil change through the front seal regularly :)
 
HI ART! My commuter car has recommended 7500 mi. service intervals. Guys who actually run those intervals have all had to replace the oil filter/separator/breather assembly because a rubber diaphram ruptures and pressurizes the crankcase which tends to blow out things like frt & rear main seals, camshaft seals... makes a BIG mess when that happenes.

I try to do 5000 mi service intervals but sometimes get up to 5500, last one was almost 5700 mi. And I've NEVER had that rupture problem. Volvo even extended the warranty on that problem from 5 yrs 50,000 mi to 120,000 miles with no time limit. Some guys have had the problem 2-3 times.

Some auto MFG's have started recommending shorter service intervals now days. People tend to stretch them to the limit and then some, and warranty repairs increase costs to the MFG. I know Toyota & VW have done this.

Your co-worker's Neon sounds like my first car. Was only 3 yrs old when I got it, odometer showed 30,000 miles but speedo didn't work. Probably had more like 130,000 miles. The little 307 V8 was using about a quart of oil every 200-250 miles, then I ran a quart of Rislone thru it. Yes, it loosened up the rings, also destroyed what was left of the valve stem seals and ended up using a quart every 125-150 miles. I carried a case of 24 quart cans... yes, METAL cans, not just the top & bottom lids, in the trunk and added a quart of oil every $5-$7 worth of gas. Every six months or so I'd spin on a new oil filter and add another quart of oil. So yes, No oil changes needed there! It was burning the oil too, no leaks!

I talked to several different good mechanics and finally found one in my little home town of 100 people who said he could fix it. The Small Block Chevies just used a simple o-ring around the valve stem as a seal, and it could float up & down. My valve guides were loose, the mechanic said replacing the o-rings would problaby slow down the oil burning for a short while then start burning again. He was right. I drove over 650 miles without adding oil, then had to start adding again, ended up around 150 mi/quart.

On the other extreme, there's SON's truck, an '06 F150 w/3-vlave 5.4L V8. When he bought it 3-1/2rs ago, the dipstick was "stuck" in the tube. We managed to get it out breaking the dipstick and replaced it with a new one. He runs around 6000-8000 miles per oil change, puts seven quarts in, drains seven quarts out, NEVER checks the oil. Now we know why the dipstck was stuck!

Think I mentioned in a post here 2-3 weeks ago that CUMMINS recommends oil change intervals by the amount of oil an engine burns over so many miles. In an engine that has over $100 worth of filters plus eight to ten gallons of oil, an

oil change costs BIG bucks! But according to the engine manual for the VT-903 in my old White RoadBoss II, with only a quart of oil needed per 1000 miles, 10,000 mile service intervals were recommended. I did between 2500 and 3000 miles per week and added one, maybe two quarts per week. The co. would service my truck every six months if I bitched long enough. I really didn't care if they changed the oil & filters, but wanted them to grease the steering gear & frt axle so it steered easier! When I'd back it out of the shop, it was like the truck had power steering!

And yes, the old K-series singles use 1-1/2 quarts of oil, the Onan in the 982 uses 1-3/4 quarts but has a filter. The K-series get changed every 30 hours, the Onan every 50. Better to change the oil sooner than later.
 
Thank you for the oil video's very informative. Through all this discussion I am amazed that no one has brought up the fact that with the modern cars of today, and their roller lifters, our Kolhers do not posess.There is no longer a need for the high levels of ZDDP in the engine oils. In fact it clogs the catalitic converters. Our Kolhers don't have these either. Even the Rotilia has knocked back on it's anti wear ZDDP. My point, for our Kolhers,Use the correct weight oil for temp range it'll be operating in and add the correct amount of a ZDDP supplement. In my case it's been Rislone Zinc Treatment.
 
Quick question - what is the difference between a NF and WF manual PTO? I know you need a different tool to set them, but is the pulley diameter different? Different belt size? What changed that drove a different tool? Are they otherwise interchangeable between NF and WF tractors? The engine in my 109 and 126 are likely replacement engines and I've got a 14 hp engine from supposedly a 147 in the basement. I'm going to be doing some engine swapping around, but need to know the proper PTO arrangement for NF vs WF.
 
Bill Jamison
There is an adjustment tool for a wf and one for a nf ; I don`t use them anymore because I found if you can see three (3)_threads after the lock nut then It will be good for working . I don`t see why they arn`t interchangeable .Belt size would be the same on both for width .
 
I'm lost. We're talking the difference of a engine that is cooled by a radiator, air flow,and antifreeze coolant... verses... the air cooled engines in these tractors. The question I see being side-stepped... "Is car engine crankcase lubricant better than tractor manufacture's recommendation"? [and] " Does anyone offer a full synthetic for air cooled engines "? Though, I'll leave room for speculation, and go as far as to say the need for a air cooled engine oil is now obsolete to full synthetic?
 
Back
Top