• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through January 04, 2006

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
different subject, but...finally figured out how to reduce my photo's,and have a few questions regarding a swap meet find..i now have this snowblower, but cannot find any spec#'s on it..is it from a walk behind unit, or can it be mounted to a narrow or wide frame??..what am i missing, and where can i find one (if possible)?..thanks to all involved ..this site has given me many hours of enjoyment pursuing my new found hobby..many great idea's, from some very talented people..any help appreciated..

































33318.jpg
33319.jpg
33320.jpg
33321.jpg
 
Chris,

I don't know the model number of the unit you have, but it is definately from a walk behind thrower (2 stage)
 
ZZZZzzzzz..

Well, I finally am tearing into the cub. I haven't started it since April of 05, due to a couple of snapped off rearend bolts (the important ones that hold the tractor and rear together.) Needless to say, to get the rear out, ya gotta tear the whole thing apart.
33354.jpg


The rear axle seals were shot, and the engine was tired, and just plain fugly. soooo..
33355.jpg


The tunnel cover bolt holes were stripped, so in went the 'Riv-Nuts'.
33356.jpg


These things are amazing, instant threads.
33357.jpg

33358.jpg


In went the new K-321, which I've been holding on to for 22 years. The base is different from the cub block, but there was an adapter to be made. I used 0.062" aluminum, and made a plate to sandwich between the block and cub pan. The extra width fastened to the block with 2 aluminum bars to seal off the crankcase. A trip to the local NAPA store yielded 2 pan gaskets. The thin metal won't throw the alignment of the drive shaft out too much.
I had to tap the exising holes,

33359.jpg


Now for some fun, what's wrong with this picture?

33360.jpg


(It didn't go together like that, but knowing me, it could have)

33361.jpg


It's clearance in the frame

33362.jpg


I've got more to discuss tomorrow, same cub place, same cub time...
 
Scott: What are "Riv-nuts" that you used on your 149 and where did you get them? Thanks
 
FWIW- I was just over visiting a local die-casting shop last week to pick up a machine tool, and as I was walking by the packaging center, I saw four big caged-pallets of a popular aftermarket small engine piston-boxes. Coming out of the 2nd-operation line were conrods, cylinder heads, and blocks for (of all things) a very popular Asian-branded engine used in a popular line of green lawn-tractors. I'm sure I wasn't in southeast Asia at the time, and I didn't see any Asians on the line, but I did see twelve CNC machining centers feverishly working to put food on the dinnertable. I'm pretty sure every one of those machines had a union-card, but when I asked, they wouldn't answer.

Conferring with the production manager, I found that they make engine components for both OEM and aftermarket, with every part of the process being the same, with exception of the final dimensions- oversized pistons are larger.

While I wouldn't be the least bit suprised to see some other country-of-origin on a non-OEM replacement, I'll never make that assumption again.
 
It is nearly impossible to be certain as to who manufactures what these days. I worked one summer at a brake pad manufacturer. On my first day there I no less than a warehouse worth of brake pads that had been manufactured for a competing manufacturer; complete with the competitors logo stamped on the pads. And all summer long I saw brake pads renumbered and repackaged to fill orders for different retailers.
 
Marlin H, Myron B et al, Thanks for posting more info on the hydro Series 15U pump fluid. This has been a question since we brought home an AC/Simplicity hydro which looks like a 15U rotated 90 degrees, they are pretty clear on Dexron.

But, I would not put anything in a CC hydro except Hytran.

Bryan, I would hang out here more except for the lack of resources, mostly time.
lurking.gif
 
Scott T.
You could have cut down on the oil required if You would have left the plate whole, but it may have made a noise when you started it.

Thanks for the pictures, that is what I am probably going to have to do with my K341. Do you thing you could mount it in Quietline Rails or would they hit the edges of the block? I may have to put mine in a Wide frame if it will not go into the rails.
 
Richard C.
I think you win the what's wrong contest!!
biggrin.gif


As far as it fitting into a quietline, I couldn't even speculate....
 
Dave P. You are very welcome. Glad to help. It is neat working in the place that makes the 15U series. I have access to answer almost all of my numerous questions.
 
I don't want to start the great Hydro fluid discussion again, but this same hydro is used in Cub Cadets, John Deere's, and many more vehicles.

Your particular manual may recommend Hytran, John Deere All Weather Hydrostatic Fluid, Automatic Transmission Fluid Type F, etc, etc.

I have rebuilt quite a few hydro's now, both IH and JD and can verify they are rugged, probably more are destroyed by being dropped out of a pickup or trailer causing the hydro to go from standstill to max revolution destroying the pistons and slippers, than from normal use.

My recommendation for long hydro life is change the filter and fluid at regular intervals using the hydro fluid of your choice, and if you leave your tractor outside keep it covered. You won't believe how much water can get in the unit through the breather on the top of your rear end. If you don't believe me just wash your tractor and then remove the rear plate and see the fresh water in your fluid. (BTDT).

The other problems I have seen are the seals drying out after many years, and on some I see wear on the valve plates and slippers. I always figured the wear was caused by people not changing their fluids but since most of my tractors come from the North East I have some thoughts.

This is directly out of a Manual.

(IMPORTANT To prevent hydrostatic transmission damage during WINTER weather, Run engine until the hydraulic lift system functions before moving hydrostatic level from neutral position.

Extreme cold weather can cause charge pump cavitation for a short period of time. If the piston motor is put in stroke during this time, the slippers and the slipper retainer can be damaged.)

It would probably be a good idea if you live in a cold environment and need to use your Cub to have a magnetic heater and warm the hydraulic fluid up before each use.
 
Richard C. AMEN to what you just posted. Mainly it comes down to using common sense at ALL times. It is sad when someone will let their car or truck warm up thoroughly in cold weather before driving off and yet expect their Hydro garden tractor to move almost immediately.
 
Where can a person buy a magnetic heater at? Northern Hyd. don't carry them. (At least not here. Price?
 
Lyle, mine is a CarQuest brand.
NAPA

(Message edited by dschmidt on January 08, 2006)
 
Does anyone have info./opinions on what to replace my 16hp Briggs with in my 582? My 582 is my mower tractor and I would like to get it running as "good as new". I am thinking about trying to get a short block, but I am not sure yet if they are still available.
 
Todd S.

Kohler

KT17-II, Mag 18/Mag 20, 18/20 Command, they have all been successfully done with most all factory parts.

Honda

18hp from Small Engine Warehouse...they have a kit for the 682/782, only differences would be in some of the wiring and the driveline hookup (no big deal).
 
Dave K:
beerchug.gif


Scott T: Those 'Riv-Nuts' look slick!
Two holes for the tunnel cover on my 1450 were stripped...but I cheated... and tapped all 4 of them on out to 1/4"-20.
 
DAVE KAMP - Was that diecaster You were at located on River Drive in Moline? Back in '78 I used to get into their shipping dock from time-to-time when I was driving a big brown truck. Nice to see a local company compete successfully with a world-wide commodity like diecastings.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top