Archive through February 28, 2004

[aaytay]

I think it's either the Senate or the House, but I can't remember right now...

 

[wcompton]

Anyone know what size the many little holes are in the perforated cover for the narrow frame clutch assemblies?

 

[dcasey]

Hey, All-- I agree w/ the comments about the quality technical pics & information, lately. Keep up the good work!

Also, I wonder if anyone would care to give some feedback on any part that they would like to see go back into production, be it an engine part, handle grip, seal, or rubber part?

Thanks,
Dan

 

[kmcconaughey]

Gary S., thanks for the temp. gauge info and additional photo.

Doug, nice job on the 149!!!

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on March 01, 2004)

 

[till]

Wyatt,
I have one you can have when you pick up your parts.

 

[wcompton]

Tedd-
I've got a bunch too, I'm working on some #'s using the cover as material for something. <but I might take you up on one, I may need extra material

)

(Message edited by wcompton on March 01, 2004)

 

[jwinter]

I am installing a hydraulic lift on my 70 and I have instructions for installation on a 102,122.Are the instructions the same or different.

 

[dfrisk]

WYATT - Elwood's first FWA mounting bracket bolted to the side rails & front bolster of the tractor. Then there was an interim bracket that allowed for saddle tanks to be mounted, but only small ones. Then after the One Piece front bolster was released the FWA axle attached with the same pin the adj. front axle used. A normal fairly well equiped farm shop should have been able to go from the 2 WD configuration to FWA in 2 to 3 hours with any of the mounting systems. The later pin-on FWA should have been able to switch in maybe an hour. ELWOOD really pushed IH to try to install the FWA at the Factory but since IH spent the $$$$$ on the 2+2 That's what their Marketing pushed, Typical Buyers Guide had a whole section on 2+2's and one small picture of a FWA tractor. If an area had a wet spring or fall ELWOOD was swamped with orders by dealers & Farmers. Afterall Elwood was really just a local Welding shop, but a Darned GOOD one! ART - My one Boss from FARMALL got His picture on the cover of PURCHASING MAGAZINE 10-15 yrs ago, if I remember right He was Materials Mgr. at that DANA plant. To keep this CUB legal, Got some seat time on one this weekend. Played in the Mud filling ruts in the driveway! Hauled & burned trash, and Blew a tire on the cart about Noon Sunday! It was the "Good Tire" that never leaked down too, and the cart was empty, and on clean concrete. go Figure!

 

[wcompton]

OK, just because I've been thinking of it, and since Cub <Kubota> diesels use relatively little fuel. Anyone ever try making homebrew biodiesel for their 782D? I'm intrested in if the Kobota worked well with it. The Warden gave me permission that once I finished the project tractor I can get a 782D.

 

[till]

Diesel....

it gives you that smokey flavor.

 

[aka mike]

Just back from the IH winter convention in Fort Meade Florida at the Flywheelers Park. Was hoping to bring back some neat pictures of Cubs but I forgot my camera. Good thing the correct police wern't there, they all would've had heart failures seeing what some folks have done to their cubs. Did have a nice visit with the Professor. After he gets some Florida sunshine he's off to see a gentleman in Tenn.....

 

[mgonitzke]

Jim-

Before you replace the head gasket, make sure that the head is flat. I just finished correcting the flatness of the head on my 128. I used a piece of 220 grit(well at least I think it was 220, it might have been finer yet) on a 1/4in. piece of glass. Now I just have to reinstall the head. The service manual for my 128 says to soak the head gasket in water. Somewhere in that manual it also says you can check the head for flatness by placing it on 1/4" or thicker glass and using a .003" feeler gauge to check it for flatness by trying to find gaps between the head and the glass. Good luck!

And if I'm wrong, someone please correct me. After all, it's monday

 

[mgonitzke]

I should also add to torque the head bolts and capscrews correctly....my 128's were fingertight...

 

[jrichardson]

Doug Buckett Barnett, <wiping the drool off> AWESOME job on the 149! It sure looks good. I am going on leave next week for the arrival of our 4th. Since my mom is coming into town, I should have some time to stop on by.

Kraig, I will get some pics of the 125 later on. I really enjoyed working on it. I hope that it roars to life here soon... Then after that one, I have an Original that needs to be put back together and then another 125 and a future "16"9 project for my other friend. Then I want to finish up the 123, and get the rest of my Original done.

 

[mbounds]

Matt G: Technology changes things!! Old style headgaskets, in use at the time of the original printing of your manual, apparently could benefit from soaking. HOWEVER, 'tis now 2004 & current headgaskets need no such soaking. Might even do 'em some harm for all I know. Install modern headgaskets dry. Torque correctly in proper sequence & then after engine is hot - RETORQUE in proper sequence while engine is still hot. You will be surprised how much more the bolts turn.
Myron B

 

[sleggett]

Jim, I found one of my copies of the de-carboning from David Kirk-11:42pm may 15, 1998 EST [post#341 of 361],The voyager day's-this post explains de-carbonization of the head and piston. If you searched the archives maybe that'll help-or someone else might be able to post that post here for everyone-good luck!!

 

[lbaker]

Jeff- Speaking of completing your original, I had a pretty good week end. Now have 3 awaiting a rebuild job.

 

[kmorrow]

Kraig, no hurry. You can just let me know when you get ready for the stuff. I was mostly curious to know if you had told me you were ready for it and I got it ready to go and then forgot to send it, as my memory isn't what it used to be. Barring theft, fire, or falling into the hands of my destructive 2-year-old daughter, it'll still be here when you're ready for it.

 

[rdehli]

Got a question for the experts my 123 is in pieces in the shed, and my hydro release lever is broke under the seat rails ...any ideas on relocating the darn thing or putting a different style in its place thanks Rob

 

[rdehli]

Also on my k-301 I have a question The 5 studs that go into the head, do you guys sugest lock tight or what to hold them in , and keep them tight if you have to take the nuts off? thanks Rob