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Archive through February 26, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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mmasheris

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Michael A.Masheris
If you have welding skills weld a 1/2"-13 nut to the top of the bolt welding plus extra grip will break it loose if all else fails drill it out and re tap it.
 
Lewis,
I'm pretty sure the nuts were welded on at the factory. The line men weren't able to tell a 102 for a 122 at that point of the line. I'm betting that some P.O. cut/ground/cracked off the nuts and replace them with unwelded nuts.
 
The 102-125 did not have welded nuts on them.
The three 125's I have are not welded.The later models welded their nuts on..

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Lewis, I don't suppose that cab of yours has a parts diagram/assembly guide or other paper work you could copy and send to me? I have no idea how the front would be fastened to the tractor. I'm guessing some sort of uprights fastened to the front step plate screws or the side of the frame using existing holes.

What ever it takes I'm sure I can fab it up.

Michael M Thanks for the tip on the blower! It confirms my suspicions that itb was for a "lawn mower" Looks like it will be relegated to th scrap heap.

Dave S
 
Harry B - quick question:

You mentioned in an earlier post that one of the things you liked about the 126 vs the 122 was that the 126 had an amp meter whereas the 122 did not.

My question is - why an amp meter? Wouldn't a volt meter be better (or even better both)? Is the presence of an amp meter vs a volt meter due to the S/G configuration?
 
Bill J.: Harry may be preparing an answer independently, but I think some of the reasons they supplied the ammeter is because (1) at that time automobile gauges supplied an ammeter to answer the question, "is the charging system working?" The ammeter answers that question unequivocally. Later on, automobiles switched to the voltmeter for their gauge sets because it was easier to integrate and (2) because of the use of an alternator to produce the charging current. But the ammeter is really the best indicator of charging, as it indicates both whether the current is positive or negative in relation to ground, as well as displaying the amount of current flowing in the system so that you get some indication of the battery's health too. The voltmeter will tell you if the charging system is "on," but it won't tell you how hard it's working; the ammeter will.

Those are my thoughts, anyway: good question.
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One of the reasons the auto industry moved away from amp meters was safety! As charging systems got more powerful, now in excess of 100 amps, it became dangerous to have wires in the dash carrying that large current to provide an easy indication of that system. So they moved to a voltmeter.

A fully charged battery / system should maintain between 13.8 & 14.2 volts. Under or over that could indicate a problem.

A fully charged battery won't require much amperage to recharge so the indicator would be / could be almost neutral, if the scale was up to 100 amps, it would be very hard to see any movement, or you'd need a digital mter.
 
Bill J, Jeremiah and Mike - hey thanks for posting the details on the Amp vs Volt gauge. For me, well you probably guessed it - some gauge is better than no gauge. Also, to expound - IH didn't have a volt gauge for Cub Cadets at the time so I certainly wouldn't recommend it. OEM parts for me, especially if they have an IH emblem in the middle!!!!!
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Bill, Mike Harry, and Jeremiah,

Thanks so much for both the questions and the answers concerning the Ampere gauge. I have been wondering the difference and the question as well.

What I fail to understand is why IH didn't use the gauges with the IH emblem on there Quietline series, when both the Maintenance Minder hour meter and Ampere gauge had the IH logo in the 1x8-9 series. At least most of the 1x8-9 tractors had the IH logo. I wonder why they stopped using the logo gauges. It is getting harder to find the IH logo on replacement gauges.
 
Hello all. Getting ready to install the head on the k321 out of my 147. Engine was apart when I bot it and don't know which holes the various bolts and spacers go in. Was hoping someone might have a close up picture to go by? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
 
DonT... yeah but I like that hitch setup, thats the dual hitch from Aaron. Also I specifically built that cart to place a lot of weight on the back tires, else no way I could pull 1,000 lbs uphill with 2wd! Its a delicate balance though, being able to place as much weight as possible on the drive tires without the front end getting to light.

The way I built the trailer I can slide the axle wherever I want - just need to drill 2 holes each side to bolt it on. I could easily take weight off the hitch. I'm still using my first guess, which is nearly as far rearward as possible, and well I think with a bumper and battery relocation that it might be perfect, as it stands right now its fine for everything but the big hill in the back.
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>


By Donald Tanner (Dtanner) on Sunday, February 24, 2013 - 09:27 pm:

Tristan Stewart
I missed that you are using a three point to support the tongue on your tractor. The weight back that far if you have much weight in your trailer will lift the front wheels. Aaron sell a trailer bracket that would move that tongue weight closer to the tractor and that would help with the light front end.

Off topic warning !!!!

I had that problem with trailer weight hauling the trailer from my Cat O . so I bought the hitch from Aaron that attaches to the cat O and that could move the ball ahead 8" or more. He does do real nice metal work on the Cub parts he makes.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
 
Want to clarify my earlier question about head bolts. What I have for the k321 is a bag containing both stud and bolts as well as the spacers and washers. I suppose I could just go with all new studs but still not sure about the various spacers. Thanks
 
Terry no picture but I believe the studs go in holes 8 and 6 and theses two get the spacers the rest get bolts.
 
Brian W - I believe the 1st couple years of the QL series IH did still have the Amp and Hour Meter gauges with the IH logo. Don't know why they changed it.

Terry - wait for Do-Dah's scan. The bolts mostly go with the tin shield that is a sort of extension to the shroud. It has holes in it so you can see and retorque these head bolts. The studs and spacers mostly go where the heat shield gets installed. There might be one or 2 odd ones so it's best to wait for Do-Dah's scan. (What I mean is I think the heat shield hides 1 or 2 of the head bolts so when you retorque the head after running it and letting it cool, you may have to remove the heat shield to get at all the bolts.)
 
Harry,
Do Dah Lew is scanning the Curtis cab.

Terry D,
There are 5 studs 3 hold the tank on #5, 2, and 6.It is installed,washer, nut, spacer and tank bracket.A jam nut holds on the bracket.
#1,and 7 are studs that hold on the heat shield on, washer,nut, spacer shield and nut.The rest are 1 1/2" grade 8 bolts with washers I do believe.
 
Lewis-

The 147 has grade 5 head bolts? I thought they were all grade 8 including the studs.

I didn't know that. Are head bolt grades covered in the manual?
 
Wayne.
It has been corrected .Which manual do you speak of?
Just tore down a k 321 yesterday the bolts looked like em.
Gotta use them specs a little more.
 
Do-Dah - thanks for picking up the error of my ways. And thanks for noting the stud/bolt locations. I guess my memory was slippin and I was think of the engines in the W/F's. Forgot about the gas tank mount used with the N/F's.
 
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