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J
jblackwelder
Guest
S
still gt pulling with my turbo diesel 1782
Guest
I was just checking to see if anyone could post a pic or two of the hydraulic angling kit on an IHCC front blade. I need to see the pics to get a better idea of installing one. Thank you!
Jim D,
Charles; mating a 3208 to an SGT is easy... you'll need jackstands under the frame... Permanently...
As for 'purring'... I don't think ANY Rudolf-cycle fits that description. I'm thinking that's more down the description of perhaps a Merlin... or a Pratt-Whitney PT-6... that is... if your kitty carries an 1800hp hair-dryer...
As for 'purring'... I don't think ANY Rudolf-cycle fits that description. I'm thinking that's more down the description of perhaps a Merlin... or a Pratt-Whitney PT-6... that is... if your kitty carries an 1800hp hair-dryer...
J
jpierce
Guest
GLADE someone can read my wrighting . Yes Daves got it on the 1650. Never worked on cubs.I have a tractor that is shaft drive but it,s a Economy jim/dandy knot like cubs.I got some of the parts. some on back order. I will strat tairdown tomorow. Will need all the help i can get.
The pump is a standard SAE A 2-bolt mount Sundstrand TK19.2, with a 5/8 keyway shaft, a #12 inlet port, a #6 3gpm priority port, and a #8 6gpm auxiliary port. It rotates counterclockwise, and carries the Surplus Center part # 9-2027D.
I messed around with several different mounting locations and configurations, and the best overall location for mounting the pump came out to be on the right-hand side of the engine, right alongside the starter and ignition coil. Note that my original plan was to mount the pump so that it protruded THROUGH the grille. I decided against this because the plumbing was so much simpler, and the pump wasn't out where the loader bucket could lose something and break the pump loose.
To mount it, I started by taking some parts of an electric clutch (Thanks Keith!) and laying out the engine face's bolt-pattern on a cardboard box. Then I made a rough measurement of the pump shaft's location with respect to the crankshaft. With drafting tools, I located the center of the engine's output shaft...
...then transferred the rest of the measurements to cardboard
...Then did a test check, cut out the holes, placed the pattern ON the engine (using clutch bolts!) for a test fit.
...Then made some 'adjustments' to the final position with razor-knife and a roll of 'anti-gravity'...
...Then I took the data, and my pattern inside, and drew up this scale drawing.
<center><table border=1><tr><td>
pumpbracket.pdf
pumpbracket.pdf (9.0 k)</td></tr></table></center>
Tomorrow, I'll stop by the scrapyard for a piece of 0.250" steel plate, and I'll carry along the CAD file and see if I can find a shop that'll laser-cut the plate for a decent price. If not, I'll drill and torch-cut the worst of it, and finish the job with a bandsaw and disc-grinder.
I messed around with several different mounting locations and configurations, and the best overall location for mounting the pump came out to be on the right-hand side of the engine, right alongside the starter and ignition coil. Note that my original plan was to mount the pump so that it protruded THROUGH the grille. I decided against this because the plumbing was so much simpler, and the pump wasn't out where the loader bucket could lose something and break the pump loose.
To mount it, I started by taking some parts of an electric clutch (Thanks Keith!) and laying out the engine face's bolt-pattern on a cardboard box. Then I made a rough measurement of the pump shaft's location with respect to the crankshaft. With drafting tools, I located the center of the engine's output shaft...
...then transferred the rest of the measurements to cardboard
...Then did a test check, cut out the holes, placed the pattern ON the engine (using clutch bolts!) for a test fit.
...Then made some 'adjustments' to the final position with razor-knife and a roll of 'anti-gravity'...
...Then I took the data, and my pattern inside, and drew up this scale drawing.
<center><table border=1><tr><td>
pumpbracket.pdf (9.0 k)</td></tr></table></center>
Tomorrow, I'll stop by the scrapyard for a piece of 0.250" steel plate, and I'll carry along the CAD file and see if I can find a shop that'll laser-cut the plate for a decent price. If not, I'll drill and torch-cut the worst of it, and finish the job with a bandsaw and disc-grinder.
S
still gt pulling with my turbo diesel 1782
Guest
Charlie,Thank you for the help with the blade info and pics!!
CHARLES - You wouldn't like diesel smoke real well if You were in My shop on a cold day and I started My PSD. Since the Kitty-Cat died last winter is smokes almost as much as the old 903 Cum-a-part powered semi tractor I used to drive. WYATT - On that orange oil-field engine I could help You fit that in Your Wheatland, but We'd have to work on it Outside the shop..... Since the Engine wouldn't FIT in My SHOP ;-) Last couple days the frost has left the ground in front of the shop. I make ruts 6" deep driving into/out of the shop. I haven't got stuck yet, but it Could happen!
Hydro leak,
How much is to much? I am loosing about 1 teaspoon a day sitting still. Should I park it untill I get it repaired? How will I know if the Fluid gets to low while I am using the machine and is it to late to repair then? It looks like the leak is around the body of the Pump, perhaps an "O" ring, Is this a big deal?
Thanks guy,
Herb
How much is to much? I am loosing about 1 teaspoon a day sitting still. Should I park it untill I get it repaired? How will I know if the Fluid gets to low while I am using the machine and is it to late to repair then? It looks like the leak is around the body of the Pump, perhaps an "O" ring, Is this a big deal?
Thanks guy,
Herb
