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Archive through February 25, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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"Yeah, sure. I got run over by a lawnmower. Good one, you are the FIRST one to ever say that. Stupid dog."
 
PSA. I priced a Kohler Command 27HP w/EFI today...$2600...so if I swap out the M18 in the 1872 due to damage, it will probably be Command 25 @ $1400.

I could get a 30hp Turbo Diesel Kubota for less than $2600....hmmmm....
happy.gif
 
Charlie
Thanks for the diagram.
I never had a parts diagram for the disks I got from you, at least I don't rember haveing one, and there is not one in my Cub book.
Last year when I was prepareing my garden spot for this year I ran into a few rocks and bent over a couple disk blades and one split into.

Seem that after talking to my dad about all the rocks in the field, he said he never picked rocks off the field , just rolled them back into the ground so they would not interfeer with the machinery.

(Message edited by lbuttke on February 25, 2004)
 
I tried the oxy-acetaline on the turn buckle again today, got the parts red hot, to the point of being soft, and was able to dissasemble it, hopefully I will be able to salvage the parts.
 
Lonny,
There a guy on ebay sellin what ya need, and no it's not me!
CLICK HERE

Oh yea Lonny, I don't think those Brinly disk were made to handle 400 pounds of extra weight either, LOL

(Message edited by cProctor on February 25, 2004)
 
Ryan-
If'n ya need a "trash can" for that M18, my F250 will do it for you
happy.gif
If I have good success with the engine I have I'd like to try a boxer engine for an '82 series tractor.


And as promised-
The steering setup for my project tractor. Inside the cap is a std wheel bearing. The cap normally has a concave to it to keep a plastic bushing centered/retained. I pressed it flat and put it on as a bearing retainer. My other option would have been to clamp the tube somehow, because this uses (modified) stock parts I thought this would be a little more elegant.
16177.jpg

16178.jpg
 
It was only an extra 180 pounds on each disk gang and my cub 102 had to truble pulling it, just a bit hard to steer around the ends of the field, seems the front was a bit lite hooked to the disk and 360lbs dead weight.
 
drive trane on 1650 new back rail and motor mounts this is my cub for my collction the tractor runs great but as viberationwill these parts fix it after pulling the driveshaft does it have to be put back in a partitler way i know that bolens driveshaft helps in the balancebeteen motor and transmisson does the cub do this to the rubber disk that hooks the driveshat to the motor look like the back ones the front disk is egg shaped and the back ones are round i have ordered new ones upon changing the hydo fluid a good look inside everthing looked clean no metdal shavings good little tractor going to be puting 3 point on thanks and happy cubing
 
drive trane on 1650 new back rail and motor mounts this is my cub for my collction the tractor runs great but as viberationwill these parts fix it after pulling the driveshaft does it have to be put back in a partitler way i know that bolens driveshaft helps in the balancebeteen motor and transmisson does the cub do this to the rubber disk that hooks the driveshat to the motor look like the back ones the front disk is egg shaped and the back ones are round i have ordered new ones upon changing the hydo fluid a good look inside everthing looked clean no metdal shavings good little tractor going to be puting 3 point on thanks and happy cubing
 
More than likely you have tightened the new rubber mounts down to tight. Most guys leave 1 to 3 threads showin and that smooths things up.
You got any pics of the mods you made?
 
Hey!
New member here. I have inherited a Model 1100 (Along with 2'A's and 1 'B'). I did not realize till after requesting membership that you all don't get into the 1100 due to the fact it was built of a lesser quality. I am a bit lost as to what to do? I am having some issues with it (Dads maintenace schedule was not existent for several years) and if not at this forum, would there be another?
Many thanks, Jeff
 
Hi James!

After reading your post, I've added punctuation capitalization, and a little editing, to yield what I think you were trying to convey... please correct me if I misinterpreted it anywhere;

------------

My 1650 has a new back rail and motor mounts. This is the cub for my collection

--->meaning, you have other tractors, but this is your only cub?

--I'm not sure what the 'back rail' refers to (somebody help me out here). I'm 'motor-mounts' refers to the "Iso-Mount" cone-and-cap bushings that go between the engine cradle and frame. If you have the Iso-Mounts too tight, you'll get a bit more vibration transmitted through to the frame...

The tractor runs great, but has vibration problems- will these parts fix it?

--->which parts- the rail and motor mounts, or something you saw posted on the forum? Bad motor mounts or broken frame members will cause all sorts of interesting things to happen. I'm not sure what type of vibrations you're experiencing... but problems in the driveline or engine mounts can either CAUSE vibration, or cause it to be much more noticeable...

After pulling the driveshaft does it have to be put back in any particular way? I know that Bolens uses a balancing-driveshaft that must be installed in a certain orientation. Does the cub do this?

--->No Cubs that I've worked on used any sort of 'balancing weights' on the driveline. All the engines used on Cub Cadets are internally-balanced, as are the transaxles, so a symmetrical, centrally-balanced shaft is all that's used. I don't think there's any way you can install the shaft 'wrong'. If you have the shaft out, roll it along the edge of a flat table, and see if it 'bounces' as it rolls- the telltale sign of a bent shaft... if it's bent, either straighten it (if you're really good) or replace it (if you're not!).

Regarding the rubber disk that hooks the driveshaft to the motor- the front disk is egg shaped and the back ones are round? I have ordered new ones...

--->Depending on which model/year, that could be correct. Earlier Cub hydros had a solid pin/slot type coupler at the engine, and an elastic disk ('rag-joint') at the hydro input-shaft. Later models (your 1650, for instance) had an oblong-shaped rag-joint on the engine coupler.

I changed the hydo fluid, and while doing so, I took a good look inside. Everthing looked clean no metal shavings...

---That's a very good sign!

It's a good little tractor- I'll be putting a 3-point hitch on it!

---Congratulations on joining the Cub ranks!

-----------
Is my translation correct?
 
Ryan M,

If you are in a swapping mood for a diesel, you can get a 23.5 hp Perkins from the Surplus Center in Nebraska for $1695. I think I saw some mention that they are painting some model of Perkins CAT yellow and putting them into a new CC model.

Jim E
 
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