Archive through February 24, 2004

[bmcmeen]

Herbert G. -

Just checking - did you reassemble the governor linkages per the manual? You can download the Kohler manual for free from www.kohlerengines.com

Wyatt -

Standards are a GOOD thing. That's why there's so many!

Obviously, there's no reason at all that ASE standards should have to apply outside our borders...

 

[wdeturck]

Here is the information on the IH show in Auburn, IN which I will be attending on Saturday March 20, 2004 after I pickup the M&W in IL.

I will be in the Chicago Area at Mike Masheris's overnight on Friday the 19th of March if you want to have a little get together. E-mail or call me 412-828-8072 for info.

 

[wcompton]

Bryan-
Did you happen to get the instructions to your Noise Supression Kit? I found mine last night with my NOS parts box in the garage.

Kraig, Dave-
I just remembered I forgot to take that picture last night, my bad.

 

[bmcmeen]

Wyatt -

Yes I did - I sent a PDF of it to Kraig for his next CD.

Unless your copy is in better shape, then maybe you should send Kraig a copy of yours...

 

[kmcconaughey]

Dave K2., great photos and project!!!!

Tedd, I hope you're not going to cut that with an arm powered hacksaw! )

 

[dkamp]

Hi Aaytay! Standing there LOOKING at it, it doesn't visually appear to be any off-angle, but there is just a slight bit. Once I get a fan (this weekend), and a pair of pins made for the yokes, I'll assemble it the rest of the way, and mark the U-joint to see if I can show how much.

The engine moves a little bit on QL mounts, and the CC frame flexes under torque, ground-support, and workload changes... and it flexes a WHOLE LOT if the transaxle's two support support bolts aren't tight.

DK

 

[kmcconaughey]

Richard C., this old post By Ted Shushereba (Master scribe...Keeper of the Scrolls) (Tshushereba) posted on Thursday, June 17, 1999 might be helpful:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Hi Don and Harry-

When I started to work on my first original I had a roll pin that was partially broken, and had to repair it. On my second tractor, I decided to take some pictures of the repair.

The pin inside is a roll pin, the one outside is a tapered pin-so be careful abour which way you remove it. After I removed the tapered pin, I took a small "C" clamp and put it inside the "H" pattern. Then I took a block of wood and a brake adjusting tool to put some force on the cup, then used a ball pien hammer to tap around the cup to force it loose. The cup is hardened, so you won't hurt it if you are careful. It also only goes back one way, so make sure you reinstall it correctly. Neither of mine were tack welded.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[sblunier]

Kraig,

I have made repairs using Tedd's method...it works well!!!!!

 

[thoffman]

Dave Kamp,
GREAT picture or your "fixes"!! Keep it up. "A picture is worth a thousand word" is true.

 

[rchristensen]

Todd M and Kraig
Thanks for the input on the shift lever removal. Was just heading out to try removing it. Was going to clamp the cup at the flat spots on both sides of the cup in my vise and try prying up on the main assembly. Will see if I have a small C clamp and try that procedure first. Luck must have been with me yesterday when I drove the outside pin out as it came right out so I must have been pressing it the right way.

Posted in 1999??? Kraig you have one great memory.

 

[aaytay]

Richard-
Just don't let Ryan Mull help you do that fix while at a Plow Day. He'll drop a lockwasher into the soybean stubble and it will be lost forever!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Richard C., maybe, but mostly it's just a good archive system, if I do say so myself.

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on February 25, 2004)

 

[till]

Kraig,

Nope, I will let the welder have his way with the frames. That way he can't blame me for a bad cut.

 

[cubconnection]

William, I was thinking you said your little Giant was older then ours. Yours seams to be built alot heavier then the later ones like we have. It is probably like everything else they cheapend them up to save money. Yours apears to be a lot closer match for the original then the latter ones, of course ours is not original and is missing some parts.

 

[wcompton]

FWIW-
You guys with the "fast" 19-tooth second gear that want to take a step back but don't want to run the "slow" 16-tooth second gear, there's a fella on Epay, wildcats7124, that's parting a Farmall Cub with what looks like a 17T second gear, the internals are in 2 seperate auctions so make sure you buy right.

If I remember right it's the same gearing as inside the QL gear drives like the 800, 1000, and 1200.

 

[rmull]

Art- I don't know what you are talking about...I am sure there is photo and video evidence that I didn't drop that...

..(<font size="-2">or not..</font>) Need some help Richard? Does AZ even have bean stubble..and it was in the grass next to the drive by the way!

Wyatt- I think there was a mix in the QL trannys...I have a 1200 tranny in my plow tractor and am sure it is the 16T 2nd, but Keith has a 19T 2nd in his 1000...I think mine is an early model and his a late one.

 

[bmcmeen]

Wyatt/Ryan -

The "official" serial number breakdowns of which tractor got which 2nd gear are in the parts books.

Rob Houtz (one of our sponsors) and I went thru the books (OK, Part Smart, actually) looking at that very information just last Saturday...

Of course, who knows what the PO's did to your trannys

 

[kmcconaughey]

 

[aaytay]

 

[jpierson]

Looks like your busted Ryan! hehehe