Ryan M,
My guess is that cylinder hydrauliced slightly and the head gasket blew. The squeak is leaking combustion gasses.
My guess is that cylinder hydrauliced slightly and the head gasket blew. The squeak is leaking combustion gasses.
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Archive through February 24, 2004
- Thread starter wcompton
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
C
cubconnection
Guest
That tractor on Ebay is a Wagner probably a little Gient model. wagner sold to another company later in the early 60s and the name changed dont remeber what it was. We have one out in the barn, we had it before we knoew what it was and have it painted and looking like a little 560. They are a neat little tractor, but are not built 1/2 as good as the original, and it is very good that IH did not go with the little giant by wagner, and instead decided to design and build the Original, if not IH Cub Cadets would not be what they are today, most would be long gone. Willaim Deturk also has a very nice original Wagner little Giant, hope he brings it to the Auburn show next month.
F
farmall gray
Guest
Richard C,
You are really making me work the old brain to remember this. That cup with the H slot is pressed in. It shouldn't take too much to pop it out. Try tapping on either side alternatly. Or try prying it out. If you have the pin out of the top, the cup and lever should pull out the bottom
then.
Ryan,
When you rebuild the carb, check the fuel pump too. I worked one one that got water in the fuel pump and rusted the disc in the diaphragm. Since the filter is before the pump, the rust got in to the carb. The rust held the float valve open and it filled the crankcase with gas. On your wheezing sound; check to make sure the nuts that hold the cylinder to the crankcase are tight too.
I have seen them come loose for no apparent reason.
You are really making me work the old brain to remember this. That cup with the H slot is pressed in. It shouldn't take too much to pop it out. Try tapping on either side alternatly. Or try prying it out. If you have the pin out of the top, the cup and lever should pull out the bottom
then.
Ryan,
When you rebuild the carb, check the fuel pump too. I worked one one that got water in the fuel pump and rusted the disc in the diaphragm. Since the filter is before the pump, the rust got in to the carb. The rust held the float valve open and it filled the crankcase with gas. On your wheezing sound; check to make sure the nuts that hold the cylinder to the crankcase are tight too.
I have seen them come loose for no apparent reason.
Digger>
I know PB Blaster works great an most rusted bolts but I dont think it is going to help this time. It is hadr to tell where the metal ends and the rust starts. Sort of looks like a rusted bolt that has been in a gravel pit for 5 years. If my computer allowed me to post pic's here I would post a pic of it tommrow so you could see what I mean.
The Brinly web site is some what helpfull but I need the part numbers for the entire turnbuckle befor I can order it, I tired ordering a point for my 10" plow and without the part number the phone operator was unable to help me.
I know what to do if spring plow day get here befor I get this plow ready,toss old plow and buy new plow from local box store.
I know PB Blaster works great an most rusted bolts but I dont think it is going to help this time. It is hadr to tell where the metal ends and the rust starts. Sort of looks like a rusted bolt that has been in a gravel pit for 5 years. If my computer allowed me to post pic's here I would post a pic of it tommrow so you could see what I mean.
The Brinly web site is some what helpfull but I need the part numbers for the entire turnbuckle befor I can order it, I tired ordering a point for my 10" plow and without the part number the phone operator was unable to help me.
I know what to do if spring plow day get here befor I get this plow ready,toss old plow and buy new plow from local box store.
Lonny,
If ya can't read these email me and I'll send'um to ya. I can reply to ya but can't email you direct, kinda like someone else on here, Grrrrrrr
Your IP doesn't like mine!
If ya can't read these email me and I'll send'um to ya. I can reply to ya but can't email you direct, kinda like someone else on here, Grrrrrrr
Your IP doesn't like mine!
W
wdeturck
Guest
That is a Wagner Iron Works "Little Giant". I don't think it's 50 years old I haven't been able to date mine but mine is differen't then most I have seen including Cub Connections. Except for the steering and being a true belt drive mine is as well made as an Original. All I have seen have a one piece fender and mine has welded 2 piece fenders. My snow mounts different than that blue one.
and Here is Cub Connections
and Here is Cub Connections
jrichardson
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2009
- Messages
- 211
- displayname
- jason richardson
Jon Winter,
The rear PTO will not run a tiller. It rotates backwards, and is WAY to slow (RPM) to do anything. There was a gear box that you could buy (very rare) that allowed them to go in the proper direction.
The rear PTO will not run a tiller. It rotates backwards, and is WAY to slow (RPM) to do anything. There was a gear box that you could buy (very rare) that allowed them to go in the proper direction.
W
wdeturck
Guest
John W.: The tller runs off a belt driven angle drive mounted on the reat of the tractor. The only thing I ever see on a rear PTO is the Cub flat belt pulley. I can find no equipment for a rear PTO. Cub Connections did make a pull behind deck(an Original square end) that was driven from the rear PTO.
Hey Colin- You could soak 'em in Cider... mebbie even Milwaukee's Beast. Dunno why, but I've always had best luck with Apple Cider Vinegar... I started using the Vinegar trick several years ago, when facing the prospect of losing a perfectly-good, but hard-to-replace outdrive housing to a corroded-in bearing race. Since then, I've used white and red vinegar. Apparently, the vinegar's acetic acid content breaks down enough corrosion and crud from pitted aluminum enough for the bearing to have a respectable exit-path.
There's one other thing which I use more in restoring old ham/military-radio mechanicals, clock parts, and other small doo-dads ... the ultrasonic jewelry-washer. If you have a small part that's siezed together, pouring vinegar into the ultrasonic washer and dunking the parts for a good-long-time will oftentimes break up any corrosion and saponified grease, leaving you with free-moving parts. It's purely magic...
There's one other thing which I use more in restoring old ham/military-radio mechanicals, clock parts, and other small doo-dads ... the ultrasonic jewelry-washer. If you have a small part that's siezed together, pouring vinegar into the ultrasonic washer and dunking the parts for a good-long-time will oftentimes break up any corrosion and saponified grease, leaving you with free-moving parts. It's purely magic...
areinholtz
Member
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- Feb 13, 2004
- Messages
- 10
- displayname
- Art Reinholtz
How much weight will the Hydralic Lift on a 149 pick up? Like a 40 inch Yard Aerator, plus 125 pounds
Tedd:
NASCAR engines make about 800 hp. We have calculated the HP of a Top Fuel Dragster last year to be almost 8000 HP. Yes I said 8000 hp.
That takes 10 NASCAR engines to get even close.
Not sure if it is not more now with the new setback blower technology. 4.514 for pole so far at Winters. Think if you poured some 90 proof in a cub it would produce such awome hp?
NASCAR engines make about 800 hp. We have calculated the HP of a Top Fuel Dragster last year to be almost 8000 HP. Yes I said 8000 hp.
That takes 10 NASCAR engines to get even close.
Not sure if it is not more now with the new setback blower technology. 4.514 for pole so far at Winters. Think if you poured some 90 proof in a cub it would produce such awome hp?
Tonight's progress; Homemade driveshaft.
Had a CC driveshaft ready to put in, and noticed that the welded-side of the rag-joint was bent, and the launch-pin was very worn on one side. I spent a little while trying to tweak it back in line, and after spinning it, decided that even bent closer-to-square, it just wasn't going to run very true. Didn't have another one at my immediate disposal, and being the impatient candle-burner I am, I made a new one.
I grabbed a piece of 5/8" shaft stock, chucked it into the lathe, and turned the end down to create the 'anti-launch pin' segment which engages the centering hole of the rag-joint.
My first thought was to just make another steel plate, and drill it with three holes, then weld it onto my new shaft like the original, but decided that the reason why the factory shaft wasn't running true, was because the welding process pulled it out-of-square. Instead, I found that I had an extra rag-joint receptacle. I slipped it over the turned end...
And compared it to the hopeless-case...
Much better!
Now, in the stock arrangement, it's quite a task to get the shaft to go into, and out of the tractor. I want to be able to do it without having to disassemble the whole world... fortunately, there's quite a bit of depth to my U-joint configuration. So I run the shaft from the engine compartment, around the (hydraulic!) steering column, past the lift-cylinder, and into the U-joint yoke.
Notice- the shaft is fully bottomed against the U-joint's X-piece, but the front is well-clear of the rag joint- Plenty of room to install/remove the shaft. Notice- the U-joint's grease fitting is on the AFT side of the X-piece- this allows lots of space for the shaft to retract for launch-pin clearance.
But when I slide the shaft's anti-launch pin into the engine-coupler's receptacle and seat it down, the other end winds up flush with the inner face of the yoke. PERFECT!
And the answer you've all been waiting for... (or mebbie not)... the dimensions;
Had a CC driveshaft ready to put in, and noticed that the welded-side of the rag-joint was bent, and the launch-pin was very worn on one side. I spent a little while trying to tweak it back in line, and after spinning it, decided that even bent closer-to-square, it just wasn't going to run very true. Didn't have another one at my immediate disposal, and being the impatient candle-burner I am, I made a new one.
I grabbed a piece of 5/8" shaft stock, chucked it into the lathe, and turned the end down to create the 'anti-launch pin' segment which engages the centering hole of the rag-joint.
My first thought was to just make another steel plate, and drill it with three holes, then weld it onto my new shaft like the original, but decided that the reason why the factory shaft wasn't running true, was because the welding process pulled it out-of-square. Instead, I found that I had an extra rag-joint receptacle. I slipped it over the turned end...
And compared it to the hopeless-case...
Much better!
Now, in the stock arrangement, it's quite a task to get the shaft to go into, and out of the tractor. I want to be able to do it without having to disassemble the whole world... fortunately, there's quite a bit of depth to my U-joint configuration. So I run the shaft from the engine compartment, around the (hydraulic!) steering column, past the lift-cylinder, and into the U-joint yoke.
Notice- the shaft is fully bottomed against the U-joint's X-piece, but the front is well-clear of the rag joint- Plenty of room to install/remove the shaft. Notice- the U-joint's grease fitting is on the AFT side of the X-piece- this allows lots of space for the shaft to retract for launch-pin clearance.
But when I slide the shaft's anti-launch pin into the engine-coupler's receptacle and seat it down, the other end winds up flush with the inner face of the yoke. PERFECT!
And the answer you've all been waiting for... (or mebbie not)... the dimensions;
stanner
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2002
- Messages
- 1,349
- displayname
- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
An interesting article... friend sent it to me....
http://www.tractors-etc.com/chintrac101.html
to keep it on topic, i don't think any of the above are painted cub yellow and use Hy-Tran....
http://www.tractors-etc.com/chintrac101.html
to keep it on topic, i don't think any of the above are painted cub yellow and use Hy-Tran....
Scott-
Oh yeah, reminds me of days when I worked around tractors with Yanmar engines and Kanzaki transmissions . . . . . and then Yanmar engines under a "domestic" name.
One interesting thing about the article is about parts interchangability. In talking with these Chinese companies, I don't remember whether it was Denso or Yanmar, but asking about what SAE standard bolt-pattern the starters and flywheels are I got the reply "they're not SAE standard, they're OUR standard." At the time I thought it was pretty inconvienent, but in hindsight, how many places can you just go buy a Deere fuel filter other than the Deere dealer . . . . . and how many companies use metric pipe threads?
Oh yeah, reminds me of days when I worked around tractors with Yanmar engines and Kanzaki transmissions . . . . . and then Yanmar engines under a "domestic" name.
One interesting thing about the article is about parts interchangability. In talking with these Chinese companies, I don't remember whether it was Denso or Yanmar, but asking about what SAE standard bolt-pattern the starters and flywheels are I got the reply "they're not SAE standard, they're OUR standard." At the time I thought it was pretty inconvienent, but in hindsight, how many places can you just go buy a Deere fuel filter other than the Deere dealer . . . . . and how many companies use metric pipe threads?
Governor problem?
I think, I fired up my 149 after having the motor out during a rebuild of the steering and front end. I painted the motor and took off the Carburator and Governor "Lever". When I put everything back togather it started right up but wants to "Run away and won"t idle. I need some advice from the EXPERTS. HELP!!
I think, I fired up my 149 after having the motor out during a rebuild of the steering and front end. I painted the motor and took off the Carburator and Governor "Lever". When I put everything back togather it started right up but wants to "Run away and won"t idle. I need some advice from the EXPERTS. HELP!!
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- Home of the Plow Special
Dave-
Great looking work! Just curious...Does that U-joint have any flex to it when the tractor's running, or does it appear to run perfectly straight in this application?
Great looking work! Just curious...Does that U-joint have any flex to it when the tractor's running, or does it appear to run perfectly straight in this application?
