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Archive through February 21, 2017

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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eford

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Earl Ford
I did a test with an electric fuel pump on my 782 and left the old pump where it is. I don't have a cube like Steve suggested but am getting one. You don't want a hole in the block, it just begs for some kind of problem to happen. The old pump will be great block off plate, and using the hose routing both sides of the old pump together will keep it contained, not letting anything in or out of the block. It's also simplistic instead of making a block off plate.
Verify the float in the carb is working, route new fuel lines from tank to pump to carb and you should be back in business!
 
Makes sense Kraig! I get it, just takes a while with my pea brain head!!

Matt, Steve, Kraig - thank you for the valuable info and the schooling. Now ya all know why I rode the short bus to school.
 
104 Clutch question.....
The parts look-up for the clutch pedal assly #14 lists a "spring washer" in association with it.
Of course it is NLA and is not pictured.

Would this washer have been a "wave washer" and have gone between the pedal and frame bushing on the outside of the frame? Perhaps to take up any lateral slop in this area and prevent rattles? And keep the brake lock away from the frame some?
Or, would this have been a wave washer on the rivet that holds the brake lock in place?

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Are you sure it isn't a washer related to the clutch return spring and it's retention? I have never seen a washer in the area you suggest......

Brake lock is an option.....
 
New barn for the IH "Toys". 72 under the entry roof, 100 w/ blower and 104 with blade ready for snow. Yes this is a photo from about 1 month or so ago - 50's and sunny here in Mi this week. Only had to plow twice this winter - bummer.
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David S.
The wave washer goes between the park lock lever and the pedal. No washer on the cross shaft that I'm aware of.
 
Ok I'm not sure if I'm paranoid or what but I've been smelling fuel from my 125 fuel valve is off and no visible leaks or pooling on the the frame or drips on the floor I checked the oil and it smells odd.I guess I could smell a bit of fuel in the oil but I'm not sure,I changed the oil and filter about a month ago and haven't run it that much since any ideas fellas could I have done something to the engine when I fired but the qa 36 for the first time it did get jammed with snow and smoked the belt I've since replaced the belt and run the blower with success
 
Paul-I'm extremely jealous of your "toy box"/barn awesome I'd love that.i have my 125 shoe horned into my one car garage with my project wooden canoe, my mtd rototiller my work bench my pellet supply for my pellet stove and the most important thing my full sized beer fridge
 
Ethan K.
You might have float issue letting gas back into the crankcase.
You can tell pretty quick after running it a while by draining some oil out in a small metal container and getting a match close to the oil.
If there's gas, you'll know it when the oil lights off.
 
Digger-also would there be a pungent external smell with a float problem or is that an internal problem???
 
Before I did anything, I'd make sure there was gas in the oil.
If so, then a carb kit OR a good cleaning would be in order.
All it takes is a microscopic piece of junk to screw things up sometimes.
The float issue would let gas rise to high in the bowl and suck it in the crankcase.
Since we have not perfected smell a screen yet, the term "pungent external smell" is a relative term.
What smells nasty to you might not to someone else.
Smells these days with the unleaded gas used by 90% of the people could be ok one time and stink the next time.
 
Digger-I'll pull a sample of oil tomorrow night your right as I've said in the past I work at a Chevy dealer here in RI so I have a very sensitive nose when it comes to fuel smells my pungent maybe someone's faint and your also right about the microscopic particles I had a bit of junk screwing up my generator had to pull the card and give it the complete carb cleaner treatment...do you think a carb rebuilt would be in order anyways or am I jumping the gun a bit???
 
IMHO,
If you've never rebuilt the carb since you've owned it, or it's been YEARS, it wouldn't hurt.
But I'd find a starting point before you got to carried away, LOL

There's a few things I do to any new to me Cub.
Clean all the grounds, go through the fuel system, check out the wiring, and change all the fluids.
Of course the main thing would be fix the flat tires, LOL
Seems everyone I've brought outside of 2 had leaking tires.
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Charlie, I don't have enough tires to replace all my flats! Lol.
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Since this pic, the rears have gone out, ha! I agree, 100 ran OK when I got it, but I popped the bowl off and found some junk, cleaned and ran way better. I still need to take glass bowl off again and replace upper gasket. Was planning on running tank out before now pushing that white stuff....
 

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Paul W. Very nice Cub Cadet Barn.

Earl F. I may have a pair of front and rear tires for your Cub Cadet. No tubes though. I can check the tire pile this weekend.
 
Digger-ok thanks for the input I've gone thru all the fluids filters,tires and what not when I got the 125 in November I'll do the match test with the oil(that aught to be cool LOL)and jump off the deep end afterwards...think I'll still grab a carb rebuild kit I don't think it ever been done considering the "patina" on the carb it's self.Any ideas on a good kit I don't want to make the greedbay mistake I made with my pto rebuilt kit?
 
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