Archive through February 21, 2004

[rnajecki]

Bryan,

I've got the same Quiet Kit for my 149, but it hasn't been installed yet as it's just too darn cold in the shed. But I'm sure I didn't get the Kohler 1-X-229-12 pipe nipple you pictured with my kit. My local dealer doesn't have it, but thinks it's standard black iron plumbing pipe that I could get at a hardware store. Can you tell me the overall length of your pipe nipple?

Thanks,
Roy

 

[stanner]

Art

i vote for that graphic to be the new "Poofed" warning...

 

[digger]

Well dint do to bad this weekend after 2 dang trips to Iowa!!!

Kraig,
Found a neat 15 page book too!

The blade needs some help but it's solid.

Yea and I had to bring home a dang gear drive too!

 

[bmcmeen]

Roy N. -

You wanna know the length of my WHAT???

Yeah, I'll measure it for ya tonight...

 

[digger]

Bryan,
And we'll be waiting with much antisipation on "YOUR" measurement!

 

[rnajecki]

Bryan,

For an accurate nipple measurement, stand outside shirtless. And be sure the neighbors take notice.

Roy

 

[jmoore]

Because I convereted my standard IH blade to rotate the feet started to wear badly. The angle of the feet are fixed and don't always hit the
ground flat. New IH feet are $18.00 plus in Michigan 6% sales tax. Therefore I made these if any one is interested.

 

[fmorski]

Keith & Todd.

You guys are right. I screwed up the numbers. I had the bores right and the hp right, just mixed up my No's after the "K". I should know better. Wish it was a 16hp K341. I could use one for my 1650 that is engineless. It was supposed to be a K301 but turns out to be a K321. I know 1200's were supposed to be 12hp cubs. The bore was 3.518" at the top and 3.519 at bottom of rings. Usually not so tight so a decent hone job will not hurt this one. New rings, valve job and new gaskets. Checking crank tonite. If it is not good, will fix that too.

That will complete the three 1200's, next come the 2-1450's and after that the 129 gets overhauled. Then the 102 restoration engine will get a ground up job.

Some time I need to fix the 2-147's also. Will keep the parts guy happy.

 

[roundy fendered cubs rule!]

Well I checked the FAQ's.
Anyone,
Has anyone ever replaced the seals on an original creeper? Is it alot of trouble or is it easy? I have the creeper out now and just wanted some input. Yes I have the FM.

 

[digger]

Kent,
Pretty simple really, Just take it apart and reverse the procedure,

 

[bmcmeen]

Roy N. -

I ain't goin' there

The exhaust nipple is 1-1/4" long overall, the unthreaded portion is about 5/16".

 

[wdeturck]

I got a call from Steve Tencza(with his father Lou) who is organizing a Cub Cadet Day at the Conn. Antique Engine Association in Kent, CT on Sunday May 2, 2004 which is also their spring show. He asked me to post this information on the Forums. He has no E-mail but can be reached at 1-860-355-3003. I hope the New England Gang will give him a call and help him make this a good Cub Cadet Event(he wants to try to make this a yearly event). Here is a picture of his Dad in 1964 on their 100 right after they bought it. I couldn't find any pictures of last falls Kent event which I attended and me Steve and his Dad.

 

[dkamp]

Here's tonight's progress on the Cub Cadet hydraulic-steering column;

This is the flange bearing I've used. It's a General Bearing part 324323-01. It has a 3/4" bore, 1-3/8" OD, and 1-1/2" flange OD. Total thickness is 7/16".

The ID is same as the original plastic bushing. The OD is just a tad smaller than the original bushing. It'll fit into a normal C-C wideframe column just fine by either putting a little shim-stock around the bearing, or by slotting the tube a bit, and putting a hose-clamp around the column.

In the case of my hydraulic-steering column, the fit is downright perfect. I used some tubing with same OD as the Cub-Cadet Ross column, but it's 1.5" ID makes it just a bit thicker than the original CC column. Sure turns nice, too! Looks perfect, works even better!

 

[aaytay]

Kent-
Having replaced the seals and bearings on my Original creeper, I can say that Charlie's right. It's simple, but it isn't easy!

You've got to press (or pound) the bearings out, but since they're steel bearings that have been in a aluminum creeper box for 40years, they don't want to come out too easy. I got mine out with a combination of hammering and a press, but the entire time I kept waiting for the entire thing to go "pop" and fall to the ground in a million pieces. It's kinda like trying to build a house-of-cards with a jackhammer if you know what I mean...

 

[aaytay]

Some of you may have already knew this, but...
I learned that there are two different types of PTOs that were used before they went to the brake-PTO of the later 1X9-series tractors.

The PTO on the right is the earlier version and has the wrong triangular spring in it. This PTO should have a triangular spring who's ends are bent down to fit inside the groove around the edge. As you can see, the one on the left has "pins" that hold the spring in place, so the ends are allowed to "trail" off the edge of the PTO.

Like I said, may be old news for most, but it was new to me as all of my wideframe PTOs up this point were electric (QL)

 

[lbuttke]

Hey Digger, that gear drive looks likes its missing some parts, better drop it off at my place so it don;t fowl up all your hydro's.

 

[dkamp]

Aaytay-
You had problems removing steel bearings from an aluminum housing? The solution is easy... I use it for disassembling corroded marine outdrives:

Put the housing in a parts washer, get all the crud out.
Get a large steel can, put the housing in, and pour in enough Apple Cider Vinegar to submerge the bearing's bore. Let it sit for about 8 hours. Dump out the vinegar (back into the container- you can use it again, but don't put it on your salad). Pour in a similar amount of 30wt non-detergent motor oil... put the can on an electric hotplate, and warm that oil up to about 350 degrees. Submerge the housing, let it warm up, then lift it out, turn it over, and the bearing will fall out.

 

[dkamp]

Hey Kenny-

You asked about the U-joint part numbers. The yokes come with a keyway AND drilled/tapped for a set-screw. I drill through the rest of the way, using the same drill-size to fit the roll-pin OD.

Instead of using a roll pin, I cut the threads off of, and turn down the shank of an allen-head machine screw.

The pin doesn't require a hammer to install or remove, and it's very secure.

 

[roundy fendered cubs rule!]

Thanks Charlie,Art, & Dave! I'll try that.

 

[wcompton]

Art-
Interesting you posted those pictures of the clutches. I noticed when I had the grille off my 169 recently that my PTO clutch had TWO of the triangle springs. I'm assuming that this wasn't a factory setup.