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Archive through February 20, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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I purchased and installed an automobile tachometer. We have a K241 with a K301 block bored out .020 over. At idle speed how many r.p.m. should I see on the tach ? Other than the boring done because of cylinder wall wear, the tractor is stock...running at full throttle, what kind of r.p.m. should I see ? I wnat to try to determine if the tach is working correctly
 
Charles Lamb: Generally speaking, Top No-Load speed should be at or near 3600 RPM if the governor and all linkages are set correctly. (I don't know about Kohlers, but B&S makes a big deal about the motor's application and their Top No-Load speed may vary with engine spec# from 3200 to 3600.)

I have a Tiny Tach installed on my 782 and the motor runs at about 3400 w/o a load and drops to 3200 with a load.
 
Charles, I'm confused... How do you have a k241 with a k301 block .020 over? By your description you should have a .020 k301. K241 should have no part of it. Unless that's what your replacing.
 
Nic Bextermueller:
I have one of those tractors that is a K241, but when building the engine they ran out of K241 blocks and built it with a K301 block. At least this is what I read, I believe on this forum
 
Nic Bextermueller: After you told me about the Equus unit I went to O'Reillys and bought a "6088" Tach. I told the clerk that I wanted one for a single cylinder Kohler, but ended up with the "6088". I went home and installed it and it did not work, and found that it is for a 4-6-8 cylinder auto. I went to the internet again and found the one that you talked about that is for a single cylinder to an 8 cylinder engine "6068", with the button that you push to change from 1 to 8 cylinder. Put it on and I have not been able to get it to work. I read a post that said something about "shortening the wires" and I left the wires fairly long. Would the length of the wire make any difference ? Any suggestions that might be helpful ? I assume that the only wire that cannot be shortened is the one that is the "pickup wire", but could wire length be the problem ?
 
Well, I must admit my stupidity. The problem was that I did not have a good connection to a power source. Once that was corrected, everything was fine. They say that everyone can make a mistake, but this one should not have happened. Oh well, I guess I proved myself to be human because most of us do make mistakes.
 
Charles, congrats on the new tach!
Since you got it working I'll skip the tech part.

Now post up some pictures of the new go-fast goodie!

P.S. never trust an auto parts store clerk... Also go in with the part # you need for anything. But for good measure, I was unaware of the differing parts also. Thanks for the heads up.
 
Does anyone know what size endmill is needed to bore a Kohler K-series rod to use the bearing insert? I have a Bridgeport mill and some larger endmills but can't seem to find any info on what size the endmill needs to be.

Ken
 
K. Williams, Brian Millers website said to use a shell reamer 1.625 Dia. with plenty of cutting oil. I did several rods for myself on my brothers Bridgeport using a boring head dry. You just have to be extra careful when adjusting it. Use a keyway cutter to make recesses for the insert tang. The insert numbers are Clevite 77 CB-279P or CB-279P Federal Mogul PN 9885CP or 9885CPA Note, Don't forget to drill oil hole in insert.
 
Great Thanks Dave. Thats what I was looking for. I did some pulling in the early 2000's then got into lawnmower racing until 2010 when I started having problems with my back and had to give it up. Now I'm ready to get back into a competitive sport and I'd like to biuld a stock 16 puller. I had looked at Brian's site and did not see the info. Thanks again

Ken
 
K. Williams, I printed that info from his site a long time ago. I like to have things on paper, it's easier to reference what I need.
 
Dave I have another question about boring the rod for the bearing insert. How do you hold the rod in your mill?
 
Does anyone know if Scott Madson is still able to have cams ground and how to get intouch with him. I had one of the cams in a puller years ago and liked it. Now I'm looking at getting back into pulling again and would like to get another cam done.

Ken
 
I don't know about Scott Madson, but check out this guy. His name might sound famiar:

" Welcome to Small Engine Cams.
My name is Tim Iskenderian. I am Ed Iskenderian's youngest son. My specialty is making custom racing camshafts for small engines."

Smallenginecams.com

I heard lots of great things....
 
I found Scott's number on the net and gave him a call. He said he is no longer doing cam regrinds. I looked at Tim's site and didn't see a cam profile that I think met my stock 16's needs. I'm going to give them a call and see what they offer. Vogel has a cam for it but its 179.00 dollars. Has anyone used their 375-Ch-4k cam?
 
Kenneth - look at Kirk Engines at the top of this and every page! $75.00 for a performance cam !!! This is what I'm putting into my engine. At least send him an inquiry - the information he responded to me with was wonderful!
 
I'm putting a 122 together for pulling any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks
 
Planning on just running stock haven't gotten around to weighing machine yet so not sure what weight class just yet
 
OK a quick question I've got a 122 with the creeper I was pulling in high the other day felt a pop now it wont move.driveshaft spins with motor n clutch all spiral pins are there machine barely had a load on it is there a spiral pin inside.the creeper.unit everything is good its.either in.the creeper unit or trans any suggestions would be greatly appreciated thanks
 
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