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Archive through February 20, 2012
- Thread starter jlgordon
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Jesse,
Putting the 2.2 in can be done but you may have to lengthen the frame. Extreme Motor Works did a 2.8 very nicely but the V-6 is shorter than an inline 4. I was inspired by his 2.8 project and put a 3.1 V-6 out of a Pontiac without lenthening the frame. It fits but is troublesome because it was a computer motor that I have converted back to a distributor instead of the crank trigger. If I had it to do over again I would use an older engine that had a distributor from the start. Anyway, remember this too. The car engine will be turning the wrong direction. You can instal it backwards and drive off of the harmonic balancer or you will have to flip the carrior over inside the rear. You also have to flip the charge pump. That works but it's a little "edgy" when you start moving the hydro handle. Good luck friend.
Putting the 2.2 in can be done but you may have to lengthen the frame. Extreme Motor Works did a 2.8 very nicely but the V-6 is shorter than an inline 4. I was inspired by his 2.8 project and put a 3.1 V-6 out of a Pontiac without lenthening the frame. It fits but is troublesome because it was a computer motor that I have converted back to a distributor instead of the crank trigger. If I had it to do over again I would use an older engine that had a distributor from the start. Anyway, remember this too. The car engine will be turning the wrong direction. You can instal it backwards and drive off of the harmonic balancer or you will have to flip the carrior over inside the rear. You also have to flip the charge pump. That works but it's a little "edgy" when you start moving the hydro handle. Good luck friend.
Richard, The aluminum grill castings used on some of the QL 1xxx series will bolt right your 128. you may need to change the hinge or drill new holes as they are spaced differently if I recall correctly. I usually just use the QL hood too.
rkatzenstein
New member
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2012
- Messages
- 1
- displayname
- RICHARD KATZENSTEIN
what are you using for a diferential and trans ?.
M
mkreek
Guest
Question, How have you guys attached a 3 pin driver to a Kohler Command? I'm repowering my 582 with a CH 25. Thanks
Check out www.midwestsupercub.net or give them a call they have the adaptor you need.
M
mkreek
Guest
I've contacted MWSC, they sell the command hubs for non-stock configuration commands. The Hub is only 1 3/4" thick, when using the stock cooling fins the hub needs to be at least 3 1/2" thick or thicker to allow air flow to the engine. MWSC doesn't offer the metric bolts long enough to double up their hubs.
I wondered if there was another way?
I wondered if there was another way?
M
mkreek
Guest
An update: I took the 1" driver shaft from a KT17 engine, which bolts up to the 4 metric bolts on the CH25 flywheel. I took the 3 pin clutch driver and welded it to a 1" pulley hub. Then assembled on the CH25. Works flawlessly. Cheers
We are trying to get it going, but have run into another problem. Installed new clutch and left the 3 pin driver in place. Not sure why, but the driver basically "flew apart". Is there any advantage to 6 pin verses the 3 pin, since the clutch will work with either 3 or 6 pin
nbextermueller
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 18, 2007
- Messages
- 909
- displayname
- Nic Bextermueller
Charles Lamb,
The only advantage to using a 6 pin driver is spreading the drive load over more holes. With lots of torque and heavy loads, the 3 pin driver tends to wobble out the the 3 hole clutch disk. And since they don't make the OEM disk with the metal in them anymore, a 6 pin does a much better job of making the drive holes last as long as the disk surface. But you shouldn't need a 6 pin unless your really making good power like a healthy purpose built pulling 16 does.
The only advantage to using a 6 pin driver is spreading the drive load over more holes. With lots of torque and heavy loads, the 3 pin driver tends to wobble out the the 3 hole clutch disk. And since they don't make the OEM disk with the metal in them anymore, a 6 pin does a much better job of making the drive holes last as long as the disk surface. But you shouldn't need a 6 pin unless your really making good power like a healthy purpose built pulling 16 does.
Nic & Charles.
The factory 3 pin is extremely weak. A custom built 3 pin is better....but having the load spread out over 6-pins is hard to beat.
I run a 6-pin in my plow tractor and the wear in the holes in the clutch disk is barely noticable after many plow days and abuse at home.
Go 6-pin or better for pulling.....or any rebuild that you REALLY intend to use hard.
Just my opinion. I like to do things once.
The factory 3 pin is extremely weak. A custom built 3 pin is better....but having the load spread out over 6-pins is hard to beat.
I run a 6-pin in my plow tractor and the wear in the holes in the clutch disk is barely noticable after many plow days and abuse at home.
Go 6-pin or better for pulling.....or any rebuild that you REALLY intend to use hard.
Just my opinion. I like to do things once.
Speaking of the 6-pin clutch drivers-
Are the ones from Lakota or Midwest Super Cub built with enough meat to them that they don't have to have the studs nutted on the back side? I'd like to be able to use one and drive a narrow frame hydraulic lift as well.
Are the ones from Lakota or Midwest Super Cub built with enough meat to them that they don't have to have the studs nutted on the back side? I'd like to be able to use one and drive a narrow frame hydraulic lift as well.
jdiederichs
Well-known member
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- Nov 9, 2004
- Messages
- 659
- displayname
- Jim Diederichs
Yes, the Super Cub ones are plenty meaty in the threads, the jam nut is a CYA thing IMHO. Simply loc-tite the studs in or peen them well.
Jim, thanks, that's great news. I've got a custom drive cup being made; with the large flywheel and NF hydraulic lift, one that's about 3/16" longer is in order to keep the belt off of the grass screen screws. That one part is keeping me from buttoning up the engine.
