Archive through February 20, 2005

[dkirk]

Jim,

In an emergency, a grade 3, 1/4 inch diameter bolt could work. Just find something long enough that you have about 1.25 inches of unthreaded shank to work with. You could round off the hex in a bench grinder, cut it to length (1.25) then drill a hole for small cotter pin. It'll get you by.

 

[farmall gray]

Bryan,
I can't answer your question for sure, but I would think as long as it can take the heat of baking it would. My BIL has a fab shop and he had an interesting bugaboo a while back with powdercoating. He made a new clock tower for a bank down town that was wiped out by a truck.
It was all made out of copper sheet and soldered
together. They had it powdercoated and when they baked it, it melted all the solder. I can't remember how they ended up fixing it. They may have eded up silver soldering it.

 

[bmcmeen]

Farmall -

Ouch!

Unfortunately the bottle here doesn't say anything about max temperature. It's Evercoat metal glaze and is VERY thinly applied.

 

[dreid]

Shear pin for the snow thrower
Jim:

I had a picture from here for a clevis pin, iron or steel, not chrome plated, and was 1/4" by 1 3/4" with a cotter key in the end of it. I've just gone through the pix I have and cannot find it. If it surfaces later, I'll post it. If you can find one, that is. The original poster had found one, but every Menards, Farm and Fleet, Stockmans, and hardware store now supplies a miserable multi-holed universal (universally worthless) form of it. The multiple holes make for a very weak pin. I'm still looking. Right now my brothers (former owners of my 782) recommend a regular bolt, with a lock nut on the end. They've found it shears less frequently, and by tightening it down tight with a regular nut and washer, it seems to shear more often than a slightly loose fit with a lock nut on it. Why, I haven't a clue. Good luck in finding it. So far I've thrown a few dog bones and some ice this winter and not sheared anything.

 

[tcbusch]

I have a confession to make.
I am telling only you guys and no one else because I figured you would understand.
Here is what happen. As some of you might know we got about 4 to 5 inches of snow last night. I got to go out and play in the snow with the blade on the 147 one arm. I was having alot of fun. I decided to sneak over to the neighbor to the north and blade off his driveway before the hired plow man came by. The neighbor wasn't home so I figured it was free game. I think I might have burst his bubble

. He drove in stopped and then backed out. I guess I sort of stole a few dollars out of his pocket

.
I knew the guy pulled in and then pulled out because I was blading off the driveway of the neighbor to the south when I saw him. That neighbor wasn't home either. There was just so much snow i couldn't help myself

.
I figured if the cops came by I could use the defense of entrapment. The temptation was just too much.

 

[dreid]

Clevis Pin Picture

Finally found the picture that was sent to me earlier. David Kirk found it (he didn't say where he bought it) and sent me a picture and I believe posted here, too. Hope this helps.

 

[jderstine]

One of the suppliers we use at work ( I'm a machinist ) is McMaster Carr.

Here's a link to their website http://www.mcmaster.com/

Type in " clevis pin " in the upper left in the find products box and it will list all diameters and lengths.

Jeff

 

[stanner]

Terry..

you've discovered the 'Cub-curse", when the body's need (urge) to plow/blow/throw snow overides the mind saying 'don't do that'...

I have a lot of happy neighbors with clean driveways... but I tell them, 'I'm only playing with my toy' and not to expect it everytime...

 

[stanner]

Dave A, Travis, others,

I powdered a lot of the QA parts two seasons ago with the eastwood kit, and so far, the parts have not weathered in any way. no chips.

 

[jsirois]

Paint or Powder.
I am definatly new to the Cub using scene
This is my second season with my 782 mow/throw/plow/grade/cart/dump.
I am having a ball
The cub has already put me in the black by letting me firing my landscape contractor, and the plow man.That what I tell my wife.It works like a charm when all those ups packages from the midwest show up at our door.
I sandbasted and resprayed many of the sheetmetal parts on the tractor last spring,with the case ironclad.I was sort of disappointed.The price was right, but it took two weeks to dry,and then I got surface pitting 4 week later.
Powder coating has too many problems
1.you cant do it yourself without alot of equipt.
2. It is too thick and i have seen it not fill tight spaces between welded parts
3. The powder coat I have worked with is not repairable.the pieces need to be recoated completely
4.If you don't do it yourself you have you machine down while the parts are in the powder room,and the snow is falling

The day after Christmas we got some reasonable snow for our area 16"over the night. The time had come to put the h-42 on the tractor.I had of course promised myself I would give the unit the once over.lube,adjust, sand and paint over the 25 years of use.This isn't the show paint job,just the one to keep the rust at bey.At 10:00pm painted the thrower with 3 coats of Ben Moore Polimide Epoxy Tinted to match IH white.
The paint was left over from a museum exhibit case job i did a year earlier.It was chosen for its abrasion resistance.100%water proof.good gloss retention.fully cured in 8 hrs.
This paint is used on industrial equiptment,but its common use is to refinish porclean and enamel bath tubs.
End of Story. At 7:00am the next morning I peeled the tape off,clipped on the thrower.I threw snow from my gravel driveway for 3 hrs.The paint was still on the auger and the chute at the end of the day.I have used alot of paint and this one seems pretty apropriate for the job.This paint is repairable and sandable and hard as hell. It is more money than most at $97.00 for a two gallon kit,But the quality of the coating is excellent}
Thanks John

 

[tschweizer]

John, look at the picture below your post. Old electric ovens are fairly easy to find. As for the equipment, $100 will get you started on a home kit.

The powder coating I've been having done is absolutely no thicker than paint. It can be applied thick or thin, just like paint, and much more evenly than paint (especially on small parts) from the electic charge. IMHO, it covers the hard to reach places better than paint, especially welds.

It can be touched up with touch-up paint if it chips, etc.

One very nice thing is that there's no cure time. As soon as it cools off, it's ready to handle. AlSo, the powder is like $5-8/lb, and a pound will do a lot of parts!!

Like I said, not everything on these tractors needs to be powder coated, but I've learned a lot about it in the last few months, and it does have some major benefits.

I just got back from the local guy and he has offered to do some parts on Friday night before Plow Day if anyone wants a demonstration.

 

[rbneaveill]

on some parts i would rather powder coat but if i would have to choose i would paint before pawder coating

 

[dfrisk]

We had about 4-5 inches of really wet snow by about 2 PM yesterday. Got the #72 & QA-36 out and played for a bit. About the best I could do was shove the snow around into piles, it wasn't a goos snow to blow around.
Experience I've had with powder coat and paints at work is with Expoxy P/C, the rating of surface hardness & abrasion resistance is called a "Sand Drop Test", colume of dry sand is dropped onto the coating. The epoxy P/C is rated ten times the durability of the closest liquid paint back when I bought the process back about 12-14 yrs ago. I'm not sure what Eastwood's P/C material actually is, the catalogs don't say. It'd be interesting to see how the different materials available today compare. We have Du Pont IMRON and other two-part paints, plus the enamels with hardeners, and base coat/clear coats. From what I've heard it real hard to beat the enamel W/hardener for durability when cost of material & ease or application are figured in. But all the standard disclaimers apply, seeings how My three CC's and My Super H ALL have Rattle-can paint jobs. Next time they get hardener.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Refurbish vs. Restore.

For those of us that have been here for several years I think we can all recall the various discussions on this topic. (I bet I have many of the original discussions in the archives but I don't have the many hours of time available that it would take to look for them so I'll make up definitions based on my memory of the discussions) I recall that we settled on something like the following as a reasonable definition:

Restoration- returning a Cub Cadet to as original condition as possible given the information available, i.e., correctness of color of a given part, having the correct IH headed bolts or WP headed bolts where appropriate, having the correct seat, decals, engine details, etc. Most likely done to a Cub Cadet for show or collector purposes.

Refurbish- cosmetically and mechanically repairing and/or modifing a Cub Cadet to useable condition but retaining nearly original appearance. Color should still be yellow and white or red depending on the model but the shade doesn't have to be correct. Small details don't have to be correct, i.e., it's OK if the washers on the front wheels are white rather than yellow, an Original can have an 8hp replacement engine rather than a 7hp, the S/G can be black, etc. Most likely for a work Cub Cadet where the owner wants a nice looking and operating tractor but isn't concerned about correctness.

Custom- anything goes.

Perhaps we should re-discus this and add the resulting consenses (provided we can reach a consensus) to the FAQ to head off any future arguments on Forum terminology. Comments?

<FONT SIZE="-2">IMO, FWIW, YMMV, My $0.02, Yada, Yada, Yada...</FONT>

 

[bmcmeen]

Kraig -

What is this word "consensus" that you refer to?

<font size="-2">and don't get me started on the fact that nobody reads the FAQ...</font>

 

[till]

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Perhaps we should re-discus this and add the resulting consenses (provided we can reach a consensus) to the FAQ to head off any future arguments on Forum terminology.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

The only problem I see with this is, does anyone in fact read the FAQ's??

Crap, Bryan beat me to ti....

(Message edited by till on February 21, 2005)

 

[wcompton]

Personally, I'm partial to the "beat the snot out of it, hot rod the hell out of it when repairing, repeat" style of Cub ownership.

 

[dkamp]

For any of you who scope out ag-equipment junkyards, the Wheatland, Iowa mecca owned by the Jackson family (aka. Windy Hills, Inc) has sold their entire (several hundred acres) of boneyard tractors and farm equipment, to a scrap company, and are no longer open for public business.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Bryan, note my comment in the parenthesis....

As far as the FAQ being read, if the/or an issue does come up, it's a nice place to point people to after the fact. No pun intended.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Bryan, more thoughts on "concensus"... with regards to Forum issues I guess it could mean that you and Bob agree on it.......