• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through February 20, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jluckey

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 18, 2001
Messages
187
displayname
Jonathan Luckey -*"Constant Vigilance!!!"*
Thanks Charlie!!!!!!!!!!1

I owe you one.

Jon
 
C'mon Art, it's a gear drive, not one of those delicate girly gydros
happy.gif


Tom-
Sand or glass bead?

All-
The Wheatland's block is back from baking/cleaning, let me tell you it's just about the sexiest naked block I've seen!
 
Art, that pic was the begiining stages. I had alot more to tear off after that pic.

Wyatt, sand.

Did a whole Bobcat that do also.
 
Wyatt -

The Antique Tractor Bible isn't talking about hydros when they tell ya not to blast rearends, engines, etc, while they're still assembled
wink.gif
 
Speaking of transmissions, since my engine block was cleaned and it was done as cheap as it was, would there be any reason not to bake a transaxle housing (disassembled) in a caustic soda wash? I'm sure it'd get rid of the coating inside the transaxle but I'm not sure if that would count against me.

It'd sure be easier to crack-check it with dye penetrant if it was cleaned.
 
ART, Bryan - Dad had a Farmall 450 repainted and the Guy sandblasted it while prepping it. It cost Dad several days of working on That tractor plus two trips to town with the whole tractor to get the hydraulics to work right again. Sand may have had something to do with the four pinion bearing failures We had also, but that was a common enough problem with that model anyhow. What was REALLY bad was the Painter didn't even get all the sand off the top of the hood before He painted it! That painter NOW paints the underside of Interstate bridges for the IL DOT.
 
Balance Gears on Epay? I couldn't GIVE mine away.
I have 3 Magnum 16's I'm working on, only one has the gears in it. The other two have unmachined bosses for the stub shafts. My 16 hp K has them, Ive seen 14's and 12's with and without them in K Series, never saw a 10 hp with them. Kenny
 
Denny -

That would be IDiOT, not IL DOT
lol.gif


Wyatt -

I can't remember which book it was in, but there's a good reason for the red coating to stay intact. I think I saw something similar in the Eastwood catalog, so you should be able to refinish it inside.
 
Bryan-
Most castings are coated inside to seal any sand that's left from the casting process. It wouldn't be that hard to put back, just curious if it'd be necessary after a cleaning like that.
 
Wyatt -

I'm sure it helps cut down on rust, too. Hytran's not gonna hang on every surface forever...
 
Wyatt -

Perhaps it's a belt AND a pair of suspenders.

Also remember that early on they said that you could use motor oil - that surely isn't hygroscopic...
 
We (Moore Tool) paint all of our machine castings inside because of porosity. Remember all the Chrysler 2.2 engine blocks that liked to weep coolant out through their pores? Cast Iron is porous, I've seen oil wick out through old machinery castings that weren't painted inside. Detroit for years has used polymer coatings to seal their engine blocks to avoid this. Kenny
 
One company, VPI, Vacuum Pressure Integration, does just that to impregnate porous castings with sealants of several types.
 
Kenny-
I thought the 2.2L was designed to leak, isn't that why they all had the cracks in the heads from the factory? <flashbacks from my '84 Daytona Turbo Z>
 
That head kept a lot of cylinder head exchange companies in business, along with the insufficient heat treatment of the camshaft lobes, but that's another story....
 
I have a 1450 with front spindles that are towed in at the bottom. I'm sure one of you experts can help me to correct this problem. I know how to add a gusset to strenght it after spindle has been corrected but I have been bending one spindle for over two hours with no improvement.
PLEASE HELP
 
Jack,

The front end is suppose to be "towed in".

15977.jpg


Well that is not as good of an example as I thought. Sorry.

(Message edited by till on February 20, 2004)
 
Back
Top