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Archive through February 19, 2015

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Digger
I got an email this morning asking a question and since I have no idea on what the answer is, I thought I would post his question and see what you guys know.

Some people say, that the 982 came with a single brake pedal and dual pedals were on option. I can NOT find any evidence that this is true. I have scoured my IH & CCC brochures and find nothing. I looked in my TC-193 section H and look at the Cub Cadet Parts Lookup site, and again find no evidence of the single brake pedal.
 
Charlie,

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Charlie, after a little more digging, it appears that the early brochures mention the turning brakes as optional, the later brochures show them as standard.
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John I need a field trip out to see you and your cub cadet museum
 
I thought all 982's had the single pedal under your left foot (like all Cubs have) was a brake/return to neutral and the dual pedals under your right foot only operated the brakes. It did not change the position of the hydro lever. That is because they were for turning brakes, not an "all stop" brake.
 
Good morning. I inherited an IH 682 from my B.I.L., which had a replacement engine installed it, but the whole tractor was pretty rough and not operational when I got it. I am closing in on the finishing touches of the frame up rebuild.

Here are the stats for the present situation:

Model 682,
Serial no. 205 0593 U 686311
(w/ original 5 terminal ignition switch & PTO switch, I believe)

Kohler M 18 S engine;
Spec. no. 24506,
Serial no. 2211410856

I utilized the schematic wiring diagram (the 782 w/ M18, below 719.999, as authored by Roland Bedell) for the addition of a relay to account for the newer engine. I am pretty darned sure that I followed the schematic to a “T”, but I may have overlooked something obvious (or maybe not so obvious), even though I double checked things (hmmm - operator error?).

The engine ignition module was replaced with a new one, gapped @ .010, (the median of the .008 & .012 factory specs. for the air gap). Surfaces of it and at the flywheel magnet are clean.

The tractor wiring harness and all of its connectors were examined, and all seem good, tight, and clean. New fuses (10A) were installed @ the 2 dash mounted locations.

The brake/ neutral and seat safety switches are in place and functional.

All connections at the new relay and at the wiring harness splice-in points have been done with heat shrink crimp connectors (either M-F spade terminals, or the M-F bullet type).

The original solenoid near the (new) battery is functional.

New properly gapped spark plugs have been installed.

The PTO engages when switched on.

With the ignition switch in the position 0 (off) position, the ammeter reads near the first (+) tick mark on the gauge.

There is fuel at the carburetor and the engine has fresh (and full) oil.

New wires for the engine oil sentry sending unit have been run and temporarily capped, but not connected (awaiting arrival of the red indicator light).

Everything seems in order; when the system is energized by the ignition switch in position 1 (the run & light switch position), the lights are functional, and the ammeter responds to load. It still seems OK when in position 2 (run), and position 3 (start) is also OK. The starter turns over strong and consistently, but …………I am not getting a spark at the plugs.

Any ideas on the problem, and/ or tests to check things out? Could the regulator/ rectifier be the culprit? Could the stator be suspect?

I probably know “just enough to be dangerous”, but this issue has me baffled. Any suggestions, tips, and/or diagnostic checks/ procedures would be greatly appreciated. It’s time for this Cub to get its second wind and hit the road (or yard, or whatever) again.

P.S. There was a ‘mystery’ toggle switch which I removed; it was in the dash pedestal to the right of the ignition switch. It appeared to be original, along with the hole in the pedestal, but I couldn’t find any reference to it on the forum nor in the IH parts catalog. It had a rectangular body with 6 terminals, and was oriented vertically. The ‘bottom’ 2 terminals were (solder) jumpered horizontally with a wire lead, and the next pair of terminal was the same. This now vacant hole is where the oil indicator light is going to be installed.

Thanks in advance.





Steve Hinrichs, AIA


[email protected]
540 314 2379
 
Jeff and Dave,
I'm in for the field trip, too. Let me know when.......
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Tim's a good guy. We've bought/sold from each other a few times. Once picked up a 169 at his place in Polo. Then I found out that the 782D I've got used to be the one he owned. I got it from the guy he sold it to. Small world. Jeff/Dave, you guys do know that Polo is the CC capitol/honey hole in Illinois right?
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Steve H., WELCOME!
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Your profile indicates you've been a member since 2010 but this is your first post.
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Hopefully someone familiar with the 82 series will be along shortly with some suggestions.
 
Just in case Ken Updike is on here, I want him to know how much I appreciate his book on C C's, I've read it front to rear twice now, and I use it all the time for questions that pop up.
Also Thanks to all of you who I've emailed questions, I have had responses from a bunch of you C C Lovers.
Dave Kirk, Paul Funk, and Brian Miller are really eager to share their knowledge, and that is unheard of in other venue's.
Thank all of you from Me and brother Tim in Pennsylvania!
 
Kraig,

Thanks for the hearty "welcome". The 682 has been a part time project, time (and $)permitting, so it has been a long process. But I think I see daylight at the end of the tunnel, and hope it's not the train! A quick update; the 'mystery switch' was indeed some sort of original installation, as the punched hole in the metal pedestal has the 'flat' (chord of the circle) in the opening for the stem of a switch, but its function remains unknown. The big issue is to resolve the lack of those high energy electrons to the spark plugs.
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Steve Hinrichs,

It's a pleasure to have someone thoroughly outline a problem and fully explain what actions, tests, parts replacements, etc. have been taken so far.

As I understand it the M18 uses the stator and ignition module for spark. We are usually discussing the points, condenser, coil set up on our K-series engines.

Here is a link to the Kohler M-18 Service Manual:

http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/tp_2204_b.pdf

The manual might also be listed in the Manuals Section of this site, but i am not seeing any listings (probably a Firefox issue).

Page 8.2 has a troubleshooting chart for the no spark condition. With simple tests of the ignition module.
 
Ken,

Thanks for the helpful reference. I actually have the M 18 service manual and apparently had a brain freeze on the section 8 diagnostics procedures - Well, duh-huh, "Read the directions"! That is a good jumping off point for the 'investigation'.

I have no idea what the engine history is, or how many hours are on it. It had some 'cobbled' (external) maintenance when I got it; The rusted out end of the muffler was 'fixed' by a tin can slipped over its end (w/ the proverbial bailing wire attachment), some of the wiring had been 'reworked' with some shoddy connections, a squirrel nest between the heat shields and the cylinder, etc.

So now everything (I think) has been examined, and if questionable, replaced or properly repaired. It now seems to be a solid unit again, and awaiting its call to action.
 
Steve ,, welcome, sorry I don't know anythibg about the 682 but as Ken mentioned use your book and others will chime in
 
Steve,

By reading the wiring diagram, 12 volts should go thru the ammeter, thru the ignition switch (in the run or start positions) through the seat safety switch (when closed) and then power the new relay. When energized this relay should open, and the ignition module should no longer be grounded.

When the ignition switch is turned off, or the seat switch opens, the relay closes and the ignition module is grounded and then "no spark".

Otherwise, I think the tests of the ignition module, wire, and plugs are all that is left. There is no connection of the 12 volt circuit to the ignition circuits.
 
Steve,

About your "mystery" switch, two possibilities come to mind. I don't know if there was a factory punched hole at that location or see any reference to any control in the Operators Manual.

Maybe a PO pulled the light switch functions out of the ignition switch and installed a separate light switch. Or,

Maybe a PO did not use a relay to ground the ignition module and instead just wired in a "kill switch".

Just speculation.
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Ken,
That's also my interpretation of the wiring schematic. I will also be re-checking my wire connections at the new relay (and other places as well), and make sure they are all in their proper positions (closely spaced small spade terminals, weak eyes, and stubby fingers can lead to confusion!)
 
Steve..Welcome to the Forum
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The guys on here are great and very rarely anyone gets stumped by a question asked. Glad to see someone on here that isn't very far away. Have fun on here like the rest of us !
 
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