Keith O.
It's called a 3/4" wheel bearing from the front of your tractor.
It's called a 3/4" wheel bearing from the front of your tractor.
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kostendorf
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- Keith Ostendorf
Thanks Charlie, I figured that out after I tried one. I think I better stay inside now. I thought I'd try removing the steering wheel so I took the nut off and steering wheel was loose, it pulled right off. I put the bearing on then the steering wheel, tightened it down, then I see the foam washer sitting on the seat. So I loosen the nut and the wheel won't come off. had to get the puller out and hammered on the **** thing for 10 minutes and finally it pops off. I'm lucky I didn't screw anything up. I hope the bearing stays in there I don't want to do that again for a while...
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- Binder 1650
Keith O - Charlie is right (of course) about the steering bushing being the 3/4 front wheel bearing. I put one in my 109 and I'm pretty sure I did the same for the 1650.
Also FWIW, I put Dave Kirk's steering upgrade bearing deal on my 1650 and with a front blade in place, it is very easy to steer - especially compared to my 109 - which I have yet to upgrade. I've got another color tractor with a gear reduction steering mechanism (sort of a mechanical power steering) and Dave's steering upgrade makes my 1650 close to that. Hopefully with a 50 inch deck the tractor will steer just as easy as with a front blade hanging out over the front axle.
Also FWIW, I put Dave Kirk's steering upgrade bearing deal on my 1650 and with a front blade in place, it is very easy to steer - especially compared to my 109 - which I have yet to upgrade. I've got another color tractor with a gear reduction steering mechanism (sort of a mechanical power steering) and Dave's steering upgrade makes my 1650 close to that. Hopefully with a 50 inch deck the tractor will steer just as easy as with a front blade hanging out over the front axle.
Here's a head scratcher for you guys- I was telling the mrs. last night I'm going to need a new front tire for my 147 and she starts in with the "you've already spent enough $$ on it already." The naming of parts/prices begins- $$ for weights, $$ for chains, $$ for a blade, etc etc etc, and "your budget is over for this year." (or something similar.) When I point out that it was her idea for me to get it in the first place, she tells me that "I'm just joking with you" and since she is my wife, of course I have NO clue what this means. I'm not seriously worried that I have no cub spending left, but then again....?
D. Frisk
If the governor ball spacer is slipping on your Onan while at temp, then you need to service the engine. Yes, the governor ball spacer is not really a good press fit because a plastic part won’t hold well enough without a locking compound. The space ID and cam OD surfaces need to be cleaned with denatured alcohol to remove all oil and maybe even then wiped down with acetone. The high temp loctite 620 retaining compound should be used and allowed to cure for 24 hours before reassembly. After reassembly and installation back in tractor, run engine for 15-20 minutes no load, shut off and allow to cool for several hours. This will allow the loctite to heat set and provide high temp (450F) retaining of the spacer. Note: if the spacer ID is 0.015” greater than the OD on the cam, the spacer should be replaced.
Good write up on this: http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?p=2342435
Jim
If the governor ball spacer is slipping on your Onan while at temp, then you need to service the engine. Yes, the governor ball spacer is not really a good press fit because a plastic part won’t hold well enough without a locking compound. The space ID and cam OD surfaces need to be cleaned with denatured alcohol to remove all oil and maybe even then wiped down with acetone. The high temp loctite 620 retaining compound should be used and allowed to cure for 24 hours before reassembly. After reassembly and installation back in tractor, run engine for 15-20 minutes no load, shut off and allow to cool for several hours. This will allow the loctite to heat set and provide high temp (450F) retaining of the spacer. Note: if the spacer ID is 0.015” greater than the OD on the cam, the spacer should be replaced.
Good write up on this: http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?p=2342435
Jim
mfrade
Well-known member
Daniel.. asking for forgiveness is always easier / better than asking for permission!
Daniel - just explain to her that your Cub is the top priority in your household and that your every wish should be attended to in short order. You should be fine. If on the outside chance that doesn't work just sulk for a couple days till she can't bear your sad state anymore and succumbs. Good luck!
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Steve - thanks for bringing up the QL vs 82 sales guide info.
Kraig - thanks for posting the guides.
After reviewing the comparison I think IH was pretty hard pressed to come up with any substantial differences. Yup, the tail lights are more flat on the 82 searies so "I guess" they are less likely to breakage. Yup, the hood is a whole lot longer and does open fully to see the entire engine - but wait a minute!!!!! I think the QL used heavier steel for hood material!!!! Seems to me like a pretty tough sell to make the 82 out to be a better tractor.
Bill J - I'd have to say the QL series was the last of the "old iron". Cast iron engine, cast iron front and rear axles (at least part of the production), and the rest rear steel (except the dash). As for the torque, I'll guar-un-tee ya that K series single cylinder torque will sure feel like alot more torque than that KT twin puts out (even if it ain't - but I don't have the actual specs to know). And lets not forget that first KT was a Series I, which we all heard about. I'm actually pretty surprised IH made that mistake. I had understood they required a 2000hr run test before agreeing on an engine, course the 80/81 time wasn't necessarily a good time.
Daniel G - sounds to me like it's time to get another CC. The parts are just to expensive and you gotta have a spare when ever one breaks down. I had a raised deck off the back of the house where I'd hide mine. My wife couldn't tell one from the other, and when she did I said it was a parts unit or the other one had broke(hehehe). You can't be leaving the driveway covered in snow for a week waiting for a part, and you can't leave the grass grow waiting 3 weeks for a part. You gotta have at least 2 or 3 spare units. Best if they aren't the same models either so all the parts don't inter-change. That way you end up with more reasons to get a few more CCs.
Kraig - one more thing. Can I still get me one of those "De'-lux" seats with the thicker vinyl?
Kraig - thanks for posting the guides.
After reviewing the comparison I think IH was pretty hard pressed to come up with any substantial differences. Yup, the tail lights are more flat on the 82 searies so "I guess" they are less likely to breakage. Yup, the hood is a whole lot longer and does open fully to see the entire engine - but wait a minute!!!!! I think the QL used heavier steel for hood material!!!! Seems to me like a pretty tough sell to make the 82 out to be a better tractor.
Bill J - I'd have to say the QL series was the last of the "old iron". Cast iron engine, cast iron front and rear axles (at least part of the production), and the rest rear steel (except the dash). As for the torque, I'll guar-un-tee ya that K series single cylinder torque will sure feel like alot more torque than that KT twin puts out (even if it ain't - but I don't have the actual specs to know). And lets not forget that first KT was a Series I, which we all heard about. I'm actually pretty surprised IH made that mistake. I had understood they required a 2000hr run test before agreeing on an engine, course the 80/81 time wasn't necessarily a good time.
Daniel G - sounds to me like it's time to get another CC. The parts are just to expensive and you gotta have a spare when ever one breaks down. I had a raised deck off the back of the house where I'd hide mine. My wife couldn't tell one from the other, and when she did I said it was a parts unit or the other one had broke(hehehe). You can't be leaving the driveway covered in snow for a week waiting for a part, and you can't leave the grass grow waiting 3 weeks for a part. You gotta have at least 2 or 3 spare units. Best if they aren't the same models either so all the parts don't inter-change. That way you end up with more reasons to get a few more CCs.
Kraig - one more thing. Can I still get me one of those "De'-lux" seats with the thicker vinyl?
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Harry,
Series I KT will go a long time IF you keep them on FLAT ground.
KT 17 won't quite lug with a 16, but they are no slouch either.
Hydro linkage is a HUGE improvement, very crisp, no slop like the xx50 series.
Series I KT will go a long time IF you keep them on FLAT ground.
KT 17 won't quite lug with a 16, but they are no slouch either.
Hydro linkage is a HUGE improvement, very crisp, no slop like the xx50 series.
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Daniel G. Treat your wife to a passionate and wild night out on the town. Cater to her every whim and desire. Then while she's still in a trance from all this romance quietly ask in a round about way for those new tires. Make sure to remind that she is the only woman in your life and that Cub Cadet keeps you occupied so you have literally NO time to even think of any other women.
JIM P. - If you "go by the book", I've seen where people have spent over $500 in just parts to fix the Onan governor issue. The only repair part available today is the complete cam gear w/plastic finger wheel installed, which to install according to the book requires replacing the crankshaft driving gear, plus all the gaskets/seals required to even get to the thing. Yes, I'm sure many people replace the cam gear without replacing the crankshaft gear, but who's saying the new finger wheel on the new cam gear won't start slipping? I have heard that the new finger wheel has one long finger that engages the notch in the outer rim of the cam gear. Poor design in any case expecting a molded plastic part to drive reliably with a press fit on a cast iron gear when plastic expands five times the amount of the cast iron. The govenor issue will be "addressed" when somethng else in the frt of the engine needs attention. I'm the only one that runs the tractor and I know to keep RPM's in check. I've run the tractor for 10+ yrs this way.
If I was to pull my G48G again to fix the governor, guy on another forum used a piece of plastic bar stock to make a driving lug for the finger wheel that extends into the recess of the outer rim the gear teeth are hobbed into. Positive drive until the finger wheel breaks.
My finger wheel must not be too loose, governor works O-K when I first start the tractor, loosens after 1/2 hour of mowing most times and lets the engine run faster when there's no load from the mower deck. Like I said in the other post, when it's cold, the governor works fine.
BILL J. - Year ago when I refurbished the 70, I completely rebuilt the steering gearbox. It had been replaced back around 1970, and had some work done to it sometime by Dad since then. I had a Dave Kirk Nice #605 bearing Super-Steer kit left over from the 72 8 yrs ago, that kit wouldn't work on the brand new 1990's vintage complete new steering gearbox I installed in the 72. But with a complete cleaning, reassembling, greasing, and using a good used frt wheel bearing on the steering column and Dave's kit, that 70 steers like it has power steering. MUCH easier than the 72 with the same frt tires, similar frt tractor weight, and a brand new OEM steering box.
STEVE B. - I was pressed for time yesterday, I didn't have a chance to check the newer MTD tractors. I "think" the B48G has a 1-7/16" bore on the PTO clutch, but I "think" the 1-1/8" bore clutch is more common. I'd really like to have a Duetz 2-cyl air-cooled diesel in the tractor, they're out there somewhere, but failing that, I'd prefer the Kohler Mag 20, but the B&S Vanguard 23 HP is a good engine. Long as I can still buy some parts for the Onan, I can keep it running.
HARRY - I think you're looking at Steve B's Q/L vs '82 series sales info with "Quiet-Line Colored Glasses" on.
Only two models of CC's I will NEVER own; '61/'63 CC because of the belt drive from the engine to the clutch, oil bath air cleaner, and the chance for the fabricated steel frame cracking where it bolts to the cast rearend; And any Quiet-line mostly because of the iso-mounts.
About 30 yrs ago I was shopping for parts for the K241 at an off-color dealership. Their brand of tractors also used the KT-17 series I engine. The town's parks dept. had several of the off-color" version of the 782 CC, even with HS & college kids running the tractors they saw 2000-2400 hours between rebuilds with no failures. Like Steve said, keep them level and they last.
If I was to pull my G48G again to fix the governor, guy on another forum used a piece of plastic bar stock to make a driving lug for the finger wheel that extends into the recess of the outer rim the gear teeth are hobbed into. Positive drive until the finger wheel breaks.
My finger wheel must not be too loose, governor works O-K when I first start the tractor, loosens after 1/2 hour of mowing most times and lets the engine run faster when there's no load from the mower deck. Like I said in the other post, when it's cold, the governor works fine.
BILL J. - Year ago when I refurbished the 70, I completely rebuilt the steering gearbox. It had been replaced back around 1970, and had some work done to it sometime by Dad since then. I had a Dave Kirk Nice #605 bearing Super-Steer kit left over from the 72 8 yrs ago, that kit wouldn't work on the brand new 1990's vintage complete new steering gearbox I installed in the 72. But with a complete cleaning, reassembling, greasing, and using a good used frt wheel bearing on the steering column and Dave's kit, that 70 steers like it has power steering. MUCH easier than the 72 with the same frt tires, similar frt tractor weight, and a brand new OEM steering box.
STEVE B. - I was pressed for time yesterday, I didn't have a chance to check the newer MTD tractors. I "think" the B48G has a 1-7/16" bore on the PTO clutch, but I "think" the 1-1/8" bore clutch is more common. I'd really like to have a Duetz 2-cyl air-cooled diesel in the tractor, they're out there somewhere, but failing that, I'd prefer the Kohler Mag 20, but the B&S Vanguard 23 HP is a good engine. Long as I can still buy some parts for the Onan, I can keep it running.
HARRY - I think you're looking at Steve B's Q/L vs '82 series sales info with "Quiet-Line Colored Glasses" on.
Only two models of CC's I will NEVER own; '61/'63 CC because of the belt drive from the engine to the clutch, oil bath air cleaner, and the chance for the fabricated steel frame cracking where it bolts to the cast rearend; And any Quiet-line mostly because of the iso-mounts.
About 30 yrs ago I was shopping for parts for the K241 at an off-color dealership. Their brand of tractors also used the KT-17 series I engine. The town's parks dept. had several of the off-color" version of the 782 CC, even with HS & college kids running the tractors they saw 2000-2400 hours between rebuilds with no failures. Like Steve said, keep them level and they last.
Thad, the top drawing shows the wire clips approximate locations if you envision the wire run through the chassis I think it will make sense.
Thad, I dug through my photos and found photos of my #1 125 that I have taken apart to refurbish. The tail light wire routing should be the same for your 122. The wire from the switch goes down through the chassis next to the steering column then rearward along the left side under the Hydro control linkages and comes up next to the Hydrostatic pump. Of course, your 122 will not have the hydrostatic pump or linkages but the wire should route the same.
Sorry, no photos of the wire clip locations.
Thad, one more. This one is from the service manual.
hydroharry
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Wyatt C - I can't hardly believe you posted "about time I upgrade from the 169 to a 782"!!! (And you being a Dakota boy at that).
Lets look at the bullets IH was using against the QL thinking of the 169 (yes it ain't a QL but most apply)
*single cylinder design as compared to the opposed twin cylinder - well you know when the single is running!!!
*one piece cast iron crankcase and block - absolutely proven materials!!!
*cooling air and exhaust matched to engine - yup, and sure works good.
*smaller diameter cooling fan for hydro - works perfect and lasts nearly forever, hydro just doesn't fail.
*old frame not equiped to handle wider larger engine - don't need it, engine fits perfect!!!
*hinged hood and separate grill - yup, heavy steel and cast iron (except upper grill) keeps the tractor on the ground.
*short throw hydro lever - get used to it, works great.
*tail lights protrude - you generally crumple the fender before breaking a lens, and anyway replacement lenses used to cost $5.
*lift control and hydro lever on opposite sides (1x9 style) - no confusion here!!!
*smaller hydraulic lift cylinder (throwaway type) - works great and never had to throw one away yet!!!!
*cutting height cam stop sometimes moves - if you know your tractor this isn't a problem.
*less backrest height and no water drain - original 1x9 and QL style fits bigger butts better, or just buy a new seat.
*no safety switch with interlock - use your head as hundreds of thousands did before you.
*hub caps optional - only really add anything while the tractor is sitting. Use your tractor and hubcaps won't matter. If you gotta have hubcaps just buy'em.
Looks to me like I'm sticking with my 169.
Lets look at the bullets IH was using against the QL thinking of the 169 (yes it ain't a QL but most apply)
*single cylinder design as compared to the opposed twin cylinder - well you know when the single is running!!!
*one piece cast iron crankcase and block - absolutely proven materials!!!
*cooling air and exhaust matched to engine - yup, and sure works good.
*smaller diameter cooling fan for hydro - works perfect and lasts nearly forever, hydro just doesn't fail.
*old frame not equiped to handle wider larger engine - don't need it, engine fits perfect!!!
*hinged hood and separate grill - yup, heavy steel and cast iron (except upper grill) keeps the tractor on the ground.
*short throw hydro lever - get used to it, works great.
*tail lights protrude - you generally crumple the fender before breaking a lens, and anyway replacement lenses used to cost $5.
*lift control and hydro lever on opposite sides (1x9 style) - no confusion here!!!
*smaller hydraulic lift cylinder (throwaway type) - works great and never had to throw one away yet!!!!
*cutting height cam stop sometimes moves - if you know your tractor this isn't a problem.
*less backrest height and no water drain - original 1x9 and QL style fits bigger butts better, or just buy a new seat.
*no safety switch with interlock - use your head as hundreds of thousands did before you.
*hub caps optional - only really add anything while the tractor is sitting. Use your tractor and hubcaps won't matter. If you gotta have hubcaps just buy'em.
Looks to me like I'm sticking with my 169.
That's amazing that they would put down their previous models like that.
Did the Q/L brochures put down their previous models that way??
I dunno, Any way, I sure like my QLs
Did the Q/L brochures put down their previous models that way??
I dunno, Any way, I sure like my QLs
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