Kraig...thanks....great idea except I've never owned a trailer. My brother does and has been out here more than once to cart the 129 to his shop to do various jobs. Not going to do it anymore though mostly due to sciatica / back compression issues. So I guess the worn corners in the trunnion go unfixed. Will get the new springs and call it done. I really don't know what else to do with having neither any welding equipment nor any experience whatsoever with doing any welding. Hate when I run up against the proverbial wall with some of this stuff.
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Archive through February 17, 2019
- Thread starter digger
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
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- Justin Bratton
Kraig—I got plenty of time!! Just making my wish list. I plan on doing all my refurbish/restoration work this spring. Also, nothing but cold rain here and sleet here, missed all that snow by 2 degrees!! Stay safe and since your are the ‘keeper of the photos’ take plenty of pictures!
Justin, I'll see if I can get you the diameter of them.
Keith, you could remove the hydro pump from the rear end, probably be a good idea to replace that pesky cork gasket while you have the rear end out of the tractor anyway... Then you could just haul the hydro pump to your brother.
Keith, you could remove the hydro pump from the rear end, probably be a good idea to replace that pesky cork gasket while you have the rear end out of the tractor anyway... Then you could just haul the hydro pump to your brother.
Kraig, think I'll just replace the springs and leave as is. I suppose at some point the 2 lower corners could wear through completely (?) Already did the cork gasket as per previous posts and pics. The 129 really won't see all that much use anymore compared to what I did with it the past 37 years. I only want it to mow some thicker grass and weeds, etc. on a few woods paths adjacent to our property (LONG story
FIXED!!!
That pesky terminal connection issue w/the originals' ignition switch!!
That pesky terminal connection issue w/the originals' ignition switch!!
Nate...my brother just suggested the exact same thing. He mentioned perhaps trying to "build" a 'form", so-to-speak, using stiff cardboard pieces to closely match the desired dimensions. Of course, I'd think something has to be placed under the tron shaft so the JB Weld doesn't simply fall right through when trying to apply it to the worn corners. Have to experiment.
Measuring the length of time a repaired hydro spring slot with JB weld would last is best measured with a stop watch, not a clock or a calender.
Charlie sells a lazer or plasma cut repair piece for $9 that is supposed to be welded on, carefully drill holes in Charlie's part and use small machine screws to attach it to your worn hydro lever or maybe solder it on.
Somebody repaired my 982 by drilling a hole in the lever and installing a long slender cotter key, It failed when I was about 6 feet from the back wall of my shop heading straight towards the exposed concrete foundation wall, transmission did NOT respond to the hydro lever or clutch/brake, was able to steer my way into the open and shut the engine off. I made a part similar to Charlie's but thicker and heavier.
It's VERY important to repair the trunnion in a reliable manner, stop and think how many times you have to stop or change directions and what could happen if you couldn't.
Charlie sells a lazer or plasma cut repair piece for $9 that is supposed to be welded on, carefully drill holes in Charlie's part and use small machine screws to attach it to your worn hydro lever or maybe solder it on.
Somebody repaired my 982 by drilling a hole in the lever and installing a long slender cotter key, It failed when I was about 6 feet from the back wall of my shop heading straight towards the exposed concrete foundation wall, transmission did NOT respond to the hydro lever or clutch/brake, was able to steer my way into the open and shut the engine off. I made a part similar to Charlie's but thicker and heavier.
It's VERY important to repair the trunnion in a reliable manner, stop and think how many times you have to stop or change directions and what could happen if you couldn't.
Dennis...I get your point. Certainly worth a try I suppose. The strange thing about all this is that I don't recall having had any erratic speed issues, unresponsiveness, or "jumpy operation" (such as has been described here) while driving. The last 2 years or so it seemed to drive as it always has. Perhaps it's a very gradual change that I hadn't noticed. So the greatest potential danger here is..what...that one or both of those corners will completely break through? And, if so..what happens then? Could the compression springs fall out?
I appreciate the suggestion to use the piece you describe, but, if I had the welding facility here to attach that, I'd probably be better off to just weld the corners. Won't putting on the new springs and clips do anything to help the situation, as well as to get another thin washer under the snap ring to help take up some of the play between those plates?
I appreciate the suggestion to use the piece you describe, but, if I had the welding facility here to attach that, I'd probably be better off to just weld the corners. Won't putting on the new springs and clips do anything to help the situation, as well as to get another thin washer under the snap ring to help take up some of the play between those plates?
