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Archive through February 17, 2016
- Thread starter thoffman
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
mpatterson
Well-known member
Cam lock....ok, explain more for the dumb a$$ in the room????
Mike Patterson
Your having an issue with the blower not sitting on the ground ? I had that issue and I just add a piece of flat bar to let the blower sit on the ground . I also added two bolts in the arms that have slot in them for lift so when the blower is dropped down it can not go over center and bend the blower lift arms. Pm me you phone number and I will call after 7 tonight if you want , I have a phone plan for time so no problem .I`am having a problem finding the tension spring for the belt on my 450 lol .
Your having an issue with the blower not sitting on the ground ? I had that issue and I just add a piece of flat bar to let the blower sit on the ground . I also added two bolts in the arms that have slot in them for lift so when the blower is dropped down it can not go over center and bend the blower lift arms. Pm me you phone number and I will call after 7 tonight if you want , I have a phone plan for time so no problem .I`am having a problem finding the tension spring for the belt on my 450 lol .
mpatterson
Well-known member
Ahhh...ok, no the cam knob is not effecting it. I checked that and have it turned so the cylinder can set it all the way down. Double checked that last night.
Donnie,
I changed my lift arm style last year to have a shorter slot in it to prevent over centering. I can't see that as being the issue. So you just added another cutting edge to it to double it up?? Holy cobble job! lol
I am thinking it is the pivot linkage, I have to move it to a different hole. Missed that step in the manual when I did the conversion. I am going to try to fix it when I go home at lunch today. HOPEFULLY it is something that simple!
Donnie,
I changed my lift arm style last year to have a shorter slot in it to prevent over centering. I can't see that as being the issue. So you just added another cutting edge to it to double it up?? Holy cobble job! lol
I am thinking it is the pivot linkage, I have to move it to a different hole. Missed that step in the manual when I did the conversion. I am going to try to fix it when I go home at lunch today. HOPEFULLY it is something that simple!
Tom, it'd be a shame to put that faded fuel tank back into your shiny freshly painted tractor.
Put another way: Should I 'Prep' the INSIDE of the tank after I strip and re-paint the exterior of TOMCAT's tank...the INSIDE? Or flush it out and call er good? I was thinking some 10-30W Synthetic Oil swished around in the tank once it dries out. The hot-solder patch appears to be good. Funny thing about 'Brass Wire Wheels', cheapo ones are strangley 'Magnetic'. Ha!! Real ones are about $38/bucks. We had a set of Brass Wrenches on an Electric Dragline...about $100/per wrench. Locomotiveman Tom
Attachments
Tom, ah! Flush it and call it good.
Question:
Regarding replacement dash fiberglass shells that would have been provided from IH Cub Cadet parts back "in the day"
Would they came with all the round holes for steering grommet, ammeter, and cigar lighter knockout, as well as the slotted holes for the choke and throttle cable already cut out?
or, would they just have had the outline/indentation of the holes, allowing the user to cut whichever holes he needed for his particular installation.
The reason I ask, is the NOS piece that I obtained 2 years ago for the 126 had obviously been manually cut, resulting in the holes and slots grossly mis-shaped to the point that the grommet and ammeter literally fall through the holes.
Thanks Guys!
Regarding replacement dash fiberglass shells that would have been provided from IH Cub Cadet parts back "in the day"
Would they came with all the round holes for steering grommet, ammeter, and cigar lighter knockout, as well as the slotted holes for the choke and throttle cable already cut out?
or, would they just have had the outline/indentation of the holes, allowing the user to cut whichever holes he needed for his particular installation.
The reason I ask, is the NOS piece that I obtained 2 years ago for the 126 had obviously been manually cut, resulting in the holes and slots grossly mis-shaped to the point that the grommet and ammeter literally fall through the holes.
Thanks Guys!
Thanks Charlie,
I know nothing about working w/fiberglass.
Is there anyway to fix mine?
Maybe cut a section out of the original panel with good holes and fitting it somehow into the new one after matching up the holes?
Any of you guys willing to take this on?
Thanks!
I know nothing about working w/fiberglass.
Is there anyway to fix mine?
Maybe cut a section out of the original panel with good holes and fitting it somehow into the new one after matching up the holes?
Any of you guys willing to take this on?
Thanks!
Charlie, I take it that is a picture of a dash you USED to have in stock??
Tried your e-m1il but it got bounced right back to me??
Tried your e-m1il but it got bounced right back to me??
David S.
You can go to any auto parts store for a small repair kit. Even Walmart sells'um.
They have directions that even I can understand, LOL
Dunno what to tellya on the email thing. I've gotten over 30 emails today alone on 3 different emails.
Go to my profile, right click on the email to copy and paste it to the message.
I never try to type someones email address, always copy and paste, LOL
You can go to any auto parts store for a small repair kit. Even Walmart sells'um.
They have directions that even I can understand, LOL
Dunno what to tellya on the email thing. I've gotten over 30 emails today alone on 3 different emails.
Go to my profile, right click on the email to copy and paste it to the message.
I never try to type someones email address, always copy and paste, LOL
Lewis Palma, I am looking at the second picture in your post dated Monday, February 15, 2016 - 03:41 pm
Is that part a NOS clutch lubrication bushing or a early type drive shaft coupler?
If it is a NOS lubrication bushing would you mind posting pictures and dimensions?
Is that part a NOS clutch lubrication bushing or a early type drive shaft coupler?
If it is a NOS lubrication bushing would you mind posting pictures and dimensions?
lpalma
Well-known member
Bob,
1 1/4 L,1 1/8 dia and the hole is 5/8
The zerk hole is dead center.
1 1/4 L,1 1/8 dia and the hole is 5/8
The zerk hole is dead center.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Bob E - thanks for posting pics of your Quiet Line units. Always nice to see what they look like. Couple things I noticed right off. First, must be a California thing - both sure look clean and hardly rusty. 2nd thing, I see the drawbar on the front of the 1450. That musta been interesting. Next pic I see you musta replaced the fiberglass dash, and it's got pretty decent decal with a nice tin cover too. The 1000 looks pretty nice in the last pic. It's a gear drive that has always interested me. The 10hp never required balance gears, and mounting it with the Iso-mounts must make it pretty quiet and smooth.
