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Archive through February 17, 2014

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Harry, first time I called the cub dealer in town he had no clue what I was talking about when I said 1962 Cub Cadet Original. He said it had to have a model number on the hood, he finally found it listed as "Cub Cadet".
 
Kraig - first I heard of an Original was on this site as well, but it always made sense. (can you e-mail me and I'll send you the pages from the 782 brochure with the seat details/pics)

Lucas - he must not have been an "original IH" Cub Cadet dealer. He probably didn't come into the picture until after CCC took over. Glad you were able to educate him.
 
Hydro, is the 782 Brochure the full line 82 Series Brochure? If so, what is the publication number on the back cover of the 782 Brochure? It should say something like AD-33387-H1, AD-33387-K2 or AD-33387-N3. Theses are the 3 versions of the full line 82 Series Brochures that I have scans of. My email is in my profile.
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Thanks Harry, I'll be setting it to .030 and I finally found some info on why the gap is important from wickpedia.
(The gap adjustment can be crucial to proper engine operation. A narrow gap may give too small and weak a spark to effectively ignite the fuel-air mixture, but the plug will almost always fire on each cycle. A gap that is too wide might prevent a spark from firing at all or may misfire at high speeds, but will usually have a spark that is strong for a clean burn. A spark which intermittently fails to ignite the fuel-air mixture may not be noticeable directly, but will show up as a reduction in the engine's power and fuel efficiency.)
 
Cold weather start question.
I'm putting together a loader tractor based on a 129.
I'm toying with the idea of adding a clutch type disengagement like the factory option on the 82 series.
I want every possible advantage for cold weather starting on this tractor, and not turning over the hydro would certainly help.
I may end up driving the loader pump off of the back of the hydro pump as well, but not certain, because I want to avoid hacking up good tin.
What would I need to do this? Are these actuated with the brake pedal or with another lever?
I'm guessing I'd start with a gear drive clutch set-up.

Here is the tractor.
By the way, those tires are 10.50 BKT trenchers from GCT wholesale. $137 pair shipped.
I plowed a little with them and they are a good value.
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Kraig - it's brochure 33387-H1. Page 16 starts with a header "782" and has a pic of a high back seat with the caption "High back seat for extra support and comfort on the job". Page 17 has a header stating "Standard Features:" and the 5th one on the list is "High-back deluxe seat", but most of the page itself is taken up by a nice high gloss pic of a 782 with a 50 something y.o. rider, really nice chrome IH hubcaps, and the now infamous mid-back seat. Almost forgot page 24 has a heading "Features:" and close to the bottom of the page it lists Highback Seat and has a black dot indicating Standard on the 782 and 982.
(sorry about your e-mail. Yes it's in your profile but everytime I click on your profile I get that little red X in a square box, and I forget to scroll down to see your details. Wonder why I get the red X - do you have some inappropriate pic in your profile?)

Keith 0 - was there any discussion of altitude? I remember reading someplace, I thought in Kohler information, about the gap varying based on applications used and locations, but couldn't find it in my pile of lit.
(And what's this about Quiet Lines not being Quiet? Have you taken any decibel readings? I never could figure it out myself. I always thought my 1450 was louder than most of the earlier CC's with bullet style mufflers.)
 
Hydro, check out my profile again but watch that red X for a few moments, it's an animated gif.

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283831.jpg
 
WOW I haven't seen this much activity on here for a long time.
I have an odd question on the Firestone vs Trupowers, Ag tires are made for maximum forward traction, but which ones back up better? many times when using a GT you come to the point that going forward is no longer an option and need to back out of a spot. any thoughts?
 
What I found is the larger the gap the hotter the spark. So if the spark is too hot you get a melted spark plug and too cold you get deposits. With our small engines the ideal gap is .030 and play with gap to perfect burn on spark plug at different altitudes. Air planes have to adjust air pressure in the engine to get same performance at different altitudes. This gets real confusing when you add air and fuel mixtures in to the equation. There is a formula for this If only I was smart enough to figure it out...
I'm going with .030 and set the carb by the manual. Do we have any math wizards here?

(The relationship between dielectric breakdown voltage, gap size and pressure is described by Paschen's Law (after a German scientist F. Paschen who discovered it in 1889). For small air gaps in the millimeter range, the relationship can be approximated as:

V = 3000 x P x D + 1350

where V is the breakdown voltage (in volts), P is air pressure (in atmospheres) and D is the air gap distance (in millimeters).)
 
Harry, I don't know why its so loud at open throttle. There isn't an holes in the muffler, I don't know if the muffler is original or not. At any case I think I'll buy another cub before I buy a muffler with what they are going for...
 

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