Archive through February 16, 2012

[jchamberlin]

David, I would second Don's advice. While I'm concerned about the motor --repair and replacement can be expensive and never less than $100 (you can find Kohler motors listed on Craig's List), there is too much to like about a 149 to let it pass.

My two cents worth.

 

[kmcconaughey]

David J., WELCOME!

Wow, you got some great advise there from Kevin and Hydro Harry.

Also, I think you can see why we don't like to post about what stuff is worth. Prices/values can vary from location to location and the ever popular one man's gold...

 

[kmcconaughey]

Don T., here's the parts. They appear to be functional. I took an exploded view and an assembled view. I added a 1/4-20 nut to hold the assembly together for mailing. Note the thin washer on the cable clamp that I highlighted, make sure that goes to the proper side of the cable. It should be between the cable and the main lever not toward the screw head.

 

[dfrisk]

DAVID - Welcome to the best IHCC forum on the internet.

My $0.02 worth on that 149, the traactor has spent some time in it's life abandoned outside, the nob to set mowing height shows deterioration from weather. And the wires running to the Starter/generator are faded. Sad, I leave my car sit outside.... the Cubbies stay INSIDE.

The left frt spindle looks bent, too much postive camber, possibly from falling in a hole, ditch, hitting something, etc. The design of the 1X8/1X9 spindles makes them difficult to straighten, the actual shaft the wheel mounts to is welded on and I've seen many of those welds fail.

The rear tail lights are called "armored tail lights", pretty common on over-the-road trucks. Not a bad thing. The wheel weights aren't IH weights but weight is weight. The rear lugged tires are I "THINK" only 6-12's, plus an off-brand that are probably old because of the 45 degree lugs. They just don't fill up the fenders like a set of 23-8.50's should. Nothing wrong with them, Both my mowing tractors have lugged rear tires and I find I do far less damage to the grass with them, especially on slopes & hills when turning. The mower deck is an older 42" deck. Not a bad deck, made from very heavy steel, but they have to have the "W" shaped baffle in them in good shape to mow well. I'd make sure it's there and not bent up. I have a pair of the 38" versions and I find they pull hard, the pulley sizes actually speed up the smaller outer blades so they cut O-K and that makes them pull harder.

Without the engine running I'm thinking the tractor is worth no more than half of the asking price. The mower in decent shape about 1/10th, and the blade if in decent shape about 1/5th.

So add it all up I wouldn't pay but 80% of the asking price.

I'd have the seller try to start the engine, make sure the lights, etc work. The hydro rearend appears to have the common cork gasket leak, not expensive to repair, but a lot of work on a tractor with hyd lift, plus it's a great time to install fresh Hy-Tran & filter. The Hy-Tran will be the expensive part.

I fixed up a 129 that was in a WHOLE lot worse shape than that about 20 yrs ago. It turned out to be a great tractor but I also stuck a LOT of money in it. Many times the purchase price of $400.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Don T., here's what I was referring to with the washer/cable placement:

 

[dtanner]

Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"

Thanks for that, I `am missing a points cover grommet and will have to make an order up to Charlie to send over. might be best to send to him. It would be less $ I bet for you. I`ll call him and see if that is good with Him.Thanks so much for your donation to my 125 refurb. Later Don T

 

[kmcconaughey]

Denny, not sure that's a hydro leak, note the concrete has random ice/water on it which is what that looks like to me. Having said that, it is another thing to check for. On a lighter note, the subject 149, like many 1x8/9 Cub Cadets I've seen, appears to have the NASCAR option of increased camber on a front spindle for improved cornering. I have a parts 149 that has the wrong spindle altered for oval racing...

 

[hydroharry]

Kraig - in your last pic (painted up version) of the throttle cable connector and stop, I noticed an extra spacer next to the right angle stop. It's not shown in your exploded view un-painted pic. What's up with it?

(under edit) On your NASCAR cub, is there a reason the right front tire tread is turf style and the left is rib? Does this help sliding around corners?

Hydro Harry

 

[kmcconaughey]

Hydro, I noticed that as well. Not sure what's up with it. That's my K301 Killer Kohler that David built up for me. More than likely it was on the original engine that I delivered to David. Who knows what a PO may have done. However, David may have added it to allow for clearance for the tubing from the custom remote breather that David designed to run behind the throttle cable.

 

[awreinholtz]

On a 149 with Hyd, lift, the plactic fan broke. Replace fan, Is there a measurement, from fan to the flex coupling??

 

[dtanner]

Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"

That is good to know , I never thought of putting a washer there to help hold the throttle cable. Mine has the screw striped threads , so the washer would not help.Spoke to Charlie and we are good to ship to him to go with the rest of the parts I will need. I ask him about a condensor I have here to find out if I could use it on my 125. He said He did not sell these. I can`t remember where it came from

. I thought you might have see one like this before. I don`t see why it will not work on the 125. I think I will try it and see.

 

[dtanner]

Art Reinholtz

Just slide the fan ahead on the drive shaft so the blades will clear your hyd lift tubing and you will be good there. remember rotation , I installed my first fan backwards lol.

 

[hydroharry]

Art - page 2-39B of the Service Manual states:
"A cooling fan is located on the drive rod 1-1/8 inches forward of the flexible coupling. The fan is held in position by snap ring pressure on the shaft. The fan will move forward into the lift mechanism if the snap ring is not located over the grooves of the hub as shown". You can find the Service Manual by going back to the main thread page and selecting the Manuals section. FWIW, the manual shows a drawing pic showing the 1-1/8" measurement slightly different from what is described. The drawing shows it being measured from the back of the hub base of the fan to the front of the T-based of the driveshaft (not the flex coupling). I feel certain there is some variation allowance in where you actually locate the fan. The really important point is having the snap ring installed onto the fan hub. Without it the fan will slide forward on the drive shaft until it encounters the hydrolift tubing - which results in fan blade failure again. You'll need a pretty hefty pair of snap ring pliers.

Kraig - I'd guess David added it for the clearance you noted. Looks pretty darn perfect to me.

David James - if you're still reading details here just stick 3 hundreds in your pocket and go buy the 149 with the front blade and mowing deck. If you come back with any change all the better.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but that doesn't mean they aren't hard to start)

 

[dfrisk]

DON - That condensor must be for your Diesel 1572.... ;-) All the K-series condensor's had pigtail leads with a forked connection.

KRAIG - True, that spot under that 149 David's looking at could be melted snow/ice, but when was the last time you saw a used Hydro CC not mark it's last parking spot?

Looking at all your KK pic's, DAVE really does a nice job on his engines. Real attention to detail. I added a mechanical fuel pump on my K321 because the outlet on the bottom of the new larger tank SON & I built was actually LOWER than the fuel inlet into the carb. So we added the pump. And THAT sure made room a precious commodity on that side of the engine. I need to rebuild that tank some day. Think the next one will be aluminum, and the brackets will be heavier.

Those WF spindles seemed to be a weak spot. For use with things like loaders they really needed to be reinforced. Their design did seem to distribute wear better than the NF spindles. At least IH decided to back to the bent spindles with bronze bushings for the SGT's.

 

[dmjames]

Thanks guys for the continued info on the 149. I had not noticed the lean on the front wheel. I had noticed the front tires are not quite the same size. Also Kraig you are right, the wet spot under the tractor is melting ice. It is not fliud. I could not find any oil leaks, nothing on concrete or deck and the tractor has been sitting there all winter. The tractor has spent most of its time with this owner outside.
Thanks guys. The info is apprecated

 

[cfolk]

Guys, long time looker first time poster I'm going to look at a 147 this weekend wondered what the standard rear tire size was? I've seen some with 8.5's and also with 10.5's wasn't sure which was correct.

 

[mschutz]

cory f, 23 8.50 12. All that info is in the manual section.

 

[hydroharry]

David James - the front wheels will have some toe in and lean even when they are correct. For sitting outside most of it's life, it actually fooled me and looks pretty good. Front wheels must have been painted, and I still wonder about the IH decal on the front grill - it can't be original and subject to 40 years of outside weather.

Cory F - what Melody notes is correct according to the manual, but most every 147 I've seen was equiped with 23x10.5x12 rear tires. Same thing for the Model 149 and 1450, manual shows 8.5 but always see them with 10.5. What's the difference? Looks better with 10.5 wide, and spreads the weight over more tire area providing better flotation on grass rather than crushing it. 8.5 are probably better for traction on snow/ice/soil.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and can leave tread marks on most surfaces)

Hydro Harry

 

[rgoodman]

Don T, That condensor is for a magneto ignition if I recall correctly. Thay have the screw terminal on them.

 

[snicklas]

Harry,

I would say that may very well be the factory 40 year old decal on the grill. Dad's 149 that has several thousand hours on it looks that good.....

because it has been on the shelf in the garage since 1978..... We took it out the first time we changed the implement, and never put it back on.... Dad and I joke about ones we see with the grill in them......