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Archive through February 15, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Charlie it also needs to be bigger to withstand the stress and what's with leaving open ended tubes on the arms?? It'd be stronger boxed NOT surface welded on the bottom not to mention keeping the wasp nest out ... turn my back for a month and the place goes to the ferds !
 
Question for the CC engine swap guys. will the head off my CC 301A engine fit on the 321AQS engine I installed in my 124? Will there be any problems with the bolt pattern or valve to head clearance? I noticed the spark plug is in a different position on the 321. Anybody know why they moved it closer to the exhaust valve? Also the head bolts on the 321 are sunk down below the cooling fins causing me to use the 321 top tin that doesn't quite match the 301 fan tin. I had to change out the bearing plate, flywheel, and fan tin and bolt on the S/G to make it fit the n/f 124. The engine runs fine but I developed a head gasket leak after working the tractor a little to hard digging some drainage ditches with a Brinly scraper blade. I would like to use the 301 head so that I can use all the tin from the 301 engine.
David in Dayton, TX
 
Richard C.

Wow, you had a hell of a week!!! Glad to hear you made it thru OK...take it easy, that stuff is nothing to mess around with.

I got the rear end swapped over in the 782 tonight, it's not finished, but it's not too far off either. I need to do all of the hydro adjustments and then button it back up. Might get strung out over the weekend though, as I have some other things going on in the evenings this week.
 
Eddie B.

Remove both back tires & wheels. Stand them side by side. See if one stands taller than the other. I have seen matching tires(same brand, size and pressure)have a difference in height from 1 to 2 inches. It too made me think my tractor frame was twisted until I discovered this problem with the tires. Brand new garden tractor I bought last year had this same problem with the rear tires. I called the tire manufacturer and asked them if they ever heard of this. They said they had. They promptly sent me two new rear tires free. My 100 Cub Cadet has old Good-Year ags on the back. One of them is about 1 inch taller than the other. I put the tallest one on the right side to run in the furrow when I plow.
 
Dave A.

Nice shop, and very rebuildable 1650, all of the main parts are there for the fixing....she just needs some TLC.

1650's bad???? No, but they can be a little harder on ISO-mounts than the rest of the QL series. The 16hp Kohler is a rip-snortin' torque monster, makes it worth the extra shake rattle and roll!!!!

Good luck with your rebuild.
 
Charlie P.
I know it looks a little on the week side, and it probly is.
However I aint done building, just out of metal to build with. I got plans on building more lower frame work to attach to the cross frame to the tractor frame.
It takes time and money, time I got, money is slow comming at times.
 
Lonny you can add 150 pounds more steel to it and you'll still not have what you'd end up with IF you built it right to start with. The cross mount under the tractor is to damn small to begin with. It's to small in the "square" and to light of gauge. The only thing you'll be saving in the long run is nothing. Buy the bigger steel now and it'll be cheaper than adding more to it plus what you already have. It'll save other repairs later when it breaks and twist under the pressure. You put a load on it and 1500 - 3000 psi in the cylinders and see what happens ... I know ya got to build it "light" because of the wimpy spindles and steering but you can't have it strong and light building it the conventional way. (unless you can afford Titanium) Every bit of your forward weight will be pivoting on the cylinder pin and the cross mount will be trying to keep the loader pulled down to the tractor (not supporting weight but trying to "pull" down on it). When they're built right the cross tube will hold all the forces but when it's not built right you'll need to add diagonal braces from the upright post to the tractor front frame area like so many factory built loaders are. That's poor design and cheap materials. Example: A good designed QA loader will have two heavy saddles for the post to sit on and that's all of the mechanical connections it needs. (flip a lever on each saddle and drive out from under it then unplug the hoses and drive off). I've used them on larger tractors and I've tilted the rear wheels off the ground or busted hoses ... whichever came first.
I know what you mean by short of money because that's what halted my loader but do it right and be proud of it ... not scratching your head trying to figure out how to repair it.
 
Brad L

I bet it's a really tough, nice looking finish. Hope you post some pictures of it.
 
Steve B

Thanks for clearing up whether the 1650 is a gremlin or not. I was a little worried.

You're right about the shake rattle and roll, but mine is way worse than usual. After seeing some info about it I realized why. The motor is bolted down solid. No ISO rubbers at all. It was like that when I bought it (back in 1990).
 
Hey Guys,
Can anyone recommend an aluminum rim company? A buddy of mine is thinking of dressing up a 102.
Thanks
Marcus
 
Davic McNair-
The K301 head can swap to the K321, but as far as I remember, the K321 head has slightly less volume than the K301 head, meaning a slight decrease in compression and possible loss in power. One thing of note is that the K301 has the small exhaust valve where the K321 (except for some early ones) have the larger exhaust valve, so it's possible that the valve can interfere with the head. As for the tin, I'm doing a similar thing with an LP head on a K321 and just cut the tin for the differnt spark plug location. Spacers can be used to change the height of the head bosses, just remember to put the hardened washers against the aluminum head and spacer and not between the bolt cap and spacer.
 
Richard C., YIKES!!! Best wishes for a speedy recovery!

Myron, here are the photos of the thin thrust bearing for the Original steering gear and the boxes that the bearing and thrust washers came in.

25695.jpg


25696.jpg


25697.jpg


25698.jpg
 
McMaster-Carr also sells this style thrust bearing in a 5/8" diameter size that might work well for the other Cubs steering boxes.
 
Richard C.

Hope all is going well. I will keep thinking of you. I had my gall bladder out about 4 years ago. (Right before the first plowday). My mother, the college nursing professor, is using my gall bladder surgery video in class next week.

Hope everyone is cubbing along well.

Jon
 
Wyatt,
Thank you for the reply. I will pull the 321 head and compare it to the 301 for volume and valve clearance. What did you use for the spacers to bring the head bolts up to the proper level, stacked washers, or a piece of pipe cut to length?
David in Dayton, TX
 
David-
you're not likely going to be able to tell the differnce, as far as I remember, the drawing for the heads indicated something like a .010" differnce from the "roof" of the chamber to the gasket surface.

As for the spacers I just used a bunch of spacers from tearing other Kohlers apart, don't know what the part number is. I'd caution the use of general pipe, not knowing how soft the spacers are could mean that the fasteners' torques can relax over time resulting in a damaged head gasket seal.
 
Wyatt,
I just pulled the 321 head and did a visual comparison to the 301 head. You were dead on about the larger exhaust valve in the 321. The 321 head has more metal removed from the combustion chamber to allow for clearance of the larger exhaust valve. The 301 head will not work unless it was machined to allow for the larger diameter valve. Thank goodness you guys are here to help us less informed Cubbys. Do you think I would have a problem with stacked washers as the spacers. I have access to Grade 8 washers that should not compress under the 35 lb torque or compression pressure.
David
 
Seat time ?
25704.jpg
Me on my first Cub 1967
25705.jpg
My second Cub (I'm riding)
25706.jpg
The grass I had to cut w/48"
25707.jpg
Grandson & me on the 1250
 
Now a loader with a grapple would REALLY be a nice attachment for my CC. But picking up tree heads would probably topple it over anyway...back to the chain saw and off the computer...
 
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