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Archive through February 14, 2018
- Thread starter mstreet
- Start date
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BTW, mentioned that I did a working restore on the 1650 last summer. In the fall I totally went through the QA32 blower/thrower like I do every few years or so. Afterward, the QA32 spun the most freely and easily I've ever seen it. So freely, in fact, that when connected to the 1650 it would spin slowly just a little bit with the PTO switch off. It never did that before. I now realize that the PTO had probably never been adjusted in all these decades. That's about to change.
Charlie, thanks. So it's just a Generator, not a Starter/Generator? It came with a K241 that I bought from one of my cousins. It was his FILs which he had as a spare for his home-built log splitter. It's supposedly been rebuilt. I just happen to have a roller Cub 105 that this should fit into nicely.
Hopefully it runs...
It sure is an ugly shade of yellow though...
It sure is an ugly shade of yellow though...
Kraig,
That's what number on it came back as.
That's what number on it came back as.
Charlie, so yer tellin' me that I have a NF S/G and it won't work on a WF?
I should have mentioned I guess that the S/G from the 149 is in the rebuild shop and this one is just one I had handy on the shelf.
Guess I'll have top compare it w/the SG that's on the 108.
I should have mentioned I guess that the S/G from the 149 is in the rebuild shop and this one is just one I had handy on the shelf.
Guess I'll have top compare it w/the SG that's on the 108.
David S.
The deal is.
The Delco 1101691, 1101996 were for NF's.
And the Delco 1101692, 967, 996, 997 were for NF's as well as WF's, LOL
Also, depending on which pulley you could have.
Either 2 1/2" or 3" could be on either one.
THEN,
You have the mounting bracket which on the NF's, angles away from the tractor, and the other one is more straight up.
Clear as mud huh! LOL
The deal is.
The Delco 1101691, 1101996 were for NF's.
And the Delco 1101692, 967, 996, 997 were for NF's as well as WF's, LOL
Also, depending on which pulley you could have.
Either 2 1/2" or 3" could be on either one.
THEN,
You have the mounting bracket which on the NF's, angles away from the tractor, and the other one is more straight up.
Clear as mud huh! LOL
Charlie, That's the case then.
I pulled the sg from the 108, fits on w/no issues.
Thanks!
I need to light a fire under the shop that has my 2 SG's for rebuild.
Snow is melting like crazy down here today, +46 on the north side of the house right now!
I pulled the sg from the 108, fits on w/no issues.
Thanks!
I need to light a fire under the shop that has my 2 SG's for rebuild.
Snow is melting like crazy down here today, +46 on the north side of the house right now!
I thinking of getting a Brinly plow to use with my WF tractors. I have a chance to purchase a new one, black in color, for $150. Not sure if it is 10" or 12". My question is, are the new ones the quality of the older ones. I have never used either so I have no idea. I'm in no hurry to need one. Should I wait for an older one or just get this one.
mfrade
Well-known member
HMmmm... clear as mud? I wonder if this could be the problem (or at least part of) with my 169 and not cranking fast enough? It does crank enough to start (sometimes) but will come to a stop when the cylinder fires.
I wonder?
I wonder?
Back before even thinking about rotation when mounted on engine, my friends and I burned 2 cub s/g's on a simplicity with a Briggs. That was an expensive mistake.
Mike, I honestly never would have thought there was that difference that Charlie stated.
Went out to assess 100 more, and the push button starter switch just quit. I'll be looking into replacing that this weekend.
Ethan, just giving my experience. As you can see, I'm missing half the threads on the sides, and those are just 2/3 holes messed up.
Mike, I honestly never would have thought there was that difference that Charlie stated.
Went out to assess 100 more, and the push button starter switch just quit. I'll be looking into replacing that this weekend.
Ethan, just giving my experience. As you can see, I'm missing half the threads on the sides, and those are just 2/3 holes messed up.
Earl-ouch how does one fix those bolt holes build up the lobes with welds and drill and tap them??? Hope for the cub gods to drop a good condition rear axle housing on your door step,massive amounts of j/b weld and prayers.Has anyone come up with a proper repair for cracked and broken bolt holes in the rear axles?iId be interested in reading a the solution? Other than don’t Efff it up to begin with LOL
Ethan, unfortunately that axle housing is just holding other parts for me now. I swapped it with another on dad's 1450 last year. I don't know anyone around here still alive that can weld it. I picked up a load of cubs/parts a couple years ago that yielded me another 1450 chassis I took the rear end from. I'm going to look through them this weekend in search of another axle with internal brakes to replace the bent axle shaft on the 100. I don't know if an external brake shaft would fit, but may try it out, leaving the internal brake on it.
Got a good deal on a new oil pan for the 169. Don't recall ever seeing new oil pan pictures but here's some for comparison. The new one does feel lighter and might also be made out of a different material. Definitely a different casting process. Extra bosses on each side are tapped.
Jim S.
Now that's what I call a great post!!!!!
Now that's what I call a great post!!!!!
So I was able to get the starter put on the 127 today and had hoped that the engine would just turn over and start right up. If only I had that amount of luck...
I checked for spark and confirmed that I was getting spark. I proceeded to pull the carburetor and gave it a good once-over and rebuilt it. Everything with the carburetor looks good. I put it all back together and turned the key only to get the same result (the starter turning the flywheel but the engine not starting). It backfired through the carburetor eventually. I'm guessing because it was flooded.
Does this sound like a compression issue? What else could it be?
I checked for spark and confirmed that I was getting spark. I proceeded to pull the carburetor and gave it a good once-over and rebuilt it. Everything with the carburetor looks good. I put it all back together and turned the key only to get the same result (the starter turning the flywheel but the engine not starting). It backfired through the carburetor eventually. I'm guessing because it was flooded.
Does this sound like a compression issue? What else could it be?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
If the timing is off, the engine can be hard to start. I'd check that next.
Jim S., nice to see that they added some subtle fins for cooling and I suppose extra strength. Great comparison photos.
Christopher, not sure if you saw my post last Friday on the steering column. I measured the one I have at 16.25" which was measured from the top of the cast aluminum gear housing to the top of the steel tube.
Christopher, not sure if you saw my post last Friday on the steering column. I measured the one I have at 16.25" which was measured from the top of the cast aluminum gear housing to the top of the steel tube.
Yes Digger, I am still alive. Not much cub time lately due to lack of funds. And when it snows, it requires the bigger horse to move it since the 1650 took care of it's 2nd head in 2 years. Need the funds to buy a new head. Still lurk every day though.
