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Archive through February 14, 2016

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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3/4 of the way through moving snow at 10PM is a bad time to find out your tire pressure has dropped low enough to spin the tire on the rim, shear off the tube valve stem, and proceed to shower the driveway with 9 gallons of washer fluid.........just saying.......
 
...dang 4 ply Tru Powers are so stiff you don't realize they are low!!!!!
 
Beadlocks would work and look cool too, LOL
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Wasn't really in the mood for photography.......
 
Charlie,

I agree with you. The original design used the standard bearing (941-3056) and the lubricating bushing. It looks like this design has been superseded with the integrated bushing and bearing (703-0600) and replaces both. I'll go with it and see how it compares to the original parts.

I was balking at the price because I thought that it was just the bushing at first. $53 for that part isn't bad.

My brother had the 1000 for a few years before I got it back. He ran it with a locked up T/O bearing for who knows how long. Mercifully the rod from the rockshaft to the lever broke and he stopped using it. I threw it together with spare parts I had but it was never right. The hanger bracket and pin showed a lot of wear. Now I am fixing it right. I hope I get another 40 years of service out of it.
 
Charlie,

Never broke the bead, just slipped it enough to tweak the tube.........funny thing was, the tires are so stiff I was able to finish moving the pile (about 4 more passes) on 0 psi air pressure and didn't notice much difference. With the 4 ply side walls and rim protectors those Tru-Powers are tough.

Funny thing is, who would ever expect to do it plowing snow? Usually you cant get traction to save your _____ let alone slip a bead!
 
Not sure if this is the right place to post this but I'm looking to build a loader for my CC 70 and I would like to make a copy of the Danco RD1000, has anyone ever made a copy or does anyone have one that could help me out with some dimensions.

Many thanks Ewan
 
Bob E.-

The bushing goes immediately behind the throwout bearing, not behind the spring as in the parts list.

I can't figure out why you want the newer bearing...if it actually fits into the throwout arm (mine didn't) it is going to wear the throwout arm rapidly.
 
I hate to display my ignorance, but what are those beadlocks,Charlie? How are they installed/used?

Inquiring minds want to know.
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