• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through February 13, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I gotta agree with Wyatt & Jim..... RED Cub Cadets look best.....
 
Bryan & Ken,
Thanks for the info on the hour meter. I also have been trying to read my hourmeter. I looked in my Operator's Manual that came with my 1650 that was made in 2/76. The manual was printed 11/74, and it only had the information that Kraig posted. Evidently your manual is newer and they decided to finally explain how to read it.
 
I have to say Red. That 582 won't be a 582 for long and it won't be yeller and white ether. Mostly chared paint and weld marks for a while. The final color will be red on red with black accents. BTW the projects name for now is Foxtrot.

Had a good time with Ray Leo today. Man that guy has a kewl job. The museum has some great things coming in the future!
 
Help Needed for WFM Spring Break

Greetings from the "other side"
happy.gif


I am in charge of the Field Marshalls for this year's event. I need some volunteers to help out. As a Field Marshall, you are responsible for helping guys plowing in the field that get stuck, break down, etc. You also assist in giving directions on where to plow, disc, etc. You will also explain the safety rules for those that miss the morning safety meeting and arrive later in the day. The time committment would be for one hour.

If you are interested in helping out, please email me at [email protected]

I am also in charge of this year's raffle. If you are interested in donating an item for the raffle please contact me at the above address.

Thanks in advance.
 
Hello all. Now it's time to put my newly freshened k301 back together. The manual says to use gaskets to get the right spacing. I'm thinking this can create some perpendicularity problems w/ the main bearings. If it's not straight the bearings will wear funny. Does anyone have any tricks for this?
 
Dan-
There may be a little perpendicularity issues with the bearing plate, but assuming that the grade of bearings that are used are only ABEC 1 (if even graded) they have enough play to account for that much misalignment. The main thing is to make sure the mating surfaces are true, really check around the threaded holes for any raised surfaces and check the diameters where the bearing plate pilots into the block.

If in doubt, Midwest Super Cub has copper gaskets to replce the paper gaskets.
 
Wyatt-
I'm sure a 5488 would look funny painted yellow and white, but these are just lawn mowers!
<font size="-2">There, that ought'a stir up the dust a bit!</font>

Charlie-
That 169 looks to be in decent shape. What's this?
15883.jpg

Now that Kraig's been taught by "the guy with the books", he'll come over and help ya read that hour meter!
happy.gif


BACK UNDER EDIT:
Kraig-
Thanks for the compliments on the photo. I'll pass that along to my photographer!
happy.gif


(Message edited by aaytay on February 16, 2004)
 
Art,
That would be the rare optional rear bumper!
Just kiddin! It's a tiller mount. I asked the guy the same thing.
 
Charlie-
But why is the pulley facing the wrong direction?
<font size="-2">or does it just look that way...</font>
 
Dan M.-Kohler has made these motors run for 25 years straight with proper upkeep. To question the design now would be over-analysis. Put it together per the manual and run it. Do as Wyatt says,make sure the surfaces are clean and smooth,using a minimum of gasket sealer,I like to use Hylomar for the simple fact that if you don't get it right the first time it's easy to work with and doesn't get all over the place like silicone. Plus,it's the best sealer on the planet.
 
KEVIN - I've used HYLOMAR in several applications. Good Stuff. I used Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket #2 on My K-241 & K-301 rebuilds years ago. I don't use it much anymore since I found out the alcohol & Nitro in My R/C car fuel dissolved it and rinsed it out of the joint. Probably not an issue with a Kohler Huh? DAN - Like Wyatt said, unless Your main bearings are shot (doubtful) that cover establishes the end play on Your crankshaft; Check the end play with the gaskets dry, disassemble, apply Your favorite sealer sparingly and reassemble Just like the manuals say. There's a WIDE tolerance on that spec. if I remember right, and the gasket kit includes enough different gaskets so You can hit the spec.
 
I'll echo Kevin and Denny on the Permatex Av Gasket and Hylomar. When I worked at Waukesha Engine, the sure-fire way to not have somthing leak was to use the Av Gasket.

I'll agree 100% with Kevin in that silicone sealer is little more than grease that gets everywhere unitl it cures, it's easy to get it all over since you apply it in a bead, and not with a brush. Haven't we all seen shoddy car work where there was nice blue boogers around the thermostat housing and water pump?
 
I am trying to replace the rockshaft on an 1872 I have both pins removed but the shaft doesnt slide out, I have beaten on the with a 10lbs sludge hammer and it dosent move, am I missing something?It appears the U shaped part that attaches to the hydraulic's this is frozen to the shaft or is one piece



(Message edited by bjack on February 17, 2004)
 
Bob-
I did the same thing on my 1872. I tried everything, heat, pounding with 10lb sledge, swearing, etc. I finally got it out by beating on a 3ft piece of 3/4" round stock and a 15lb long-handled sledge. I ended up hitting it so hard that the tractor's wheels on one side would almost come off the ground. Took almost 2hrs, but it came out. I'll email you the EXACT proceedure as too many guys would have a heyday with me if I described it here in public...

Did you bend the flange that goes from the rockshaft to the hydraulic lift cylinder by trying to lift a snowblower? If you did, don't bother replacing the rockshaft with a new one as that will just bend again. You'll need to double it up for strength. I think it was Pat Irlbeck who told me that one.

I posted some photos about a year ago, but I don't have them with me... <font size="-2">hint, hint Kraig..</font>

If you did bend it lifting a snowblower, let me know and I'll tell you about the fix for that so it doesn't happen again.

(Message edited by aaytay on February 17, 2004)
 
I don't use gasket sealer when putting a Kohler together. no real reason to.

Bob , they can be a real pain, get the torch out and heat it up cherry read. it'll come apart then , hopefully
 
I have a snow blade on the front and it was bouncing around "hotrodding" ind it busted the flange off

(Message edited by bjack on February 17, 2004)
 
Art, approx. when did you post them? Were they the photos of the front snowblower lift linkage?

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on February 17, 2004)
 
Back
Top