Archive through February 04, 2017

[kmcconaughey]

Hydro, I have no doubt that you've seen them, I just couldn't find any evidence of their being stock/factory in the various <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> documents that I checked. I've never seen one set up like that in the wild.

 

[deverett]

I was able to buy left handed 1/4-20 nuts at a ACE hardware. I checked at the one closest one.THEY listed it but were out of stock. They were kind enough to call a sister store a few miles away that had them in stock. I went there and got 6. I will say that the second store had been in business for at least 60 yrs as it was truly an old style store like I remember from my youth.

 

[sblunier]

While there may be older units out there with 2 jam nuts.....there is no need to source a special left handed nut for this application.

With both ends of the rod "pinned" and unable to rotate, all you have to do is keep the turnbuckle from rotating and a single jam nut is plenty good enough for that.......

The trick is to learn how to jam them together so they stay (back up wrench).

 

[dschwandt]

Steve, Harry et al,
Agreed on the jam nuts, but I think adding a left hand nut would help stabilize the t/buckle somewhat as most I have seen are aluminum and over the years the threads get somewhat loose and worn from vibration.

With only one jam nut, the left had end is still loose and will only get worse w/continued use.
That plus the slop/wear in each end could add up, and probably does in some cases, to tough proper adjustment issues w/the steel & fiber buttons.

 

[kmcconaughey]

David, good point!

I have noticed the sloppy left hand threads on many of the aluminum turnbuckles.

 

[wcompton]

Just watching from the curb on this.... but if you've got chowdered threads on your aluminum turnbuckle, you're more likely to find a steel turnbuckle than LH nuts.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Wyatt, ya mean like this one from McMaster-Carr? I don't recall seeing them at my local hardware store but then again, I've not specifically looked for them. I do have a spare PTO rod/turnbuckle/rod setup that has striped threads on one end that I should probably get a new turnbuckle for. But then I have two other spares that are still good. Spare parts are a good thing to have on hand.

 

[hydroharry]

David hit the nail (nut) on the head. The dang left end stays loose in the turnbuckle and tends to be floppy, and ends up chipping the 100 point paint job - let alone making adjustment hard to refine. I think it's worse on the earlier narrow frames that use just a steel bar lever that tends to be floppy in the release (engage) position.

Kraig - $7.54 ea for the galavanized steel!!!!! Wonder what the forged steel costs. It's mentioned in the description.

Guess it goes to show you "Some people like a (left hand thread) nut, some don't - Almond Joy's got'em, Mounds don't"

 

[dschwandt]

Kraig, I think the ones on our Cubs are the aluminum extruded the like the ones found in hardware stores for use as clothesline wire tensioners.

One reason the threads get worn easily.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Hydro, $6.12 for the forged steel and $14.53 for forged 316 stainless.

David, the early Cubs 70/100 and 1x2/3 series used steel versions, see Hydro's photo below. All of the 1x4/5 series and later I have seen use the aluminum versions. The change may have occurred during the 1x2/3 series.

I wonder if in a few years we'll include the Great Turnbuckle Debate with the oil, paint, tail lamp lens, Hy-Tran vs other fluids and Hydro vs Gear debates of the past?