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Archive through February 02, 2019
- Thread starter kconway
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Gary, I believe the rod end with the red circle goes to the lever that the rod end with the green circle is mounted to. What is the vertical part that the red circled rod end is connected to? Are there any extra levers on the dash? Is the hydro control lever missing from the dash?
Kevin....
Any Case/IH dealer would have them, or a farm implement dealer, Fastenal maybe?
Doubt any hardware store would though
I buy 'em by the box from McMaster Carr
Make sure you ask for coiled spirol pin
Don't let the sell you a split pin, although they will work...kind of....for a while.
Any Case/IH dealer would have them, or a farm implement dealer, Fastenal maybe?
Doubt any hardware store would though
I buy 'em by the box from McMaster Carr
Make sure you ask for coiled spirol pin
Don't let the sell you a split pin, although they will work...kind of....for a while.
glippert
Well-known member
Kevin C - I agree with David S; be sure to get the coiled spring pin (Spirol pin). I just got a bunch from McMaster-Carr. But I also took the advice of forum members Earl L and Mike F, and used 1/4" x 2" long. The extra length allows the ends of the pin to extend a bit on each end. This will make it easier to remove the pin if it breaks again, and to find the hole of the shaft down inside the sprocket collar. Also, if you don't have one, consider getting a set of pin punches - they make it easier to drive the pins out/in.
Gary B.
That has got to the one of the wildest things I've ever seen done to a hydro!
That has got to the one of the wildest things I've ever seen done to a hydro!
mfrade
Well-known member
It looks to me that they were using that short lever to run the hydro forward or reverse.. but I cannot see the rest of the linkage yet either.
WOW!!! Just WOW!!
If these machines could only talk!!
Talk about "Custom by Cobble Craft"!!!
Check out the exploded views in the parts lookup, that should give you a pretty good idea as to what is missing, which looks to be just about everything!!
1250 and 1450 would be the same.
A parts tractor for that rig would be just the thing at this point.
Looks to me it would be just as easy to swap in a whole different tower w/correct linkage already in place.
If these machines could only talk!!
Talk about "Custom by Cobble Craft"!!!
Check out the exploded views in the parts lookup, that should give you a pretty good idea as to what is missing, which looks to be just about everything!!
1250 and 1450 would be the same.
A parts tractor for that rig would be just the thing at this point.
Looks to me it would be just as easy to swap in a whole different tower w/correct linkage already in place.
Gary, here's a photo of the inside of a 1450 dash. This should be the same as your 1650 dash. I believe the hydraulic lift lever and related parts are removed from this dash but the hydro control lever and parts are still intact.
Gary, and this is what you should be seeing under the tunnel cover.
nothing more, nothing less
nothing more, nothing less
David, excellent photo!
Fabbed up a weight box using mat'ls that were lying around the shop area for the 1650 that will see plow and/or thrower duty the rest of the winter.
Used the lower 3 point and a pair of "Mr. Steins" bolts to hang it from.
Need to round up a few more weights to stack in there yet. This w/the 50 LB weights on the chained up wheels should make a good match for the snow drifts!!
Used the lower 3 point and a pair of "Mr. Steins" bolts to hang it from.
Need to round up a few more weights to stack in there yet. This w/the 50 LB weights on the chained up wheels should make a good match for the snow drifts!!
I have conflicting info on replacing a cork gasket (on a 129). Some people have told me it is necessary to separate the tractor; others have said the job can be done without separation. I'm getting some engine repairs done by a guy who knows these machines inside and out and he told me that once separated, it's not easy to re-line everything back up once the rear is put back in - such as getting the bolt holes lined up on both sides, etc. I can see where the pump could be accessed with the tranny still attached to the frame (I already have the fender assy and tunnel cover off and all the hydro linkages disconnected), but just looks like it'd be less convenient to get at all the necessary bolts by sort of working around the frame. I have all the pictures saved of the procedure that is posted here on the forum, and so have been planning all along to separate the tractor, but then in talking to my repair person last night he really tried to discourage me from doing it. Thoughts? Have never done this before, but I was planning on putting a jack under the rear to roll it out from the frame (as mentioned in the procedure here) and then supporting the frame on both sides with jack stands during the gasket replacement. Any advice on doing this job would be most appreciated.
Thanks..
Thanks..
Keith S.
Doing it the first time, it's best to roll the rear end out in the open and work on it.
Doing it the first time, it's best to roll the rear end out in the open and work on it.
Keith, in case you have not found it, here's a link to the Service Manual that covers your tractor. The section on splitting a hydro tractor starts on page 76. It isn't that hard to do, just take your time and if you have a digital camera, take photos as you go for reference for putting it back together.
Kraig,
Thanks. I had used the manual to get started on the splitting process. I'm ready to go with that. What remains are the 3 bolts on each side and then the rear is ready to come out.
Digger...I'm inclined to agree. As a novice at this particular job, I think too - having looked at it again - that it's probably best to roll the thing out so that I can really see and access everything in the easiest way.
I have to determine which are the correct 4 bolts that hold the pump assy to the transaxle. There are 9 bolts in all in that general area. Also, not certain about the suction tube...presuming that it needs to be loosened on both the top and bottom? The instructions I got here say to unscrew the suction line fitting from the transaxle sump and also to loosen the fitting on the pump, so I assume this refers to both ends. It's not quite clear from the picture I'm seeing in the instructions.
Thanks. I had used the manual to get started on the splitting process. I'm ready to go with that. What remains are the 3 bolts on each side and then the rear is ready to come out.
Digger...I'm inclined to agree. As a novice at this particular job, I think too - having looked at it again - that it's probably best to roll the thing out so that I can really see and access everything in the easiest way.
I have to determine which are the correct 4 bolts that hold the pump assy to the transaxle. There are 9 bolts in all in that general area. Also, not certain about the suction tube...presuming that it needs to be loosened on both the top and bottom? The instructions I got here say to unscrew the suction line fitting from the transaxle sump and also to loosen the fitting on the pump, so I assume this refers to both ends. It's not quite clear from the picture I'm seeing in the instructions.
Keith-
Apparently your fix-it guy hasn't much experience splitting a cub cadet. IMO, it's the best way to do the gasket replacement because it exposes other areas that may need attention such as the trunion slot and cam plates. These plates almost always need tightening up with shims and there's one nylon bushing to check out. If the trunion slot is worn it's a good time to fix that and replace the springs. When it's time to put things back together there's no "aligning" to do...just bolt the frame back to the rearend. I use a tapered punch to line up the bolt holes up. Be sure and have all of the linkages in their proper place when sliding the frame back to bolt up. Having to back track can take some of the fun away.
As Kraig mentioned, taking pics can help tremendously.
.
Apparently your fix-it guy hasn't much experience splitting a cub cadet. IMO, it's the best way to do the gasket replacement because it exposes other areas that may need attention such as the trunion slot and cam plates. These plates almost always need tightening up with shims and there's one nylon bushing to check out. If the trunion slot is worn it's a good time to fix that and replace the springs. When it's time to put things back together there's no "aligning" to do...just bolt the frame back to the rearend. I use a tapered punch to line up the bolt holes up. Be sure and have all of the linkages in their proper place when sliding the frame back to bolt up. Having to back track can take some of the fun away.
As Kraig mentioned, taking pics can help tremendously.
.
in the picture...which of the 3 indicated places must be loosened and-or removed prior to being able to do this cork gasket job? I presume if 1 is loosened, 2 doesn't need to be? Over the years I've tried to tighten 2 thinking that perhaps that's where the transmission leak has been coming from, but was never able to tighten or loosen this.
