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Archive through December 31, 2018
- Thread starter digger
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
glippert
Well-known member
Earl & Mike, thanks for the reply. I ordered some 1-3/4" pins last night, but I like your idea of letting them stick out a little on each end. Think I'll get some of them.
Charlie, thanks for another year of the forum. Happy New Year to you and all the forum members.
Charlie, thanks for another year of the forum. Happy New Year to you and all the forum members.
rvanmersbergen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2007
- Messages
- 154
- displayname
- Ray Van Mersbergen
Hey Charlie, the latest decal kit for an "O" you sent me has a warning/caution decal I had not seen before. What is the proper location and would it have come on every tractor?
Ray M.
Beats me, got a pic of it?
Thanks again for ANOTHER order!
Beats me, got a pic of it?
Thanks again for ANOTHER order!
Wayne S.
Not gonna be me!
Not gonna be me!
Mike P.
Roland Bedell said to post this for ya.
Roland Bedell said to post this for ya.
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2018
- Messages
- 413
- displayname
- Justin Bratton
Digger and every member of ihcubcadet....Happy New Year!
mfrade
Well-known member
Happy New Year to all you Cubbers!
Thanks to Charlie, Kraig and Bryan.
Thanks to Charlie, Kraig and Bryan.
mpatterson
Well-known member
The carb on the Mag 18 was rebuilt as far as new gaskets, cleaning, new float valve I guess its called?? (part that has the little wire clip that attaches to the float). No gas was in the float when I removed it, shook it, full of air. There really isn't much to this carb that can be removed and replaced from what I can see - nothing at all like the carbs I'm used to seeing on ATV's.
Think the gas that shot out the manifolds that hit the back side of the grill was new clean gas? Sort of hard to tell when the POA didn't spend much time cleaning up whatever oil was spilled or shot all over when a line broke. I certainly don't need to worry about ANY rust on the front end of this tractor ever!
Took the air filter off and looked down into that 45' neck that it bolts to, there was about 1/4" of gas laying in the bottom of it, so going to assume the carb is right full of it now. Haven't taken it off yet just out of discus. Cranked it a couple times today to see if anymore gas would come out of the cylinders, shot about 1/4 of a cup up in the air from the spark plug holes.
From what you guys are all describing, it sounds like my carb isn't working the way it should? So I'm thinking since I'm far from an expert on these things, I should either replace it, or get a professional to rebuild it?? I just can't imagine that the pumps are crapping out that easily when installed brand new? Or is MTD producing that crappy of parts now a days?
Sent an e-mail about the electric pump you suggested Digger, waiting to hear back on shipping costs. Would really like to get the darn thing working with what I have if I had my way - might be a pipe dream though! Can't imaging spending more money on a dog on pump again.
So what you're saying Roland - get a really wimpy pump that won't blow the gas into the engine!
Guess that's why the pump Digger suggested works so well, they are gentle I guess.
On a positive side, I did get my new welder hooked up today! So now I just need to do some practicing with it and I'll be able to do my own modifications to the cab on this tractor instead of paying someone else to do my welding! Picked up a Mig-Pack 140. Nice little machine. I'm thinking it will do ALL the stuff I'll ever want to do.
Think the gas that shot out the manifolds that hit the back side of the grill was new clean gas? Sort of hard to tell when the POA didn't spend much time cleaning up whatever oil was spilled or shot all over when a line broke. I certainly don't need to worry about ANY rust on the front end of this tractor ever!
Took the air filter off and looked down into that 45' neck that it bolts to, there was about 1/4" of gas laying in the bottom of it, so going to assume the carb is right full of it now. Haven't taken it off yet just out of discus. Cranked it a couple times today to see if anymore gas would come out of the cylinders, shot about 1/4 of a cup up in the air from the spark plug holes.
From what you guys are all describing, it sounds like my carb isn't working the way it should? So I'm thinking since I'm far from an expert on these things, I should either replace it, or get a professional to rebuild it?? I just can't imagine that the pumps are crapping out that easily when installed brand new? Or is MTD producing that crappy of parts now a days?
Sent an e-mail about the electric pump you suggested Digger, waiting to hear back on shipping costs. Would really like to get the darn thing working with what I have if I had my way - might be a pipe dream though! Can't imaging spending more money on a dog on pump again.
So what you're saying Roland - get a really wimpy pump that won't blow the gas into the engine!
On a positive side, I did get my new welder hooked up today! So now I just need to do some practicing with it and I'll be able to do my own modifications to the cab on this tractor instead of paying someone else to do my welding! Picked up a Mig-Pack 140. Nice little machine. I'm thinking it will do ALL the stuff I'll ever want to do.
bkattner
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2014
- Messages
- 156
- displayname
- Brian Kattner
It sounds like a)needle is stuck open, allowing the carb to overfill and leak into the intake, or b) the float is not working correctly (full of fluid) which I believe was mentioned earlier. Either way carb needs help. I'd change the oil again before running it.
Mike-
FWIW, I recently had a crankcase flooding problem with a Briggs and it turned out to be the float of all things. It wasn't waterlogged but wouldn't seal the needle for some reason. Once replaced the problem was solved.
.
FWIW, I recently had a crankcase flooding problem with a Briggs and it turned out to be the float of all things. It wasn't waterlogged but wouldn't seal the needle for some reason. Once replaced the problem was solved.
.
Michael M., here's some photos of the headlight and tail light wiring on an Original. The first four photos are of Dan Hoefler's Original the last photo is of my Original. And in case you have not found it, HERE'S a LINK to the Headlight Installation info
mmiller
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2006
- Messages
- 280
- displayname
- Michael A. Miller
Kraig your timing is perfect! I just came in from the shop to see where the clips aft of the grill were located.
I got some clips from McMaster Carr today that are already plastic coated; I just had to shorten them and reshape the ends.
Thanks for the followup!
I got some clips from McMaster Carr today that are already plastic coated; I just had to shorten them and reshape the ends.
Thanks for the followup!
Michael, note that on mine I added extra clips on the inside of the grill casting on the headlight bracket bolts. This helps hold the wire away from the muffler. Dan Hoefler got fancy and tapped the holes in the casting on his Original so he didn’t need nuts.
Anyone ever have the center hub that mounts on the crankshaft work lose from the basket pulley sheave on a K-3x1 series Kohler with Starter/Generator? Anyone have a simple fix for such a situation? It appears the hub was originally swaged to the sheave when made as there's no weld that I can see.
Ron S.
Happens more than you would think.
Everyone that I've seen had been removed with the ole pry bar method in the wrong spots and broke it loose.
As far as a fix, I've seen many try and weld'um but they never last. That metal is to thin. ;-(
Happens more than you would think.
Everyone that I've seen had been removed with the ole pry bar method in the wrong spots and broke it loose.
As far as a fix, I've seen many try and weld'um but they never last. That metal is to thin. ;-(
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