• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through December 31, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

dfrisk

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 12, 2001
Messages
6,433
displayname
Dennis Frisk
JEFF B. - All my Cubbies Hibernate in winter. My #1 Snow mover is red, like my 982 but about 4-5 times heavier and almost twice the HP... and yes, has chains & weights. Ohhh...and it IS a GEAR DRIVE! And of course it's a FARMALL.

The weather-guessers have backed off on our snow totals to 3-4 inches this time. Which is about what we got a week ago when they predicted 1/2 to 1 inch. The heavier snow will be around the state line, so you, Wes, Tom will get all the fun. Paul R & I won't have as much to play with.

TOM H. - ANY weights you can find for less than a Buck a pound now days should follow you home. Wish my C/IH dealer would have had more than three sets of Farmall C/H/M weights when I bought them 7-8 yrs ago. I could use another 2-3 sets on my #1 Snow mover since I took the CaCl fluid out of the tires 2-1/2 yrs ago. I got three pair of weights for $185 plus tax. All the "Special" hardware cost an added $10. Depending on how accurate your scale is, that's 850 to 900# of iron for just a bit over $200.

DON T. - Ha-Ha.... sawing a snow blade cutting edge with a sawz-all... Buy a pkg of ten 4-1/2" dia by .090" (approx. 2.2 mm) abrasive cut-off wheels and grind it into pieces. Make a deep enough kerf and you may be able to break if and not have to grind all the way through. 30 yrs ago when I made my belly blade it started life as a heat-treated high carbon steel grader blade cutting edge, 1/2" thk X 7" tall. I went shopping for the best hack saw blades I could find, bought a pkg of ten. Took FOUR of them to cut the ragged broken edge off the blade so both ends were straight, smooth and square. The last six have lasted me another 30 yrs, plus I think there's still 2-3 in my toolbox drawer, so they were VERY good blades, I do use my hacksaw a bit even though I have a 4" x 6" metal cutting bandsaw and a 14 inch Evolution RAGE II metal cutting saw. http://www.lowes.com/pd_349235-29990-RAGE2_0__?productId=3341486&cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-Tools-_-PowerSawsSawBlades-_-3341486&CAWELAID=1220890520&kpid=3341486&"cagpspn=pla"

Hitting that old cutting edge with either the band saw or Evolution saw would have been INSTANT DEATH to either blade in those saws. Saw an episode of Modern Marvels the other day on TV about the Eisenhower Tunnel out west of Denver, CO and their snow moving equipment. They use solid carbide cutting edges, MUCH harder than heat-treated high carbon steel. The edges last a single DAY of normal use, maybe two if they're just cleaning up a little snow.

Try to keep the steel cool when you grind it, wipe it down every minute or so with a rag soaked in water. It cuts faster/better when cool.
 
Tony "H",
Yup, that's a reciever hitch. You can mount almost anything on there in a matter of minutes. It's one of the best things I've ever done back there. Mike Masheris made that one for me, I think he has a few more.
 
Donald T. To break your snow blade try this. Cut a small groove into the two sides of the blade. Then if you have a heavy metal table or an old piece of railroad track then lay the blade at an ever so slight angle and with the two notched areas right alongside the metal table or alongside the smallest edge or the piece of railroad track. (I believe they call the bottom of the the track the ribbon). Now take a big sledge hammer and whack that blade hard right at the spot you have the two grooves. The hardened blade should break evenly in line with the two grooves. It's the same process I was taught that you can break an old piece of railroad track without using a torch or grinding/sawing it.
 
By Charlie "Digger" Proctor (Cproctor) on Sunday, December 29, 2013 - 06:46 pm:
Nothing unusual going on here!
I say something about being off topic and the forum goes dead because I've pissed someone off, same ole, same ole!
As long as everyone gets to do what they want, when they want with no repercussions, all is well.
Just like a kindergarten class!!!!


LMFAO @ Charlie....dont hold back now just say whats youre really thinking...I was reading back and seen this and spit Mt Dew all over my laptop screen....I owe you one !
 
I'd like to find the guy who invented "Slime" for tires........and beat him senseless!!!!! What a nasty mess that stuff is when you actually have to go in and fix a tire the correct way!!!

Installed new tires all around yesterday on my new plowing toy and today it gets the carb rebuilt (soaking now). I'll start a thread over in the MTD section soon to describe the project.....
 
STEVE - I will admit to buying a bottle or tube of "Slime".... about 8 yrs ago and still have it... never opened it and used it.

Nasty stuff!
 
Tom (your last name escapes me
happy.gif
)
If you ever get the weights off the back, take a pic of the hitch.
Looks like The Hitch has a Clearance hole for your rear axle Fill plug. Good thinking.
 
Good afternoon all,
Well, first things first: Merry Christmas!

Thanks to everyone for the advise on my 100 which wouldn't start. Bought a continuity tester. There was no spark on the plug. Checked all connections on the harness. All connections lit the tester. Replaced the coil. Got spark. Got a solid light on the positive and a flashing light on the negative. Still no start.
Took carb apart and found float needle stuck and low idle needles clooged. Cleaned and rebuilt and it started right up.
QUESTION: I did not get a light on the tester on the yellow wire between the voltage reg and the generator. Engine was crankingg but not running (this was before the carb was rebuilt). Is this normal?
 
Can somebody tell me how rare this cover is as compared to the standard full rear cover with out the notch?

266108.png
 
John
My 70 has one of those covers.Mine is one of the first 200 70/100's made.
I have seen only one other and it was on a 100.

What purpose is it?
 
Lewis P. - I'm right on board with you! This Cub 70 I have is the #26 of the 70/100 built.
ihrotate.gif


Could this Cub 70 been off the assembly line on day 1 ?

Saw the notch and was wondering if it may have been for the rear lift, but that just wouldn't work.
 
Also Lewis P - Are there any other "abnormalties" that I need to look for for the early models?
 
John,
If you flip it over to the other side like I did, I thought it may be for a spring assist.
The early ones have a thinner front axle.
 
Yes I know I`am Late but Happy New Year to all my Yeller inflicted friends. Cubbers with out borders; Well said Frank C .

beerchug.gif
 
John B my cub 70/100 serial no. 65459 (#2 off the line) Has that notch like yours on the cover. I think they figured at first that one could remove the lift casting and replace with the cover leaving the Lift bar. Take a look at your grille casting. There should only be one cast finger holding up the hood on top above the regulator. Most all 70/100s had two fingers in the casting to not interfere with the hood ornament screws. Also look at how the grille screen is held on. The real early ones did not have the vertical flat white strips on the sides but fender washers that didn't work as well. Show us some pix.
 
Couple questions. All of the headlight rings I've seen for the older NFs are pretty dull and curious if they were shiny from the factory? I've heard of folks polishing them but not sure what's correct. Also, I've noticed a number of older creepers where the shift handle rubs the frame. Curious if anyone has tried bending the handle to remedy that problem. Thanks and Happy New Year to all.
 
Happy New Years to all my Cub Compadres!

I was watching the weather channel this morning and it looks like those of you who live in a line between Chicago and Boston better get your snow removal Cubs ready for some serious action! 12-18" projected in the next 48 hours!!!! My old 100/QA42 has been sitting quiet for about a week now here waiting for our next batch of measurable snow.

Make sure those of you in it's path be safe and get some pictures and videos.
 
<font color="0000ff">HAPPY <font color="aa00aa">NEW</font></font> <font color="ff0000">YEAR</font> <font color="000000">to EVERYONE!!!!</font>
happy.gif
ihrotate.gif


It is around 4* with a nice wind blowing the snow around. Only Cub Stuff that I'm doing today is going into the garage attic and looking at two 6x12 rms and <u>hope</u> that they are in really great condition. Otherwise I'm going to be needings ASAP a couple of real good 6x12 rims for a project. Wish me luck.
happy.gif
 
20 F here today ;Company coming later so I`am not allowed in my shop today. Hope you all had a "GREAT" holidays
thumbsup_old.gif
.
I did mange to not get into to much trouble .
whistling.gif


Art A
I would love to have that NF hyd lift system
cubwinker.gif


I bet Wayne will snap that because shipping that here would cost more than a few $$$.
 
Back
Top