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Archive through December 30, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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I will admit, most working cadets in my area are using old home weights mounted to the hitch plate. 50lbs can do wonders for traction on snowy days.

For my snow moving needs, I have the 25lb each IH cement weights mounted in my wheels and hitch-up a weighted trailer when I need more weight on the back wheels. Not ideal but it works. danWI
 
Charles, If you sent it to Oaks they will know what to do w/o having the piston. They do all of the engines I build. Just check your ring end gap before installing piston no matter where you took the block.
 
Charles, it's good to have the piston when you bore an engine because there are tolerences built into everything. Some people have opinions on ideal clearences, for that you need the parts up front to check the acual sizes on the idividual parts being used. Please don't get me wrong, any shop worth anything should be able to bore an engine .020 over and it should fit a .020 over piston. The only problems I ever had involved 2 pistons put in wrong boxes at the factory and 1 time me and the machinist miscommunicated, which was as much my fault as his.
 
Jim Storma , Did the balance plate on the crank of your 1650 help with the vibration ??
 
Happy New Year to all. First post of the year, second year in a row.
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what is the purpose of a draft plate on a Brinly sleeve hitch?
 
Gary,

I have never used a sleeve hitch, but from what I found, it is used as follows:

Without the draft plate, or with the draft plate loose, the implement is free to swing from side to side to some extent.

With the draft plate installed and the bolts tightening it against the implement bracket, it stabilizes implement. Not allowing it to swing.

Here is a drawing from a Bolens set up, but it shows the use of the draft plate (they call it a stabilizer plate).

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Happy New Year everyone! May 2012 be filled with plenty of "CUB" time!
 
Well done, Ken!! I, personally, had never run across the term draft or stabilizer plate. A little knowledge to start the New Year with.
HAPPY NEW YEAR, everyone!
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Happy New Year everyone! Hope everyone has good Cubbing in 2012!
 
Darrel Newell I can't really say. I never drove a QL before. I did drive a 149 that smoked like a chimney.

I can say though, using the brand new ISO mounts and have not used the old ones for the top as they were shot. Compared to the 149 i did drive, (if you could get it started), and my 782 The 149 vibrated a lot more. The QL idling, does vibrate a lot like the 149, but as soon as you start to rev it up to 3600 rpm. It smooths right out and doesn't vibrate anymore than my 782 at 3600 RPM. I hope this can give you some idea if you drove a 782 and and a 149.
 
HEY DON T. - I'm here, just fighting a miserable Wireless broadband internet connection that won't work more than a couple minutes. Plus helping SON with a project in the shop hopping up his jet ski. Something about boosting his 6 PSI of boost up to almost 20 PSI. Those people with jet ski's are more serious about hop-ups that Cub Cadet people!

LUCAS - I'm going to agree with MARLIN H., I'd use cast iron or concrete for weight before I'd use any kind of fluid. Miller tire stopped using Rim Guard because it sounded like the PULP was settling out of the fluid and causing problems.

I had TWO tires left on the place with fluid that I spent about $400 to get rid of this summer, new tubes, blast, prime/paint the rims after 55+ yrs of rust from Calcium chloride solution in them. ANY kind of fluid makes working on tire repairs much more expensive. Wyatt C. used his "TIRE BONG" in my shop for the first time to install fluid in a couple pair of rear CC tires. Making a Bong would be easy but getting the fluid OUT is the problem. It's tough to get enough weight on the back of a CC for snow removal but with the limited amount of weight some tires hold it's not worth the head aches when you need to repair a tire.
 
Yes the chloride in the tubes is a real pain but a few years ago I tried the nontoxic RV antifreeze. I put it directly into tire without a inner tube. After three years or so I had to remove the tires from the rim because I damaged the rim (loose lug nuts). The rim looked just like it did when I put the fluid it. The paint was undamaged and there was no rust. To load the tire just put it on its side and with the bend not seated pour it in. To remove it I just pulled the tire stem off and put in a stiff tubing and siphoned everything out.
 
M59 Chippers/Shreddars....
What is the REALISTIC size of branch off trees can you shred? Are we talking 2 or 3 inch around or only like 1 inch around? Just wondering how much use one would be. I am thinking when limbing trees when cutting fire wood - instead of always having such a large pile of brush to burn - chip up the smaller stuff and leave it to rot in the fence line where I am working? Open to suggestions and thoughts please folks.

I know you can read the literature - but some of their thoughts of what you can and can not do with a machine are different from reality. At least in my pea brain head I see that sometimes?
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Mike
it all matter what size screen you have in it the one i have it will take like 1in max but if i take my screen out i can push it to do 2in and it matter what hp your tractor is
 
Me and my Grandpa currently have our Cub parts on the way. I will be the on e putting it back together at my school. This is my first time rebuilding an engine which I did it the total wrong way but hopefully it runs when I put it back together thought. Anybody wanna shout out some tips of advice before I put it back together. Would surely appreciate it. Thanks
 
Richard, Make shure your cam shaft end play is in spec. If it is too loose it will rattle when the engine warms up.. The spec. is in the Blue Ribbon Service Manual..
 

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