• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through December 29, 2003

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Wyatt,
Nice tractor that Super "H". Like fine wine, it's good vintage too, 1953!
 
There is a Cub in my garage!!!! Yea!! man no Cub time for quite a loooong time. Now to get that blasted starter out of Stinky and drain out the 8+ year old Hy-tran out of him.
 
Starter is out. Found that the positive lead was hand tight! The bendix is all gumed up too. Clean, clean... Found that the inside of the tin is painted a strange shade of green?!?!!? Kind of a pale mint green.....
Still haven't found the third mouse yet.....
 
Tedd-
That'd be Kohler's primer, I've found it on lots of parts.
 
14761.gif
 
Wyatt,
Thanks. This is the first Kohler twin I have had apart. All the other engines have had nothing on the inside of the tin.

Well tomorrow, off with the fenders and clean up the Hydro.....
 
Help.... During tear down of my 124, I stripped one of the three locking set screws that holds the pto clutch on shaft. The 1/8 allen socket has stripped. anyone have a good remidy? I was thinking of drilling and using an easy out but I don't think I have enough clearance. thanks for any advice.
 
Dan-
I know this may sound silly, but take some aluminum foil and wrap it around the tip of the allen wrench. I assume you're saying that the HEAD of the allen screw has stripped? This "tin foil" idea will help tighten up the fit between the wrench and the allen screw. I've had about a 50% success rate with this, but it's better than nothing...
 
Have a happy and safe New Years day and I'll see you all here next year.
 
Finally testing out my new christmas present! (camera)
buttrock.gif

Pic of the snow removal crew.
14767.jpg

Here are some pics of my Original that I'm rebuilding over the winter.
14768.jpg

14769.jpg
 
Dan M: I've also found that the set-screw hole become partially filled with paint/dirt/rust etc. Thus, the allen wrench won't go all the way in and tends to round off the end. Clean them out with both a cleaner & a small pick of some kind. Then your allen wrench will go ALL the way in. Has worked many times for me. Make sure you are using a good (new) allen wrench and not a rounded off one. Myron
 
Dan M. -

To add to what Myron said, the ball-end type of allen wrench is not the thing to use in this situation, either.

The one where I DID have to drill a screw out, I had to use a carbide bit and pick the remaining bits out then chase the threads, so it is quite possible...
 
OK, All you out there, who are full of uh oh ... cub wisdom, I need some help. I just bought my second cub, there's no sheet metal or decals left, and I'm trying to figure out what model it is. I do know it's got a K241 in it, and it's a gear drive, so it could be a 100, but what other models could it be? I didn't look for the Serial number but I know that could narrow it down also. I'll be posting some picts for the ugly cub contest when I get it home.
 
Brian S. -

Did you try Jonathan's "Cub ID" site?

http://www.geocities.com/jluckeycub/

Maybe you can pick it out of a lineup...

Remember, just finding the serial number does NOT guarantee that the serial number belongs to that tractor because parts are quite interchangeable.
 
Bryan,

I think Murphy's law state.....<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Interchangable parts are not....<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
happy.gif


Found the stink.....
The dust cap from the starter is jamed and melting on several parts of the engine. Must have broke up at some point and got jamed all over the place. Plus a couple of Mikeyway dark wrappers and paper towel bits and so on and so on....
 
I just picked up a set of ATV tires that I had mounted on 8.50" wide wheels for one of the plow tractors. These are the 25"x10"-12" versions. They should give me some additional clearance to avoid the trash build up on the sleeve hitch. All I need now is a plow day!

Have a safe New Year's Eve and may only good things come to you all in the new year.

Keith
 
Keith, do you happen to have a photo of those ATV tires mounted onto the rims?
 
Brian S.-

10hp gear drives-

Art's Hemi Powered Plow Special Original, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 1000, and Wyatt's old 73. . .and I probably missed a *couple*.

Looking at the grill will give you a better visual indication of what model the tractor is. Also, low tunnel/high tunnel. You could have a 7hp tractor with a 10hp motor. . .or a 12hp motor, like in my 71.
happy.gif


Give us a pic and we can figure it out for ya!

Happy New Years to all!
 
Kraig:
No pics - they're still in the back of the truck. If you'd like to take a lookee-loo, you can go to www.titantires.com and look at the AT489 X/T model. I tried to get the AT489 version (like Tom Hoffman's) but it's out of production. The X/T model is a slightly more aggressive tread and is a 6-ply tire. That ought to give the 'ol bum a good bouncing!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top