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Archive through December 27, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Dave, 4 the picture down. Looking at the bottom left at the break, is there a previous "defect" older than the fresh break? It looks different in the pic.

I would consider using something like 2" sq 1/4" wall tubing for the " new" front axle.

Here's an idea from someone who doesn't fully understand your hydralic steering system. Is it possible that the left cylinder "overpowered" the right and broke the axle? ie, if the left and right were both pushing, the weakest link gives.

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Jeff
 
Jeff- the 'defect' is a section worn into the lower flange, by a mule-drive sheave. If you look, theres a similar wear-point on the opposite side of the pivot, too. Pretty common, from what I've seen, and if you think it probably caused the break, you're in agreement with me. I saw that when I installed the axle, and pretty-much expected this would happen eventually.
Fortunately, I was in an ideal location for the failure- the bucket was down low (landed on it, actually) and all I had to do to restore access, to the axle, was to push the bucket down, and lift the nose up.

As for the replacement, I might make the core out of what you suggested... but I'll likely put 1/2" plate facing on front and rear sides, with reinforcement around the pivot, too... similar for the kingpin locations. I'll likely use an extra axle as the template (to get positions and angles correct).

As for hydraulics overpowering one from the other- no, not a scenario... the rams bottom before the knuckles hit their limits, and they retract farther (in operation)than they extend... can't have both bottomed at the same time. Also- the way the steering valve works, it can't push on two cylinders at once- if one's pushing, the other is diverted to tank. I anticipated all these conditions and incorporated the possibilities into the geometry when I put it all together- didn't want the axle to get munched by that very scenario.

In thinking about it, I just might make the new axle with tabs for mounting the steering cylinders (remove steering forces from the frame altogether).

In answer to Terry's question about the final paint job, when I'm done breakin' stuff, and the gas-torch is finally put back in it's storage-spot, I'll think about grinding off all the swarf and slag, mebbie wipin' the worst of the dirt off, and giving it a light shower of some rattle-can yeller paint. Do need to put lights on it, though... it got darned dark out there tonight!

(Message edited by dkamp on December 28, 2004)
 
Dave, The boxing of the tubing with 1/2" plate sounds like a very strong design.

By making the top of the gussets at the same angle of the axle, it will still give you 1/4 - 5/16 for weld at the top between the tubing and the plate. ( welding in the radius of the tube )

At the kingpin end, you could use a hole saw to cut a radius in each end. If you are using 1/2" bolts, a 1 1/2" tube would give you 1/2" wall thickness. You could add a centered gusset on the bottom.

I'm not sure if you have the room to put the cylinders on the axle. They look to be longer than the center of the axle to the tie rod end. But....You could put one on top and the other on the bottom.

I'm a machinist and work with weldments. The tubing/gusset would idea seem to be the way to go.

I'm just thinking ( typing ) out loud. Please feel free to use all or none of the ideas.

Jeff
 
Dave 2x2 bar stock would be better , send it down here and I'll press ya a nice little arch. You can post your little pictures side by side ... don't know who's been bitc*in' to Bryan 'bout monitor width but my 15 " house puter / monitor has no problems seeing. ie ... in other words I'm wearing out my mouse wheel chasing down your 12 pics ;)

Bryan I wouldn't wont anything on my cub that was a windbreaker ! The driver does that enough ;)
 
Bryan-Ron told me he has PTO's growing on a tree in the backyard! Sure would be nice to see a post or so from him...

Guys-This articulation discombobulation is out of control! Keep it going! Someone's gonna hit the jackpot with a design that will completely re-think the "jack-knife jalopy".
 
Paul F. Great to see your latest project. The abilities and imagination of the cubbers will never fail to amaze me. I still want a crack at that pull plow!
Here's a simple question - on a 100 can I mount one rear wheel weight on the inside of the rim and one on the outside?
 
Charles M.-Yes you can. Your tractor has internal brakes and no brake rotor to get in the way.
 
Terry I got one that is on a 149 wide frame it is nice but heavy and not easy to install.
I leave it on year around it is my snow plow tractor. No need for weights it keeps the rear stuck to the ground with just the weight of the cab.
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Dave,
I found this on the web the other day and thought it might help you with your loader mutt blues.

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Aw, Terry- thanks- fits perfect!

Exercising the Monarch last night... got the axle-ends started, but need that toolpost, so I guess I'll hafta wait. IN the meantime, gonna steal the axle off the Diesel Project and put it on the Mutt.

BTW... origin of break WAS the wear-spot.
 
Dave If you put a heavy strap between the bottom spindle bolts you will keep the axle from breaking. The only problem is you lose ground clearance. My 2 cents.
 
Dave
Bite the bullet and start over, with the Ken Weaver design. Thats the only way a loader should be mounted on a Cub. That would make it a real work horse, not a toy.

Just my .02 cents, I'm not really impressed with loaders on Cubs.

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Yeah, I'll be doing something like that, Steve... I'll post a picture when I get it done. Havin' a failure-only day. Wanted to get the broken axle removed, had beautiful weather for once, and the wife decided to conscript me to rake leaves out of her flower gardens.
Dug out all the necessary materials to fab a high-strength front axle... Tried getting three axle pivot parts cut last night, but couldn't get the ends of the shaft cut perfectly square. Drilling forces the pieces off-square. Toolpost for the lathe isn't here yet, tried rigging up an alternative method and shimming the stock, but couldn't face the ends off square enough to center-bore the pieces without knockin' it off-center. Argh!

Lookin' for a pair of set-screws for the Bridgeport, and the darned things are M6 x 0.8mm pitch... the perfect size that NOBODY has... they've got 5mm x 0.8, and M6 x 1.0mm... can't TURN one, cause I don't have the toolpost. How's the song go... "There's a hole in the bucket, Dear Martha..."

If it ain't one thing, it's thirty-four others...

Oh... and the Bridgeport supply houses are all closed Christmas through New-Year... :-\
 
Why in the hell would a good ol AMERICAN Bridgeport have monkey meter screws anyway ????

Richard you've dug up something I can't find. I've been looking for my pics and drawings on the 'puter of that but they're hiding real good !
 
Howdy all, back from NYC.

I've found that with all cities, the only areas that give me any sort of interest are the "bad" hoods. "Bad"? How about the only entertaining and useful places? I brushed up on my Spanish and dropped by the local auto and hardware stores and bought some tractor parts for cheap.

That made today easy, I was able to put the engine back together quick and got it mounted on the frame. Couple that with warm weather (45*) and I got an easy start up from the engine. In case you lost attention: THE ENGINE STARTED. I.E. WHAT I HAVE BEEN WORKING TOWARDS ALL THIS TIME.

I didn't get to drive the tractor though, I need to tighten some stuff down, get the front end and hood back together on the tractor, trickle charge my battery, and get some sleep.

Of course nothing is ever perfect, the front PTO (pointed out a few days ago) is not to happy looking, but I plan on pushing (not throwing) snow for now so its not a big deal for now.

Speaking of which, I still need a front blade. I might be going down to (west) NC and the "ugly" industrial districts will likely have what I need.

Tommorow stuff might just work. Yeah right, I bet I'll blow the tranny or something else incredibly unlikely.
 
Good job Zach!
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Glad you got it running. If you got this far the rest should be easy.

John
 
Terry B.
Toy comment not ment to be derogatory just a matter of fact. You have large tractors, compact tractors, and garden tractors. A Cub is just a garden tractor and putting a loader on it, adding a bunch of weight and you still have a garden tractor. It's fine if you use it for light duty work, my concern is someone will overload one and tip it and kill himself.
 
Richard,
I agree, thats why I have a light duty loader on my light duty garden tractor. However, I have seen large tractors with loaders which are very dangerous. When I was younger we had a Massey Harris #33 narrow front with a loader. It tipped over twice until a wide front was installed. Even then It was still dangerous. We also had a Minneapolis Moline that loved to pop its own clutch. Nothing like riding a wheelie on a tractor while your crapp'in your pants.

I was only teasing about the tisk-tisk.
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