Archive through December 22, 2003

[wcompton]

Kraig-
Three holes for three Tilton master cylinders, front, rear, and clutch.

I hated to do it, but it had to be done, assembling a hydraboost Cobra setup cost about three times as much as a race proven setup, usually stuff found on upper end stuff like Modifieds, Grand National, it allowed me mechanical brake bias, not just a cheesy pinch valve most guys get away with in SCCA.

 

[rleo]

Gov:
Don't get the cheese-heads started. Next it'll be Packers this, Packers that, etc. etc. yawn. . . .

$1000.00: New/used engine for my Original; wheel weights/creeper/tiller for the 124.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Wyatt, oh yeah, I remember now. That is an acceptable need to drill holes. )

 

[aaytay]

Ian-
Having done the Spindle Upgrade myself, I'm a little confused about why youre needing a hole saw to complete the project. I just lopped off the old cub spindle and had the trailer spindle welded back on it it's place. Does this help?
FWIW, I agree that you may have over-heated that hole-saw by spinning it at more than twice it's recommended RPM. Those hole saws tend to heat up quick!

This reminds me....$1,000?
<font size="+2">MILLER-MATIC 210 PLEASE!?!?!?!?!?</font>

(Message edited by aaytay on December 22, 2003)

 

[kmcconaughey]

Art, because that is how you do it on the Wide Frame spindle upgrade per P.F. Engineering's specs..

 

[bmoore]

Ian C,
Is there a way for the chips to get out, or are they clogging the teeth? Try drilling a couple of clearance holes in the holesaw kerf you have on the knuckles, so the holes will allow the chips from the holesaw to fall through and unclog the teeth. It works on sawing holes in wood. The holes should be a larger diameter than the kerf of the holesaw if you want to keep the chips cleared. Just drill them so the holes are in the waste material, and their outer edges are tangent to the outer diameter of your 1" hole.

 

[aaytay]

Ian-
After seeing the PF Engineering site that Kraig posted, I see what you're doing now. The Original spindles are not designed like the one you are working on, so that's where my confusion came in..

Maybe this thought (just thinking out loud here..) would help..
After removing stock cub spindle and grinding it clean, drill a smaller (maybe 1/2") hole through the C-bracket. Weld spindle onto flush end of C-bracket from the outside, and then flip it over and weld through the hole you drilled from the back side. I'm no welder, but this may be stronger since you're welding it twice around instead of only once.

As Kraig says...
<FONT SIZE="-2">IMO, FWIW, YMMV, My $0.02, Yada, Yada, Yada...</FONT>

 

[bmcmeen]

Dang, after reading about all this drilling and welding stub axles and stuff, I'm sure glad I used Cap'n Kirk's method...

 

[wcompton]

Bryan-
I'm sure glad I've got Super Steer with 1" spindles already for a variation of Cap'n Kirk's method. Took about 20 minutes for the set I machined for the 169, no welding to anneal the spindles either.

 

[jrichardson]

Hey Art, I thought about BFHing those nuts off the frame as you suggested when we talked earlier this year. I looked at the frame, and the nuts, and my buddy and I decided to just drill them out. We thought that they would assist in strengthening the frame mounting holes. It really didn't take that much time, about 5 minutes(including set up, getting drill, bits, extension cord....etc) When we drilled them out, we measured the shank size of the bolt that fits into the 10hp and decided that we would enlarge the bolts enough to have them slide through for more strength, and to hopefully minimize the amount of play so the engine will sit firmly into place. Just mho, fwiw, BLAH, BLAH, BLAH. I am having some fun designing my spacers for the lifting of the grill and pedestal. There are a few things that I am thinking about doing... Keep posted as time goes by. Keep in mind that for now, I am not worried about the looks of anything. I am not even worried about using the 10HP I bought from Don V. that I bought as a "rebuildable core". I am going to mount it and see if I can get it to fire up. Then I will rebuild it when I get the chance after our next deployment.

 

[aaytay]

Jeff-
Since you're at this part of the build, you should look for some dice, or something unique to use as grill spacers.

It would really go with the "pimped-out" look of the Oscar Meyer Weiner-Mobile that you've got there!

 

[pbell]

I had sent an email to Kohler asking what the "EX" prefix to the spec number of the engine in "409" meant, and received the partially quoted email below as a reply:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Good morning Mr. Bell.
Thank you for your inquiry. The "EX" designation denoted our test/prototype engines in that period of time. The specification number is still the same however. You may obtain all service information by clicking on to our website at; www.kohlerengines.com. It is a K161 series engine. Cast iron, l head. A very robust unit.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

Kinda nice to know I guess, since it did not show up in any Kohler info that I could find.

$1000 Cub money???? I would put it on a Cub Cadet assembly line test unit (S/N 526-589) to go along with 409 and 510, if I could find one.

 

[dgallagher]

What is the ratio of thinner to paint using CC Cadet White 759-3264? Thanks in advanve.

 

[sblunier]

Hole saws:

To date, with an el-cheap-o Ace Hardware 4" dia. hole saw, I have drilled 10 holes in headlight panels for "Blunier" lights, 2 holes in a 2x8 for a hydro rebuild stand, and 3 holes in plaster for light fixture boxes............still cuts metal just fine (plaster cuts were made before the last 4 headlight holes). Each time the cutting was done with a 1/2" cordless drill in low gear and the thin metal parts were backed up with 2x lumber for support. I think the biggest key to success is low speed

 

[cmccarty]

Steve Blunier

You've got mail! cjm

 

[lbuttke]

I need a little help.
Does anyone have the part number and manufacture's name for the cat-0 3pt / sleeve hitch adapter.
My cub dealer is stumped as how to order one for me, and I don't have the requried info he needs.

 

[mlarubina]

does anybody have a 45 inch twostage snowthower on a 82 series the one that uses two long rails that mount to the back of the tractor. the brackets are n/a and need to be made.the problem is by looking at the parts manuel i can't seem to figure it out so, if any body has a photo of one on the tractor it sure would help

 

[nfisher]

i agree that using low speed with the bi-metal hole saws is a requirement for long life. the Lenox hole saws i used for the backhoe project are still as sharp as when i took them out of the box, and that's after cutting 77 holes, most of them through 1/4" stock.

 

[sblunier]

Charles,

I emailed several...they are 400-500k files, so it might take a while to download on a 56k dial-up.......just fair warning.

 

[rmull]

How 'bout them Packers? 31-7 over the Raiders at half time. .

I got a Hobart 175 about a month ago, and I love it. I have welded a new jack to the trailer, did some work on the 154 LoBoy mower deck, and have plans to do some work on 44" & 50" decks this winter as well.

Nice to be able to handle 1/4" if I need to for bigger projects.