Kirk Engines, Inc Cub Cadet Used Parts CADET CONNECTION Cub Cadet Specialties Cub Cadet Specialties

Archive through December 16, 2005

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prightmyer

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Nov 8, 2005
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Peter A. Rightmyer
Charlie, Kraig:
Looked into my sprocket issue this morning. The part number from my CC dealer is the same as the # posted by Kraig back in July. The only thing that looks different is that the teeth are longer on the new sprocket and won't let the chain sit down inside of it because at the outer edge of the sprocket where the teeth are longer, the span is also wider compared, to the distance at the base of the sprocket. Pitch, width, teeth,... are all the same. I hate to grind on a new $40 sprocket but I think this will solve my problem. Any ideas on my woodchuck engineering?
 

jsimpson

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john gary simpson
Yep Digger; that's the one. Almost makes me want to live where it snows!
 

tbordeleau

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ted Bordeleau
Peter:

I may have missed some of your interim posts, but I saw the one with the pics of the chain that wouldn't fit the new sprocket. Based on what you said in your latest, I think something is definitely amiss, and I wouldn't go grinding away on the new sprocket.

I don't have a copy of Mark's Machinery handbook in front of me so I can't rattle off chain and sprocket specs, but they have been standardized for years, and that means sprocket tooth profiles, and I find it impossible to believe IH designed some sort of weird specialized profile. Remembering the photo, it looked obvious that the chain pitch didn't match the sprocket pitch. Usually, this is because the chain has stretched excessively, and the chain will then "skip" on the sprocket. On yours, it looked like the chain was a SHORTER pitch than the sprocket. As I'm sure you know, standard practice with any chain/sprocket drive is to replace all parts (sprockets and chain) at once.

Again, I don't know your history; but does this chain fit the other sprocket properly?

Maybe somebody else has discussed this, sorry for the redundancy if so...
 

tbordeleau

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ted Bordeleau
Peter:

I looked again at the photo, and I'm convinced that the pitch in the chain is SHORTER than the valley-to-valley pitch on the sprocket. I don't know how that can be, but there is NO way that chain/sprocket combo will work. My only suggestion is to buy the other sprocket and a new chain.
 

prightmyer

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Peter A. Rightmyer
Keep in mind that this old sprocket has been in bad shape for a while and should have been changed a while back so it is probably worn and thusly the pitch may look off. Maybe it is different. This snowthrower was picked up second hand so I don't know what was done before I got it. Maybe the sprockets and chain are not the right ones to begin with.
I actually picked up an aftermarket Martin Sprocket from Grainger initially to save myself $30 from the CC dealer price. It is almost identical to the new cub cadet part, except it has a little more meat in some spots, 3/4 inch, 14 tooth, and a 40 pitch. It did not fit so I said the heck with it and bought the original part and in the critical areas of the sprocket, it is identical to the aftermarket Masters sprocket.
All I know is before the rebuild, a 14 tooth sprocket came off of the snowthrower and was working at the time, albeit a little sloppy.
Another issue is that I would like to replace the auger sprocket but it is NOT affixed with a bolt to the shaft, it is welded on. Don't know if the QA42-A style was like this or someone cobbed it on.
By the way, we got about 5-6 inches in NY last night, still got the plow on though.
 

kmcconaughey

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Kraig McConaughey
I just got this in an email hopefully someone here can help him out.

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Hi got your email at ihcub forum. I forgot my user password to log on, but hope you can help me. Or post for me. Just got 30" of snow,here in North eastern MN, and my cub 122 with creeper don't move. just put new bearings in the thrower auger. And went out to tackle the 30". After 20 minutes of work now it don't move! Its like its in "N" With motor running And in 1 gear can shift creeper from low to high with no results. with motor off and in "1" or "R" the cub will not roll, but when I start it in gear will not move step in clutch and still don't disengage to let it move. But in "2" It will roll, Will not go in to 3rd gear. Hope to hear for you. Thanks, Buzz<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
 

kupdike

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"The Apostle"
Curious thought for the day....Does Charlie have a sign on his Cab that says " will blow <font size="-2">snow</font> for food???"
 

tbordeleau

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Oct 25, 2005
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ted Bordeleau
Richard, or anybody who might like to chime in:

How does the front axle pin on a Quietline (mine is a 1450) come out? My engine is out and the pin area is all covered with grease so I can't see it's details, but I want to pull it out to address the axle slop.

Richard, your suggestion of clamping the frame channel together at the pin point to close up the gap sounds valid, but why couldn't a guy just stuff fender washers in there? That way, the mating surfaces remain parallel, and you don't "bend" any frame parts.

I am going ahead with the motor mount rail fix, but I'm having the cross-brace welded BETWEEN the oil pan mount holes, rather than per your photo in the FAQ. I bolted the rails in the frame and checked clearance, should be no problem.

Tell me again: Is it easier to mount the rails in the frame THEN drop the engine in and find those little oil pan bolt holes, or is it easier to bolt the rails to the engine first? It almost seems like threading the longer rubber-mount bolts thru the rubbers with the engine in place would be easier than trying to find those little threaded pan holes, especially the ones hidden by the front axle.
 

rbedell

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Roland Bedell
Peter R:

You can remove all doubt, if you have the correct IHCC Sprocket and chain.

Ken U:

33004.gif
 

mbounds

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May 9, 2003
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MBounds
Ted B: Re the fender washer idea: There is slop because the mating surfaces are no longer parallel....they have spread out. Pulling them back together, as suggested by many, simply returns them to their approximate original planes and thus removes the front axle slop. Installing fender washers is kinda like band-aiding a broken arm IMO.

I generally like to install the engine to the Iso-bars first <u>BUT</u> only after I have done the "Cap'n" Kirk Iso-Bar cross-brace modification.
Myron B
 

kmcconaughey

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Kraig McConaughey
Ted, there is a roll pin holding the axle pivot pin in place, see manual excerpt below). The channel spreads over time, Richard's sugestion to clamp the axle channel returns it closer to it's original condition. No comment on the engine mounts.

33006.jpg
 

tbordeleau

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ted Bordeleau
Figures, I never EVEN thought that the axle mount had spread out. Clamping it is. Thanks, guys.
 

rchristensen

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Aug 12, 2006
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Richard Christensen
Ted B.
There is a wealth of experience on this Forum and many go out of their way to help others, however we are all expected to do our homework first, and that includes buying the manuals and reading them.

I would have removed the grease on the axle and looked before asking for help.

When someone makes a suggestion, look at it, check you manuals and if you see a better way then try it and if it works good come back and tell us so we can all benefit.
 

dfrisk

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Nov 12, 2001
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Dennis Frisk
Santa's driving a red Hot Rod Pickup truck this year..... Son's picking up Our Christmas present in a half hour. Miller Dynasty 200DX welder. BIG tank of Argon too.... Do You suppose I can practice enough this weekend to be able to butt weld two soda cans together by Sunday night? Son had a friend at school with the same welder that could do that..... He'd only been welding 10-12 years in His Dad's race car shop...
 

sblunier

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Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Ahhh.....Big Blue!!!!

Congrats Denny!!!!
 

dfrisk

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Dennis Frisk
Next year's going to be worse...... You should hear what I promised the Wife could buy Herself next year so I could get this for Son & I....
yikes.gif
 

sblunier

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Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Sell your soul to the proverbial devil??????
happy.gif
happy.gif
happy.gif
 

dfrisk

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Dennis Frisk
Yep..... but after 28 yrs of putting up with Me She deserves it.
 

kide

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Aug 27, 2006
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Gerry Ide
Dennis:
The test will be whether both cans are still full when you're done. (I'm jealous - my 30+ year old Linde "stack" will let me get down to about 35 amps and has got HF overlay, but doesn't have remote and just won't let me work on the real thin stuff). I'm working on a Miller Econotig as my retirement present to myself in a couple of years (wife hasn't bought into this yet)
 

dfrisk

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Dennis Frisk
I've shopped for this for about 3-4 years. I've read all the debates about transformer welders vs inverter welders on the welding forums. The "BOX" is just a tool..... it's the Guy running the torch that makes the most difference! I've got a 60+ yr old AC Buzz Box that I've actually done the most welding with on stuff. And I've used My MIG quite a bit in the last five years. I've tried gas welding a couple times and have had problems. TIG is so much like gas welding I'm afraid it's going to take Me a while to get the hang of it.
The driving force behind getting the welder is to make Dad's old 70 Cub Cadet just like new again. He's made a few "Modifications" in the last 42 years....
 
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