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Archive through December 15, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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128 will not start.

K301A.

for those of you who do not know me, first, a little background.

bought a 128 a few months ago. stalled when hot. while trouble shooting it, i found a lot of parts that needed to be replaced, and replaced them. coil, coil wire and spark plug were replaced.
fixed leak in exhaust, which fixed stalling problem.

ran fine for a few days, then, the first time it got cold, would not start. which i blamed on the cold.

i tried spraying carb cleaner in the carb, wont even try to start.
checked for spark with a tester, the kind that you touch to the coil wire, no spark. removed spark plug, held to ground, no spark.
checked for 12V at + side of coil when key is on and while cranking, i have 12V.
checked - side of coil, it bounces from 12V to 0 while cranking.

my question is, is assuming it is the coil or coil wire correct?
is trying another coil or coil wire the next step? or is there some other test i can try?
is there anything else i can check that would cause the coil not to produce a spark?

from what i recall when i was trouble shooting the stalling problem, you guys said to try another coil,there was no easy way for me to test the coil, but i just wanted to check.
 
Bobby, Brendan, I went there and looked up the 882 series cause I'm not real familiar with them and I had 2 anti virus programs litteraly light up. They both popped up warnings almost together, I like what he's doing with the site, I have nothing bad to say about Terry, I didn't do it to be mean. I believed there was a problem, didn't want nobody else getting into trouble.
 
ignition switch has not been replaced.

i should be able to jump the ignition switch to test it.

but, if i am getting 12V at the + side of the coil while in the ON position and while cranking, it cant be the ignition switch, can it ?
 
Frank S., If you have +12 on one side of the coil and pulsing 12 on the other side the switch is ok. Try another wire since its easy...but i suspect something happened to the coil. Might also be time to meter the coil, except I cant find the diagram with resistances.
Quick update.. Coil...4-8 ohms between + and - terms.(that should be ok on yours)
7000-12000 ohms + term to tower.
 
Allen....This one ?
182586.gif


Thanks Roland
 
Ryan W
thanks for the info did some checking in the parts lookup . My 147 showes blance gears, is the first i am going to look at. My 125 dont have any the 106 no, the 1450 dont show any in the parts lookup. My o's are safe just got the 1250 and it sounds good. The 149 has the thrower on still sounds good. One by one i will check them out.
 
i will test the coil and jump the ignition switch. i already have that coil test schematic from the time it was suggested i test the coil to see if that was causing the stalling.

only problem is, nobody likes my 25 year old engine analyzer ohm meter, so i am sure my test results will set off the multi meter debate again.
 
Dave R...I wasn't suggesting anything unfavorable. Just conveying thoughts. I went and opened it with 3 programs I use and they checked clean....Don't know.

Can you open a log file in your av programs ?
 
Brendan and Dave:
Probably the popups that are a little nosey.. (one of 'em's doing a IP to geolocation lookup..)

Frank:
Nothing wrong with your meter - just remember, to get a meaningful test of low resistance (measured in ohms, not kilohms or megohms), your meter needs a range that matches...

BTW - based on your overall experience with that engine, what you really need is a priest that can perform exorcisms...
 
i dont need an exorcism. although, i have tried everything else.

i think the problem is, the last owner never serviced it,everything was broken on it. i should have just rebuilt the whole thing, rather then doing it one part at a time.
 
I have a hydro question; I have no experience with them, I recently acquired a 129 hydro, and the Dump Valve Lever is broken off. How does this lever work and with what, no breakdown shows what it works with. And I assume my pump is un-ported, I can find no way to attach lines for hydraulics, can it be changed or would I need a complete trans.
Thanks
 
frank snerd, You Sir are a patient man. If I were in your shoes I'd be looking for a gallon of gas and a match.
lazerburn.gif
 
as for the comments on Terry Reed (Treed) site.

i am paranoid. i have just about every pop up blocker, antivirus, anti malware, anti spyware and script blocker there is, and i did not get any warnings when i visited the page.

you would have to pay attention to the warnings and see what they were. many sites use innocent things like scripts, which can be used for evil things. my anti script blocks it, but tells who it is and what they are trying to do, so i can allow it.
i did get the notification that the script was in use, but no notice of evil intent.
it is possible your block settings are too sensitive.

there are 8 scripts running, which will trip some virus warnings.
 
Kendell,Dennis, thanks,
I did look up the compatability of the neoprene with oil and there are definately better materials out there.
Brendan, I do have some old waders kicking around..
 
Brendan, Terry, I just got back from that 882 page. It's fine. I looked up the log history and it only shows there was a scan going on when it happened. I can't tell you what went on this morning. I saw what I saw but I can't show anything.
 
Frank,

Kohler coil? They had some real bad ones in a batch from the vendor, they would work for a brief while then fail open. Good advice from the group, test it as shown but suspect it is the likely culprit. If so, warranty it.
 
Frank, your really close to figuring this out. You know already you have juice up to the coil. Now bend up paper clip so it fits tight in the terminal of the coil and use a jumper cable from the battery - to real close to that papaer clip. If you don't have a spark there it's the coil, if you do pull out the paper clip and put you coil wire back in. Push the other end of the coil out of the boot and hold it next to the block, if you have spark there your spark plug is bad if you don't it's your wire. Dude you are so close.
 
Dave and others,
Some of the pdfs are over the 2MB limit for THAT site, so I place them on Hostrator which can handle bigger files. It could be that might be a problem - it's always problematic when a second site has to be used. For the pdfs that are under 2MB, you will see the pdf icon, and those the forumer software can handle. And yeah, it's a free site, so the pop-ups are there, but like it's been mentioned you can set your security to avoid those.
 
yes, it is a Kohler coil.

i will try the paper clip test, but the spark tester should have ruled out the plug, i would think.
but, two different types of tests with the same results are always better.
 

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