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Archive through December 13, 2014

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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dfrisk

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 12, 2001
Messages
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displayname
Dennis Frisk
HARRY - IMO, you tighten the cross chains by tightening the side chains. So how can you have loose cross chains with tight side chains?

All my tractors have 23 degree lugs on them. The cross chains are able to nest completely down between the lugs doing absolutely no good. The loose cross chains escape as the tires turn and end up between the tire lugs and the pavement. I bet I have a dozen times every time I clean the driveway where I spin a tire and stop moving because the cross chains nest in between the lugs. I depress the clutch, and ease it out again and the loose chains get between the lugs & concrete and I'm moving again.

If I tried running my chains tight I may as well not even put them on. They will seek the shortest distance from one side of the tire to the other, down between the lugs.

If you have 45 degree lugs or turf tires your mileage will be different.
 
Dennis - you're probably right AGAIN. I've been talking about chains on turf tires. I tighten the side links to the point I can't hardly get the connector together. I use a flatten screw driver (so I don't cut the tire) to pry the connector around, under up and over. If you can do it by hand it probably isn't tight enough. Or if you did it by hand and it's tight enough you probably also have bleeding cuts on your fingers.
 
HARRY - ALL my BIG chains have threaded shackles to join the side chains. Like these. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200499228_200499228

They seem to grow tighter over time. NEVER had one loosen and come apart in all the years I've used them.

I bought a used set of chains for my 72 12-13 years ago when I broke my left leg on New Year's eve. Made running the clutch difficult and the big tractor out of the question. I used the QA-36 on the 72 sitting side-saddle and clutched with my right foot the time or two I had to clear snow. I bought used ATV chains for a 24-9.00X11 ATV tire. They fit my 23-8.50 'Stones great after I removed the OEM latches and joined the side chains with 1/4" NC X 1 cap screws & Ny-loc nuts with two fender washers.

The secret to getting chains to fit properly when loose is to fit them so the side chains are wrapped around to almost the rim of the wheel all the way around on both sides. If I try real hard I can mount both chains in ten minutes. Fifteen if I stop for an Adult malted beverage between chains.
 
Anyone else notice that today is 12-13-14?
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Edit: And it's over 40° F! If these temps keep up there wont be a need for snow removal or tire chains.
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With the tight fender clearance on a SGT, you don't have the luxury of loose chains......unless you want bent fenders.
 
STEVE, KRAIG - Guy on another forum I lurk at had a loose tire chain grab a mounting bracket for his loader and lock up a wheel. He went for a sleigh ride down his driveway. He must have been moving faster than a CC can go. You have to be a careful operator at all times!
 
Steve B - I only ever had 1 SGT (1872) and never could find any snow attachment, which was the biggest reason I sold it. That was back before the internet. I thought the fenders sat down to close to the tires, and they also didn't have that inner support that IH used on the GT's. They also had that battery box that bolted to the fenders rather than the integrated style like IH. I unbolted the fenders from the frame and added a spacer (about 3/4" tall as I recall). Lifted the fenders up so they actually looked more level and provided proper tire clearance. Might be something you want to have a look see, and may help if you do it. You also sit about 1" higher as well.
 
Harry,

It's the front edge that sits close to the tire.... Even with tight chains they sometimes "click" on the vertical section of the fender, height doesn't do much to fix that dimension.
 
26" rubber on 782 with spaced (raised 1") fender deck running 10.50 chains (new set that I wasn't going to let go to waste just because I upgraded to 26" rubber...I added 1 cross chain and a few side links).

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If you get them on tight, even 10.50 chains on 26" tires stay on!!!!
 
.....And, there is still plenty of chain in contact with the pavement, even with Tru Power Ags on the rear......
 
All this talk on tires and here I am lurking with pizza cutter rear tires.
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So am I the only one here who lets air out of the tires before I install my chains ? Then its so much easier to inflate the tires then check to make sure its still a snug fit like the year before ? I guess ive been putting on my chains for so long I know which link it will be connected too...

And BTW....is there a right or wrong way for anyone to install their chains ? I think we all have been doing it so long we get stuck in our own ways we feel everyone should do it our own way. I personally take the suggestions here and wonder if it will help me in any way in what I do usually.
 
Amy J. Kleyla

I agree on letting out the air ; I do that also .Get the chains tight and then add the amount of air needed for the load . If it has worked for you in the past ; Just keep doing what you are doing . But these typed instructions do help the lurkers that won`t ask do the task of install chains with some proven methods . all good I think.
 
Steve B - in the pic Kraig posted it sure looks like the chain grabbed the rear edge of the fender - in fact, everytime I look at the pic it hurts!!! Your fenders look raised up just right. I also like the way your chains are installed. I'd prefer the outer links riding a little closer to the highest point (bulge) of the sidewall but you'd need another cross link to do that and you mentioned using some current chains you had - which look good on your ags and probably stay right in place.

Wyatt C - I'm betting your pizza cutters are spinning alot with that 54" blade on there, unless that snow is just really light powder.

Marlin H - I always like your posts, but I watched 4 of those U-tube videos and Chains RUs does a poor job in my view. The chains don't appear correct size for the tires in 2 of the videos. That guy was really fooling around with the "optional spring connectors" - making them appear harder than installing the chains themselves. I guess the videos give someone with no experience a start at getting their chains installed which was probably your point.

Here is another tip for lurkers - if you kept your chains in a box or bag make sure you lay them out on the floor and that none of the links are twisted upon themselves. Often times when chains are stored they get "inter-twined or twisted upon themselves", especially the cross links. When you lay them out flat on the floor all the cross links should lay flat and appear evenly connecting to the next link. Look for any links that are raised slightly off the floor - meaning its twisted or inter-twined on itself. You can usually un-twist it by grabbing the closest end of the chain set and slipping it back within the next section opening - then laying them out flat again. You may have to do this to the next section and next section until you're all the way at the end and all the links are finally laying flat. I hope my description is understandable - chain link terminology is a bit difficult - but hey, twisting happens.

As far as deflating the tires - well in my experience the tire dimension doesn't change much but it does may the tire a little more flexible. If it seems to help you then do it. It's one of those things that I did sometimes, and sometimes didn't, but because air pressure changes with temp I always checked and re-pressured my tires after I was done anyway.

It might be time to get into some other debate now - we haven't talk about winter oil for awhile
 
Harry-
Hardly spins at all. Smaller contact patch = more ground pressure = less slippage.
 
My birthday cake Cub related
With my grandson and a cool tool.
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