Keith E.: Just out of curiousity, what is the purpose of the strap for the QL engine cradle? Is it just to make it more rigid? I'm pretty new to this since I just got my first cub (1450) this spring. I have already replaced the Iso mounts on it. Thanks, Shawn
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Archive through December 12, 2003
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
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bmcmeen
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- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Shawn H. -
Exactly right. Below is an example of the "cradle" that the engine sits in on later Cub Cadets, note that they used two angle irons.
This is what I used in my 1450, althought the rear brace had to be removed (to clear the blower housing) and some of the lower edge of the front brace had to be remove to clear the mower mule bracket.
Of course, I didn't realize the mule drive wouldn't work until the following spring. Oh well...
Exactly right. Below is an example of the "cradle" that the engine sits in on later Cub Cadets, note that they used two angle irons.
This is what I used in my 1450, althought the rear brace had to be removed (to clear the blower housing) and some of the lower edge of the front brace had to be remove to clear the mower mule bracket.
Of course, I didn't realize the mule drive wouldn't work until the following spring. Oh well...
Shawn:
It's my understanding that the cross brace ties the two sides of the cradle together so that there is less flex in the system. Those out there who know more, please chime in. It's a common problem with these things to work loose and wear against the frame and also encourage the destruction of the threaded mounting holes in the oil pan.
My goal is to capture a spacing dimension only. I'm going to use an extra tractor frame and subframe set that I have around here and create a new frame and engine mount system for the 129+ V-twin. When I'm done with the cradle, it'll be a full flat plate that will be heavy by design. My original design accounted for PTO use of the engine through accurate placement. Since the tractor is plow-specific only in use, I'm going to trash the the original design and get a little more creative. By changing things, I hope to bring the gas tank back under the hood and enable the use of the front weight bracket and run a little heavier. I've got some other ideas for the tractor, too, but I've got to get that far first.
It's my understanding that the cross brace ties the two sides of the cradle together so that there is less flex in the system. Those out there who know more, please chime in. It's a common problem with these things to work loose and wear against the frame and also encourage the destruction of the threaded mounting holes in the oil pan.
My goal is to capture a spacing dimension only. I'm going to use an extra tractor frame and subframe set that I have around here and create a new frame and engine mount system for the 129+ V-twin. When I'm done with the cradle, it'll be a full flat plate that will be heavy by design. My original design accounted for PTO use of the engine through accurate placement. Since the tractor is plow-specific only in use, I'm going to trash the the original design and get a little more creative. By changing things, I hope to bring the gas tank back under the hood and enable the use of the front weight bracket and run a little heavier. I've got some other ideas for the tractor, too, but I've got to get that far first.
W
wdeturck
Guest
Dan C.: There's always one whiner in the crowd but they all look like winners
Here's Avery Allred's V8 Cub,
rchristensen
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- Richard Christensen
Some comments on the Cub Cadet ISO mount rubbers. First of all to my knowledge NAPA has never sold a replacement kit for the Cub Cadet ISO rubbers. They sell a kit to replace the rubber mounts for a car suspension system. To advertise it as a Cub Cadet ISO Mount replacement kit is wrong.
I did not come up with the idea for using the MOOG kit in place of the correct Cub Cadet Iso mounts but I did try them and found they did work and when I posted the picture of the Rail mount modification dimensions that I had come up with I believe I posted the picture of the MOOG kit and said I was using it in several cubs on a trial and it was working good. It was not my intent to mislead anybody into thinking this was a direct replacement. After using the Moog rubbers for some time I felt they caused too much vibration and have removed them from all of my Cubs.
One reason I tried the MOOG rubbers was the new Cub Cadet ISO rubbers were extremely stiff and caused a lot of vibration when installed per the specs that came with them. Later I found if you didn't tighten the Cub Cadet ISO mounts bolt more than to the point where 1 thread was showing on the top of the nut it didn't vibrate as bad and with time it actually gets pretty good.
Through time and different test I have come up with different ways to do the job and have some suggestions.
First of all I think the original Cub Cadet ISO mount rubbers were good and got a bad rep due to the rails coming loose. This can be corrected by doing the Rail modification. Maybe they made the newer ISO mounts stiffer to compensate for the rails but I don't know that for sure. Any way unless you were fortunate enough to locate some of the old ones you are going to have to use the newer ones now.
My first preference when replacing the Cub Cadet ISO mounts is to check the old ones when I pull them out, usually the top 4 will be good as the weight is on the bottom 4. If I can find 4 good old rubbers I use them on the bottom of the modified rail and then buy two new Cub Cadet Iso mount kits which will give you 4 new rubbers and I use them on the top of the rail. Tighten the nut on the bolt so just about 1 thread is showing on the top of the nut. This will give you the least vibrating system and should last a long time.
Another way to go if money is a real issue is to see if you can find 4 good old used ISO rubbers to use on the bottom of the modified rail and then buy one MOOG K5252 kit and use the 4 rubbers that come with that kit for the top 4 rubbers. Buy 4 new 3/8 x 16 nylon lock nuts and 4 new flat washers and mount it like this picture. This will give you much less vibration than using all MOOG kit rubbers.
I agree with Tedd if we do not use Cub Cadet parts there will come a time they will stop providing any parts for the old Cubs and then what do we do?
I did not come up with the idea for using the MOOG kit in place of the correct Cub Cadet Iso mounts but I did try them and found they did work and when I posted the picture of the Rail mount modification dimensions that I had come up with I believe I posted the picture of the MOOG kit and said I was using it in several cubs on a trial and it was working good. It was not my intent to mislead anybody into thinking this was a direct replacement. After using the Moog rubbers for some time I felt they caused too much vibration and have removed them from all of my Cubs.
One reason I tried the MOOG rubbers was the new Cub Cadet ISO rubbers were extremely stiff and caused a lot of vibration when installed per the specs that came with them. Later I found if you didn't tighten the Cub Cadet ISO mounts bolt more than to the point where 1 thread was showing on the top of the nut it didn't vibrate as bad and with time it actually gets pretty good.
Through time and different test I have come up with different ways to do the job and have some suggestions.
First of all I think the original Cub Cadet ISO mount rubbers were good and got a bad rep due to the rails coming loose. This can be corrected by doing the Rail modification. Maybe they made the newer ISO mounts stiffer to compensate for the rails but I don't know that for sure. Any way unless you were fortunate enough to locate some of the old ones you are going to have to use the newer ones now.
My first preference when replacing the Cub Cadet ISO mounts is to check the old ones when I pull them out, usually the top 4 will be good as the weight is on the bottom 4. If I can find 4 good old rubbers I use them on the bottom of the modified rail and then buy two new Cub Cadet Iso mount kits which will give you 4 new rubbers and I use them on the top of the rail. Tighten the nut on the bolt so just about 1 thread is showing on the top of the nut. This will give you the least vibrating system and should last a long time.
Another way to go if money is a real issue is to see if you can find 4 good old used ISO rubbers to use on the bottom of the modified rail and then buy one MOOG K5252 kit and use the 4 rubbers that come with that kit for the top 4 rubbers. Buy 4 new 3/8 x 16 nylon lock nuts and 4 new flat washers and mount it like this picture. This will give you much less vibration than using all MOOG kit rubbers.
I agree with Tedd if we do not use Cub Cadet parts there will come a time they will stop providing any parts for the old Cubs and then what do we do?
A
aka mike
Guest
I ain't the sharpest tool in the shed but what are the chances that the powers that be put Richard C's post in the FAQ? I'd like to be able to refer to it in the future and I can't remember what I had for lunch....
tschweizer
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- Travis Schweizer
I have converted my 1450 to a foot speed and directional control. However I haven't been able to worke out a fool-proof dead mans return to neutral. Has anyone done this and if so is the design available or could I purchase the design.
thanks jack
thanks jack
W
wdeturck
Guest
Here's another picture of the V-8 Cub
tschweizer
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- displayname
- Travis Schweizer
WM, I like yours better ;-)
The picture that William posted below looks like one of Bob & Tom's optical illusions - if you stare at the picture for several minutes, you'll see a Cub Cadet. I've been looking at it for awhile now & I haven't seen the Cub yet but I do have the darndest feeling that I may be going blind. Just like my parents said I would if I didn't stop doing that....
DOUG B. - How are You coming drilling the T-1? We used to use a LOT of T-1 plate at the company I bought for back in Moline around where Keith lives now. It's Right on the edge of being machinable or too hard to machine. Use good sharp bits, little oil for lubricant and run Your drill slow and You can drill it. Probably want to drill pilot holes too, like 1/8", 1/4", then 3/8".
Phillip, sorry to hear of your loss. My prayers go out to you. I lost my youngest brother last March, I sure miss him, he was only 29.
David K.,
)
(Message edited by kmcconaughey on December 15, 2003)
David K.,
) (Message edited by kmcconaughey on December 15, 2003)
