Greg, I'v yet only Primed it after removing various parts, Wheels etc. Nuthin' photogenic yet. I am still re-assembling that 1880's horse-drawn potato digger too and Smoking Jerky n Pheasants. Busy. So far so good,Greg. Maybe in 1 week?
TOMCAT has an 'OrganDonor'. A QUESTION fellas:Are these 2 mower decks compatible for Hubs etc? TOMCAT's original is #441U-1111. This donor is a #44C 03200U152633 I have a nice neighbor,yes?? The wife is not so sure...Ha!!
Thanks Charlie. The mouse pee etc did a number on one 441U pulley and upon closer inspection, that spindle's blade was spinning freely,thus wearing the spindle to a 'no fix' condition. QUESTION:How about simply mounting the 44C under TOMCAT instead and use 441U for parts? Archives tells me there's undercarriage clearance issues??Yes?
You can use the 44C, as I have a 44C I use with my 1450. However, the top center drive pulley, or like I did, the entire center spindle will need swapped to the one that is on the original 44 inch deck, which should be a 44A. Also, you will need to move the left side (side away from the discharge chute) front lifting eye to the outside hole above the front roller (if it has both holes).
I had the original 44A that came with my 1450 the previous owner must have used as a battering ram, because the entire front side of the deck was pushed back. I had bought a 782 with a blown engine to get the tiller, deck and use the tractor for parts. The 44C that came with the 782 was in much better shape than my 44A. So about 10 minutes to swap the center spindle and move the lift eye, all was good.
If your center spindle in the 44A has issues, you can remove the pulleys from the spindles and swap just the pulleys. For me the spindle was in good shape, so I took the easier way out.......
Unfortunately, you can't use the 44C as-is, because the main difference between the 44A and 44C deck is the size of the center top drive pulley (the one that sticks out above the belt cover when it's installed). All IH Cub Cadets from the 1961 Originals through the last 1979 Quietline used an ~1/2 inch drive belt from the PTO pulley to the attachments. When the 82 Series (Red) tractor were released in 1980, IH changed the PTO drive belt size to an ~5/8 inch belt. This is what the A and C designate on the decks. So, if you just run the deck as-is, after you move the lift eye, the belt will slip under a heavy load, because one end of the belt will not fit the pulley, If you use the 1/2 belt, the deck will slip, if you use the 5/8 belt, it won't fit in the PTO and slip. I had this issue with my tiller, it had a 5/8 pulley on the gear box, and the 1/2 belt would slop when you put the tiller in the ground.... and, before your ask, no you can't move a PTO pulley from an 82 series over to your tractor.......
Thanks Guys, I'll let you know. Basically it was an appraisal for what it would sell for right now out on the lawn at an auction - We both know that a Line of cubs wouldn't do well without big advertising. Which is actually good in my situation.
The TPI on the S/G shaft is what threw me. Oh, <font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font>, Threads where I was thinking Teeth.
Tom Choo Choo S - as long as you're gonna be swapping pulleys and or spindles around I'd recommend you go ahead with a complete dis-assembly of the deck you intend to use. If you haven't noticed there is a large triangular steel stiffening plate on the top side of the deck under the pulleys. These decks are prone to getting moisture between this plate and the deck skin itself. You might be surprised once you remove the plate. Hopefully your deck skin will still be in good shape, but you could discover it's quite pitted and ready to rust thru. If it's still good I would definitely de-rust it and the plate, and then paint it up with a good rust inhibitor before reassembly. I don't see the deck cover in your pics (it covers the spindles and belts) but many people remove it and leave it off for easy cleaning. The grass, dirt, water, etc., tends to accumulate underneath it and many people don't realize it's happening, and never clean it out. I liked having the cover on and would clean mine at least a couple times a year.
Under Edit - Oh, and the same goes for those 2 rear hanging brackets. I'd remove them, clean up the mounting areas, make sure the brackets are nice and flat on the bottom sides, de-rust and paint them up good. The brackets tend to cause the deck to crack around the bolt holes so I also like to custom cut a thin stiffener to mount on the underside of the deck skin before bolting back together. The "W" shaped grass guide is partially in the way on at least one side and that's why you have to custom cut a piece of steel.