• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through December 08, 2016

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

mpatterson

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 6, 2009
Messages
1,216
Location
Ontario, Canada
displayname
Mike Patterson
So how do I tell the difference in sub frames Matt? I am guessing that the older IH sub frames will bottom out on the rock shaft better? I kind of wondered about that with this one anyway??

Yes if you can Earl that would be nice so I can verify if I am doing something else wrong.

Do you guys use your "stop block" on the side of the tractor when using the blade to prevent putting it too low into the ground or do you only rely on the shoes to keep it from digging in so much? I know my unlevel lawn and driveway will take a beating no matter how much I try to keep it from digging in. Boy you find out quick how much of a crappy job was done with levelling lawn before seeding when you run a blade or blower over it in the winter! Gotta do some repairs work next Spring! Certainly would be nice to have some frost in the ground.
 
The tabs that go into the QA are longer on the later blade. Perhaps Earl can also measure the length of those on his correct blade so you can tell which subframe you have.

Assuming the float lockout bolt is not installed and the rockshaft is not rusted together, the blade will float. It is not anywhere near heavy enough to dig into frozen ground to damage it, in my experience.
 
So am I supposed to be running the blade without the float lockout bolt? I have it installed now - I thought I was supposed to have it installed to run the blade in the winter?

Yes that would be good if you could measure that for me Earl. Good point Matt
 
Mike, with the blade on the ground, you should be able to pick it up by hand some. Hence, the "float" aspect of it.

That is, unless the lock out pin is installed.
 
Dfference in the yellow late model subframe vs. 82 series is the length of the "ears" that hook into the QA hooks on the front of the tractor. Later models were longer due to taller spindles in "Super Steer" axles. If the blade quadrant sits parallel to the ground with the blade down, you are fine......

Snow removal requires FLOAT to be functional.....do not lock out float to move snow. Skid shoes control depth.
 
Ok so my old CW-36 snow thrower needs a wear edge. Im curious I cant find a new one for it but they do have them for the QA-36 . Are those basically the same ? And are steel ones better than teflon ?
 
I've found for snow duty that using a chain for the lift rod works pretty well. It keeps the blade from digging in to my gravel drive, yet the curve at the bottom of the blade lets it scoop under the snow so the weight of the snow holds it down. I don't use BRS but have had no issues taking smaller bites and a bit more time. Admittedly I have a short drive, but having grown up hand shoveling ~150 yards of driveway in MN I built the house/drive to be short enough to shovel out by hand in an emergency.

Of course the only emergency since buying my first 129 was a blown head gasket that eventually led to buying another 129,
then a 1250...
then 2 1450s.

But I can stop anytime.
 
David W - 150 YARDS shoveled by hand in MN!!!!!!!

DANG - by the time you were done with the first path 150yds long it would already be covered with snow again at the start. You'd never ever get it done!!!!!!

Now, unless you're talking about 1" on a frozen hard surface and you can run behind your shovel and make a lot of fun out of doing it. Or did you have a brother or someone that started at the other end and you met in the middle.

Well, what ever you had - Charlie could really use some of that friendly MN "help a neighbor" right now. He must a really been blasted in since he ain't been posting.
 
Amy-The parts look up lists different park numbers for the CW and the QA. IH-475566-R1 Is the CW part number and its NLA. I found a picture and it looks like it only had 5 bolts instead of 7. The QA has double bolts on the ends. I'll bet you could make the QA one fit. I did find a vendor that has one but it is $80.00. Maybe send Charlie an e-mail and ask him.
 
Amy K - I meant to ask if you've already reversed the wear edge one time on your CW-36?
 
hi guys i just purchased a new to me 1a tiller i just can't bring myself to spend the amount they want for a factory belt i was wondering if a 3v 1400 belt is right and also the reason for leaning toward that is i have no cub cadet dealers close

thanks thad
 
Hey Charlie - talking about tiller belts I noticed on your CubCadetFAQs, under No. 4 - What belts fit my tractor, and page 4 for the Tillers, you're showing "IH-549250-R1 - 7/8 X 143 7/8" Long". I think the 7/8" width is supposed to be 7/16.
 
OK guys I'll take measurements of the ears, overall length, etc. Should I measure the width on my 42 inch blade too!? Lol.
I'll take pics of what I can, it may take time to upload, I'm not the best.
 
Thad we do need to know what model you're putting it on. Also Charlie's FAQ is great. It's helped me many times on several projects.
Harry, that makes sense. I've reversed the edge on blades before, I may try that on my qa42, whenever I can get to that project...
 
Hi i was wondering if anyone could help me i have a wide frame ih cub 1200, and i just got the lift handle spring assist kit for it, but i have no idea where it mounts to or how to hook it up, if anyone has pics or info that would be great! Thanks! aaron.
 
OK, I got pics with my phone I'll have to send directly to you Mike of the blade. I can't resize them. But my measurements are of the sub frame
33.5" from small ear(lower) to forward most part of frame, where blade pivots up/down.
5.625" top of q/a pin to bottom of frame.
Upper part of ear 2.25" tip to end of slot
Lower shorter part of ear 1.25" tip to end of slot. I hope these will help. I could not get blade off of 1450, the q/a is stuck again and with whatever amount of snow is coming, I didn't want to leave dad without his snow mover.
Aaron great model I love my 1200, I've no spring assist though
 
Aaron K.
Here's some pics on a red Cub that shows how it goes.
It will be the same as your 1200.
311535.jpg

311536.jpg

311537.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 311535.jpg
    311535.jpg
    99.5 KB · Views: 134
  • 311536.jpg
    311536.jpg
    83.4 KB · Views: 130
  • 311537.jpg
    311537.jpg
    83.5 KB · Views: 128
  • 311535.jpg
    311535.jpg
    99.5 KB · Views: 175
  • 311536.jpg
    311536.jpg
    83.4 KB · Views: 160
  • 311537.jpg
    311537.jpg
    83.5 KB · Views: 172
Aaron,

It runs along the inside of the left rear frame rail. The front end attaches to the rockshaft with a bracket and the rear has a bracket that bolts to the frame rail at the rear of the tractor.

I am sure Kraig can find a picture or maybe the install instructions.

On this page you can see a couple of pictures of the rear bracket installed on a wide frame.

https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/106/31577.html?1129904345

Scroll down a little bit.

Charlie is faster than me!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top