Archive through December 05, 2007

[lhinds]

Tom that 100 is looking good. Like the tires.
Lonny are you sure you have a fuel problem? I would check the condenser and coil. My 147 done the same thing and it finaly melted the wire on the condenser. So i found the problem. Just my 2c.
Luther

 

[mfrade]

Mark G., thanks! I can't stray to far, the highway is/was closed!! Ditto on the midwest & cubs but, New England has quite a few too although I think Jim Chabot still has'em all!!

Tom P. that is one beautiful Cub! Great Job!

 

[stanner]

Digger...

Got 'em.... thx

enterprise out...

 

[bbrigham]

Henri, Lean burns hotter

Need to richen it up.

Bren

 

[dtanner]

well i had a few promlems when i put my 149 back together. the lift rod won`t fit between the hydralic cylinder rod and the frame of the 149.How tight should the holes drilled on the lift bar attaching piece be. Thanks for help i`am lost. Don T

 

[kmcconaughey]

Roger, thanks for posting the photos. I recall seeing that top photo with the chain lift before, I thought there was something slightly familiar about your Cub.

I went out to start the #2 125 to remove the latest 4 or 5" of snow and the Cub just wouldn't fire. I started thinking iced up fuel line figured I'd try a little starting fluid, that got it to fire but it wouldn't stay running. Then the light bulb came on. I popped the hood and checked the fuel tank, yep no gas!

Funny I had just used it Sunday evening and it ran fine never stumbled once. Glad it wasn't something serious with the Cub, just a stupid operator.

Art, no need to comment......

 

[kweaver]

Kraig - Reminds me of three guys rebuilding a '58 Duo Glide and kicking their legs off trying to start it ... I was #2 of the three !

Donald - I'll go unlock the shop and see if I still have my lift bar and measure the hole ... I may have sold it , don't remember.

<font color="ff0000">Must have sold it , sorry</font>

 

[dtanner]

trying to repair a worn hydro control .Has anyone put new bushings in the parts in this picture. part # 7 # 6 is worn lose and part # 14 rod end is badly worn. I have welded and put in new springs and the plate # 1 is new. the whole thing is not tight as i think it should be.
Thanks DonT

 

[kide]

Henri:
As Brendan sez, could be too lean, it could also be excessively rich, pushing unburnt fuel into the muffler where it's reigniting (BTDT too). But you might want to check the timing, as late timing is often the cause.. and if you still can't find it, look at exhaust valve clearance, as a valve with little clearance will open sooner, putting part of the flame front into the exhaust. IIRC, you said it's got a different muffler - this may be part of the problem - is it more restrictive than stock ??
Gotta run - furnace stack ISN't glowing .. time for wood.

 

[stanner]

D Tanner..
I was going to install a bushing in the #1 part on my 149, but i bought one from digger instead.... If you ream the hole out, you can press a bushing into it. A bronze bushing may wear quicker, a ferrous one may be the ticket... IMHO, if you can buy one, it would be worth it...

 

[dtanner]

thanks Scott, i do plan to put in a bushing and all the other parts to get the hydro working properly as soon as i can find the parts. Thanks DonT

 

[fcurrier]

Don T.: Upstairs in the Parts Lookup in the 149 Hydraulic Lift section are Parts #22 and #23. What's the chance you don't have them to hook to the drawbar? Lots of paint will tighten up that pin - hole connection!

Did I say drawbar? I did say drawbar. I meant Lift Bar.

 

[bponzo]

Hello Members and thank you for letting me be a part of this.

I have two original K-161s and a 169. All need repowering. I will try a rebuild on the 169 but I heard that Tecumseh has an 11 horse full conversion kit for the K-161 models. Just wanted to know if anyone has tried this and what their opinions are.

Thank you.

 

[mgonitzke]

Bruce P.-

Why not rebuild the K161s also? I think putting some off-brand engine in an Original would lower the value. Not to mention a rebuild is almost certainly cheaper than a new engine if you do the work yourself.

 

[dtanner]

Frank, i posted early today item # 23 and # 22 is part of the lift that comes with the tractor. I was given directions to bolt # 23 to # 22 between frame and lift. but thats imposible (not enough room)to gte #23 and lift bar there.I just had that lift bar sent to me and i think its to thick for the cotter key with a washer to hold the lift rod to clevis assy. iwuld like to clen the snow from my driveway and can`t use the plow without the lift Bar. Don

 

[dtanner]

here is now to assembly the lift bar to tthe clevis assembly as per below.

 

[dbellamy]

Eh Don T,
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/cgi-bin/discus/board-auth.pl?file=/106/68843.html#POST104069

look down around the 9:30 post times. Ken has a pic of his 129
hope this helps
Don B

 

[dslater]

DonT,
I just did my 105 this way.
I bushed #1 and 7 with bronze bushings. My pins were not worn at all for some reason. I couldn't find any steel bushings. #1 & 7 parts are very hard, need to be annealed before any reaming or drilling will go on. On part #6 the center of the slot (neutral area) was wider than the rest by about .020" so I put it in a vice and squeezed it to match the outer ends.
I built up the pin to original size (one small area)it is hardened too.
I replaced one 5/16" tie rod end on the linkage.
Now it is like new, no slop, amazing difference.
David

 

[dtanner]

hello Don B, the picture showes the lift bar next to the frame and mine won`t fit there. what could be diferent. Don

 

[mgonitzke]

Don T.-

Why won't it fit? What's preventing it from fitting? In that picture you just posted, I'm about 90% sure that that lift bar is upside down. I really don't understand why it won't fit, we need some more information. Pictures would be nice.