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Archive through December 05, 2003

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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kmcconaughey

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Kraig McConaughey
Bob M., I assume you are referring to the chrome lever and where it fits onto the splined shaft. It would be a major operation to replace that shaft, not to mention that shaft (item #19 in the drawing below) is no longer available new. The chrome control lever (item #18 in the drawing below) was still available in 1998, the part number was IH-401388-R3 and at that time cost about $62. You might be able to round up a good used shaft though.
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Has anyone noticed the cab on the Cub Cadet, a 1450 if I recall correctly, on page 96 of Ken U's book on Cubs and Cub Cadets? It's actually a converted canopy, see the normal canopy below. At first glance it looks like a Delux Cab but then the tell tale fringe gives it away. I just noticed it last night as I read through it while waiting for DVDs to burn. :eek:)
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In regards to the generator idea, I thought about making one for my Cubs. I have one now that has a B&S engine (8hp). But, I think that Bryan has a good point, that it would take engine life from the Cubs... OTOH, I wouldn't run it 24x7 either, it would be only for a few hours so the refridgerator/freezer could keep the food frozen... Now if I was back in the midwest, hell, I'd turn the freezer off and put the food in a snowbank and save on electricity.
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Morning all,

Since every one else seems to be striking out in the snow department I though I would mention that the northeast is getting it's chance at the plate. Last night we were suppose to get flurries, now it looks like over a half a foot where I live in Maine. Undoubtedly we will get it too as I have a FLL competition to go to Sunday.

Then again maybe the 169/QA42A will chase it away...

I'm ready for snow season at any rate!
 
While I was thinking about it, I got out some old literature about sizing small engines with generators. Most small engines aren't continuous duty designed, as I believe is the case with K-series Kohlers. There's a sort of rule of thumb that generator output should be restricted to half the engine's power, example would be a K341 making peak 16hp. This turns into a 12kW engine rating which is suitable to runa a 6kW generator, which is still more than plenty for backup use, at least for a refrigerator, freezer, and one household circuit.

Then that gets all into the other costs to install a box to disconnect the house from the grid and to connect it to the generator; which can be more than the generator itself.
 
Wyatt/Jeff -

What, no well? Hard to flush unless ya power that well pump...
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Wyatt, isn't that what the main circuit breaker for the house is used for. To disconnect the house from the grid? And, with my generator, it has an extension cord that has 2 male plugs. One that plugs into the outlet of the generator, and the other an outlet to give power to the house. Can you give more info on "install a box to disconnect the house from the grid and to connect it to the generator; which can be more than the generator itself." I know that I would want to keep it from the main grid, cause someone working the lines could get a jolt, and it would really work the generator to power that many houses... Sheesh!
 
Jeff -

Backfeeding? Highly illegal
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Got to work late this morning b/c I had to plow the driveway!!!!!! ARRH, ARRH, ARRH.
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Got about 2" of wet snow. The 124 ran GREAT with the plow. WAY COOL!! <font size="-2">Can you tell I've had to use an old beater Toro for the last several years?</font>

A big thanks to TEDD ILL for supplying the chains, mainframe and subframe.
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<font size="-2">(Tedd, I did switch out the blade for a more rust free one that came with the Original. Please don't be offended)</font>.
 
2-3" in Fort Wayne, IN

Hope all is well. Can't move snow in the morning anymore, would be driving right by the baby's room. All plowing done after school and before baby bed time.

J
 
Interesting opinions. All I plan on doing is putting a twist lock plug & recepticle on my furnace blower and maybe another cord to my UPS on my intertainment center. The frig would be a good idea also. Growing up we used Cubs to cut the grass at my parents campground in WI,we cut all day @ full throuttle never had any problems except for engine rebuild every two years.
My biggest concern is RPM drift +-1800 to keep a steady 60 cycles and voltage.
 
Thanks for all the pics & info guys!

Man was it cold here in Charlotte yesterday, never got above 35.
 
Paul-
Mowing all day isn't 100% duty, at best I'd bet it's 60%, likely much less.

As for the 1800RPM deal, why can't the pulleys be set up so you can run at full RPM where the flywheel is pushing as much air as it can?
 
Paul , the drift in revs is going to be your biggest problem. it will cause light flicker , dimming ect. it will get worse when you turn things on & off in the house. you won't want to run anything thats sensitive to voltage spikes , up or down. also running a freezer or frige that turns on and off by itself would cauuse problems. if the engine cannot react quik enough and voltage drops to low you could do some serious dame to them. gen set engines with kohlers use a special gov weight assembly that reacts quiker and is better at controlling RPMs at any rpm not just idle & full throttle like your typical lawn & garden type gov.. Kohlers in L&G tractors are designed to run at full throttle all the time when working , cooling is most effective this way as well as propper gov. fuction. I have put gen set weight assemblies in garden tractor engines with fair success but its not something to mow with. you'ld get sick of the surging pretty fast as it tries to maintain a set RPM
 
I have a transfer switch setup installed in my house so I can power the well, fridge, freezer, blower motor on my wood furnace and the lights in a few areas of the house. I have a Generac XL4000 that seems to do a decent job of powering these circuits.

Jeff, you can kill the guys that are out working on restoring the power if you hook your generator up the way you describe. I don't know if they are still available but GE made a decent circuit breaker panel that they called a Generator Panel, it's a 60 amp panel and is what I installed in my house. I think it was around $70 including the 2 60amp main breakers.

Installing a Backup Generator
 
Kraig, Thanks for the info... It looks like I need to do more research on this.

I think that Cubs are way too cool!!! <font size="-2">now Bryan won't poof me</font>
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Kraig , I have the transfer switch also on my house to hook up a gen set. Jeff any time you go into your breaker panel to power up the house you need to disconect from back feeding into the power lines or as Kraig said , bad things can happen. I had a electrician come out & do mine . . it was only around $350 wiith parts and labor and they made up a power cord to plug into the gen that plugs into the outlet on house.
 
Don V. Ok, that sounds like a better way to me. I am a hydraulicsman, not an electrician. A running joke for me when they ask if we can work on a part that is electrical, "I can dump some hydraulic fluid in it for ya." The looks I get are amusing.
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For the farm we have had a 15k generator for 30 years. When Y2K was coming, my grandmother (may she rest in peace) purchased for the farm a 50k generator and 2000 gallons of diesel fuel (tanks to boot). Dad told her it was unnessesary, but didn't listen. The transfer switch for that bad boy is huge. We could run 3 silo unloaders and the milker all at once. We still have the 15k generator, I would love to find an engine (maybe an old combine) and hook it up for real portable power. As of right now, the 15 and 50K gens are PTO driven.
 
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