Kraig - Oh Great One, Keeper of the Photos - that must have been some event there at Travis'. Maybe it's my eyes or imagination, but in the bottom photo it looks like the ground is catching FIRE!!!!!
Hey Bill "Double Q" Jamison - one thing on your 1650, I hope you got some good ISO-mounts and the cradle mod installed on that K341AQS. I think when you're plowing at that angle the engine puts some extra strain on the ISO-mount rubbers. Don't want no broken rubbers get'in ya in trouble.
Greg L - dang, you got a heated garage!!!! Looks to me more like a popsicle factory.
H.Harry, the tire shop charges 7 bucks for a car tire, so he does two GT tires at a time for the same price. They tell me that nitrogen is made up of larger molecules, so it cannot physically escape from the same size opening as air.
If your daily driver wears aluminum rims, which are notoriously porous, it's highly recommended to fill'em with nitrogen and save yourself the headaches of constant refilling with compressed air.
So for 7 bucks, I don't need old screwdrivers or tire spoons, and I don't concern myself with checking the tire inflation pressure. Basically maintenance free!
.....OR, you can check your tire pressures on a regular interval, top off occasionally with 78% compressed nitrogen (air), and save yourself the trip to the tire shop for the extra 22% N2.
IMHO, the nitrogen tire fill is the biggest gimmick/sales pitch out there...but, like I said, that's just my opinion.....
BTW, just because you have N2 filled tires you shouldn't be excused from checking them regularly. Similar to your oil, just because your car doesn't "use" any, doesn't mean you shouldn't check it to make sure it hasn't started to........
Mike and Dennis - ya know, I think I gotta side with Dennis on this one. I just got a little hand held compressor with an air hose that I plug in and fill all my tires (car, truck and tractor). I like checking them about once a month and making sure the air pressure is correct. I do have aluminum rims on the truck which might be why they are usually couple 3 pounds low. But it don't cost me to much time, no gas to drive there, and very little electricity to run the compressor, and it gives me peace of mind - I don't have to depend on some kid that thinks 40# is close enough to 35#, or 26# is close enough to 33#, and I don't have to wait for the tires to cool off, and I don't have to drop 75cents into the air machine at the gas station (they used to call them service stations when air was free). I see those big banners at the Discount Tire Centers that say "We Have Nitrogen" and I thought the small print says "We Take Your Money", and I wondered how much of it.
Sorry Mike, I'm with Dennis.
To each, their own! I wasn't trying to convert anyone! Simply offering a opinion. As far as a gimmick... I see it really more as a tool, since I'm on the road 3 weeks a month, I like the confidence I've built up using Nitrogen. I have tested pressures on a regular basis and have found zero leakage, that means a lot for me. For my car and my tractor - I like walking up and not seeing low tires when I need it to perform work.
So be on any side you want, I find it works for me!
MIKE - All three of my cars/truck are on alum. wheels. Had one tire on the Wife's SUV that would leak from 35 PSI to 25 in 3-4 days. I aired it up every couple days for 5 months. A new set of Firestone's put an end to that, The Bridgestones on my little car & p/u don't leak, but I still check them before every road trip.
Airing tires up is no problem for me, My compressor is aired up all the time, 80 gal of 120+ PSI air would totally inflate most all of the tires I own. But you are correct, Nitrogen is a larger molecule and does slow or stop air leakage depending on how big the leak is. Plus I've heard it lets tires run cooler at high speeds. That's why race cars use it.
STEVE B. - Yep, plowing at night is great therapy. The tractors always seem to run better in the cooler air, not near as many distractions because you only see what your headlights illuminate. Plus on full-sized tractors, you really see how incredible these old tractors are. The exh. manifold glowing a dull red to orange hot, bottom of the muffler turning color too, the sparks flying out the exh, and a faint flicker of flame on hard pulls. Like the night Dad had Terry Warner of Warner's Turbo Shop in Galva/Kewanee area rebuild the inj. pump on the 4010.. It was a sick tractor! Terry got the pump rebuilt, installed & timed about 9 PM. We had the 4010 up in front of the shop under the yard light. Started it up, checked for fuel leaks, then Dad & Terry jumped on and we headed across the road to the neighbor's bean stubble with our little 12 ft disk. I was driving, headed across the yard, down the road and into the field in 7th gear, 10 MPH when our normal disking gear was 5th, about 5-1/2 MPH. I dropped the disk in the ground, pinned the 4010's ears back, full throttle sailing along, down into the hollow and up the other side of the hill. Dad turned the lights off so we could all see the foot of flame coming out of the muffler & 2 ft long extension pipe. The tractor had NEVER run that hard since Dad had it. I turned around on the top of the hill and ran back down then up the hill and we called the pump rebuild a success. Yerry couldn't believe we were running that fast, but he was used to 4010/4020's pulling much bigger disks, 14-16+ ft.
You are correct...to each their own. My concern with the N2 craze is that it (like so many other things these days) breeds...in fact screams, complacency....... Everybody is told "pay me this extra charge and never check your tires again".......just not so!
Didn't intend the last post to be an assult on your methods, rather a comentary on how the general public is more than willing to "pay to ignore" these days. Glad to hear you are still regularly checking pressures (as we all should in all of our equipment) and that it works for you.
BTW, Most AL rim leaks I have seen stem from corrosion in the bead area, not the porosity of the AL itself......air isn't infiltrating 1/2" or more of billet AL.
And as Denny said...it's easy to run plain old air with the compressor sitting right there in the garage all the time.......I often forget not everyone has that available to them (but, being raised on a farm, can't figure out why.....shop without air is like a house without a door..
Harry B - I've got good iso mounts on the 1650. The tractor came with two sets, so I was able to make a "good" set of iso mounts by using the top ones from each set of mounts. This tractor came with a 14 hp engine - which is what I put back in it. I've got a 16 hp in need of a rebuild - which I will do or have done one of these days. I've also got a cradle mod in place and new snubbers.
The plowing last night went great. Mostly I wanted to see how the set-up worked and how well it pulled. I used a set of 50 lb wheel cast iron wheel weights that flush mount to the outside of the tire - nice for the tire setting in the furrow. Also used a set of 2 link chains. These items were from my other color tractors. The engine barked just a bit when under load and I plowed at a fairly fast clip too. 14 hp on this tractor handles the plow GREAT. I'm thinking I'd need the 16 hp more for 50 inch deck mowing chores in higher grass or if I had a snow blower.
One of the things that I don't like about my Wheelhorse tractor when moldboard plowing is the range of lift vs drop is not as great as on the IHCC's. So if you get the right depth, when you pull the plow out of the ground, it is riding about two inches above it and if the ground is bumpy, you can dish out a piece of sod in the yard as you travel around. I've seen a lot of pics on the IHCC's that look like the plow is really high off the ground when in the up position. I started out with the Brinley hitch in the bottom most hole on the bracket from the lower hitch to the top lift, but my up ground clearance was no better than the Wheelhorse - which surprised me. I used the second up hole (out of I believe three holes) and the plow lifted about 4 inches off the ground, but I still had great plowing depth. Curious to know how you folks set your plow.
With the exception of adjusting the vertical link as described above, I didn't make ANY other adjustments! I couldn't believe it. Usually I have to make a few - but for whatever reason, last night everything worked great out of the gate.
If we don't have rain and the temp is warmer, I'll finish the garden this weekend.
Frank C - I wasn't plowing sod, but just where the weeds had grown over the dirt after I was finished with the garden. I just kept it mowed down. The soil was nice and soft. This is a garden spot that has been worked probably for over 100 years. My boys are the 5th generation to work it.
I've got a GREAT Troybilt Horse model tiller I bought many years ago with an 8 hp Kohler Magnum engine on it. I'm doing a carb rebuild and will use it to bust-up what I've plowed vs using a disc harrow. Once you turn the sod/ground, it really looses it's strength and the tiller obliterates it in to tiny pieces. I'll plant some rye and buckwheat for a cover crop.
When I'm finished with the moldboard, the front blade goes on and I'm ready for SNOWWWWW!!!!!!!!
Steve, I'll admit that I did take your post as a slight!
As a Regional Maintenance Manager for a major water company and in my projects from Maine to the Virgin Islands I am expected to keep up on the latest technologies and practices. And I prefer to test them in conditions that I can control.
As any good maintenance "guy" keeping an eye on fluid levels and tire inflation is basic S.o.P. and never deviated from. And how you dragged in oil levels when the topic was tire inflation????
And aluminum (even 1/2") is porous and air does escape! That is a fact and that's why the OEM companies coat the rims inside and out. As the coating breaks down, air leaks develop.
Some folks take their tires/rims to a shop for repair or exchange etc. and while they are there it will probably be offered to them to use nitrogen. It can be a handy and helpful tool for someone and make basic maintenance chores easier, no-one ever said ignore your equipment! I merely offered my experience with the product!
Lastly, some folks don't have the means for any compressors and all the tools to go with it, but for 6 or 7 dollar investment they can make their life just a bit easier perhaps.. that's all I offered!
Oh, btw... Racers don't use nitrogen "because it runs cooler". It is used because the expansion coefficient is MUCH better. So when you set a tire at 35.5 psi and then go make that tire 130 or more degrees. The pressure stays relatively close. It probably doesn't even make it to 36.
Same idea about winter, ever notice your car tires are suddenly half flat the first time it's 25 degrees outside?
Despite the advantages, I don't use N2 in my daily's or GT's because I'm not paying for it. I have a $2800 compressor in the shop. If I can't use it to air up a tire.... Well, let's not go there.
This is for Frank C up there in Maine where they will soon get some snow this week. This is the tractor that has a 12 K in it that has the creeper slot that I think I will change over to a 14 K with a creeper.My 149 hydro is such a great working tractor that I thought I would use a spare 14 K with a creeper and see for my self just how a std trans tractor with a 14 Kohler would measure up.I might even put on hyd lift for a blade just for fun .