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Archive through December 04, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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dfrisk

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 12, 2001
Messages
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Dennis Frisk
DON - I shipped a 13 pound package last week.... not sure how many kilograms that is... think about Six kilo's. Destination was 250-275 miles away... that's 400 to 440 kilometers.... Cost was $27 US which I thought was terrible. Box was 22-3/4 inches X 18 inches X 15-1/4 inches That's 578mm X 457MM x 387mm.

Back in 1978 when I drove package car for UPS NOTHING had that high of shipping charge except air freight, UPS Red.

SON shipped a 5-6 pound package in a US Postal service express shipping box and it went to the west coast of the US if I remember right... It was $27 US too.

I agree, there is NO economical way to ship things anymore. Going across international borders or across mountain ranges is expensive any way you look at it. LOTS of places only use Fed-Ex anymore. Not sure how their rates compare.
 
HARRY - Back in the early 1980's when IH, Case, even JD were closing up lots of mfg plants around the Quad-Cities, a whole new industry was born, Excess and obsolete inventory disbursement!

The one place got lots of IH hardware. I remember walking around their basement warehouse and looking at ALL the 55 gal drums of hardware. One barrel was full of the little #8-32 X 1/2" long Phillips head counter-sunk machine scres that attached the molded plastic dash panels to their steel framework underneath, there were three of them in the 86-series tractors, the typical dash around the steering wheel, one on the left with shift levers, and one on the right with hyd levers, think there must have been 20 or so screws total. That full 55 gal drum was a month's supply!

If you take that up as a "hobby", you better be prepared, a full 55 gal drum of hardware can easily weigh 3000-4000 pounds.
 
My grump to them was adding the tax again on shipping and the large fee to process.When I ask for the break down they said they charge tax on the shipping . I will be getting the box but they had to reduce the amount For the shipping that they had charge me tax on and they reduce there fee also.Canada post has an agreement with US mail to have brokerage fee and will just charge the tax for the area that the item will be delivered to.
 
Don T.
Have whoever your dealing with send the parts as Returned Goods and leave the invoice out of the box!
 
Hey - on the shipping stuff you can always support your local US Post Office by using Priority Mail Flat Rate Boxes - "If it fits, it ships" with NO weight limit (except #70 for International, which I guess would include Canada) - All for one (small, medium or large) flat rate fee. Remember, your US Postal Service needs your support and your business. They'd be making money if Congress wasn't requiring them to set aside 10 years of retirement funds in 4 years, forcing them to go broke.
 
Harry B.
Flat rate international is not the same as lower 48 Flat Rate.
1 pound US Flat Rate is $5.15.
International 1 pound Flat Rate is $23.25.
 
I sent Donny T a small FR box it was $12.95 for less than a lb.But I am not sure what he paid when he picked it up.

Keeping it on topic...picked up a set of original head light clamps at the Case IH Dealer today...and a calender.
 
Advice needed,
Hope im in the right area. The boy and I are building a 782 just for plowing snow. We have a sims hard cab that we are wanting to put warning lights on it a back up light and one of those plug in defrost heater in also. Maybe even a radio.Also want to move the headlights from the grill to up on the cab. My question is will the cahrging system handle that kina load or will we burn it up? I was going to make a bracket to put a deep cycle battery on the back to try to help. Any info would help Thanks JIm
 
Hoping to get some cub work done SOON! Notice I said hope..... If I keep waiting, the snow will get here before the finished plow will.

On the shipping issue, I sent a carburetor (18 lbs.)to a guy in Hawaii from North Carolina for a little over 50 bucks which included $1000 insurance through USPS. They have a nice website that can calculate your shipping costs + options. I could have cut my rate in half if I could have gotten it in a flat rate box!
 
"Hey Charlie... Look at that bird over there. It's behind you, way over your right shoulder!"

<font size="-2">(Now that I have Charlie distracted, looking for a bird, I can post an off-topic pic without getting him upset.)</font>
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Jim-
Just a comment regarding your post. I would HIGHLY recommend mounting the headlights out on the snowblower, rather than up on the cab as you mentioned, so that they are IN FRONT of the plume of bright white snow coming out of the thrower/blower.

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In my experience, any lights that are mounted between the driver and the chute of snow do nothing but reflect off the white snow coming out of the chute, throwing light back into the driver's face, blinding him from seeing the road or driveway ahead. In the picture above, I've disconnected the factory headlights and ran an extension-lead from the original headlight harness out to the lights mounted on the front of the blower. In this situation the original headlights become "dummies" and the original dash-switch now controls the lights out in front.

I honestly never thought these lights would survive being mounted out on the front the blower like this, but these are the original bulbs. I don't do a lot of snow-removal, but these bulbs have been through about 10 snow-seasons now and are still going strong.
 
Lewis Palma

got it last Friday with no extra fees involved. Canada post and US mail have an agreement on shipping that keep shipping rates lower than the rest.

Jim Harder

What you want to do is not possible with the system that tractor has to make power. BUT if you were to extend the hydro shaft out of the rear of the tractor and run a small alternator you could do it. I think led`s would be the better light of choice because of there small power draw.When I bought my 1512 Diesel it had a car alternator install running off the back pulley of the engine. I know by the drill holes for switches everywhere he had a hard cab and many lights.I think He gave up on the tractor because of drive shafts breakage . He had a mess made and that forced me to install a CV drive shaft from an 1862. I can`t break that shaft.The small end that sticks out through the back of the hydro could be extended with another shaft that could run the alternator.With big style car battery you could run all the lights you have a need for. The correct police will hate my comments ! but necessity is the mother of invention.The small alt I have here has it`s own charge controller so it would not over charge the battery. Just a thought
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Home of the Plow Special

Art;I think the stock tractor lights don`t work well because the chute for the snow blower is in the way when the chute is rotated . I do like your set up and wish I had a Cab over here .
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Jim,

You have about 15-20 amps of useable electric power for accessories, depending on the charge stator installed by Kohler.

2x factory headlamps at 35W each = 6A

PTO Clutch = 5-8A(guess)

Ignition = 1A if KT17 engine (none if Mag)

2x more on cab, make sure they are only 35W and not 55W, = another 6A

Any reasonable heater = 2-300W = 17-25A

Radio = 2A

And you run out of power REAL QUICK
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Don-
I agree, when you turn the chute, it does get in the way, plus the snow never comes out of the blower in stream, it's more like a FOG of snow coming out and it just makes for a white, reflective mess!

Thanks for the comments on the cab. I feel really lucky to have found this one, and have a couple of forum members to thank for pointing it out to me when it was for sale.

I like that idea you mention about running an alternator off the BACK of the hydro pump. Steve's right, a guy runs out of AMPS real quick. Hhmmm...
 
Don,

It's more than the chute, it's the snow as well.

Art makes a good point about lights out front, but if you get in deep snow or drifts you can loose your light fast with lights mounted on the thrower (snow blocks it all). Get them up high on the front and they get prone to damage. It's all a giant compromise.

I'd like to run a little more light, but am still working out the details (soft cab mounting locations are more of a challenge)
 
WAIT, STOP THE FORUM! I had no idea that David Kirk would consider rebuilding our engines?!?! There is hope after all...sweet.
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Can I box mine up now? J/K.
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Sorry David, I know you must be very swamped with work. Love reading your articles though!
 
Hmmm, Art, Marty, Don, Steve Mr. Plow, et al - on this thing about lights and a thrower - when I used a QA42A on my 1450 at night I never really had a problem seeing that I recall. I'm thinking part of the issue depends on the combination of the model tractor and thrower units themselves. If I recall correctly my QA42A chute was very close to the front grill of the 1450 even when rotated. I believe the chute actually blocks one or part of one of the lights depending on how the chute is rotated. I agree there is quite a plume, and I didn't have a cab so the snowy mist really covered me (I wore a type of nylon wet suit covering just about everything except my eyes). I see the big 450(?) thrower Art has sits a little farther in front of the tractor than I think my QA42A did, and I think Art's set up may result in the plume/mist being somewhat in front of the tractor lights, but on my unit the snow didn't exit the chute until past the lights. Also, I don't think I ever kept the chute rotated directly to the front causing a plume and mist directly in front of me. I believe I always rotated the chute at least 45 degrees and probably more, off straight ahead - and I think this allowed at least one of my headlights to shine clear in front of me. Is it possible this is one of those jobs you have to try and see what works for you? And by the way, I lived in a rural area of CT that didn't have street lights. I had a couple outside lights on my house but they didn't really shine on the driveway, so all my light was really from my tractor. (Boy I miss throwing snow. Where is Kraig, Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos, when you need him. He has daylight pics of my thrower in action, although the snow was really wet and heavy)
 
Charlie-
Look!...Over there.... A butterfly!
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Harry-
Take a look at the bottom of the previously archived page and you'll see a pic of my snow rig and the "mist of snow" I mentioned. Even if that pic been taken from a straight-on perspective, one of the tractor's original headlights would still have been completely blocked by the chute and resulting snow-plume. I think you're right in that the situation isn't as bad with the earlier single-stage throwers.

Steve-
I'm guessing those lights on the front of my snowblower are 16-18" off the ground. Do you REALLY get in a lot of situations where you're stuffing those lights deep into the snow?!?!?!
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I hear ya on the soft-cabs being tough to find locations to mount lights. Just before I sold mine I was envisioning an inner structure of steel that tied the rear-uprights, roof crossbars, and some added steel uprights that ran on either side of the windshield almost like a roll-cage in a race car. The purpose was to stiffen the structure and also allow places to mount some small lights front and back up high. Time to get out the BLUE BOX!
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Home of the Plow Special

The alternator would be simple to connect with two lovejoy couplings and a short section of shaft.A IH weight box to hold the larger battery
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. Then you could use the strong weight box to mount the alt.I bet you could get 100 amps that way. You could run a search light with that much power lol.

On my tractor I have thought of using the mower disconnect reverse switch to run reverse lights on my 1512.So many ideas and so little time to get them all done is my problem .
 
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