Archive through December 04, 2012

[jharder]

Hey guys,
Thanks for the info. I doubt I would be doing alot of nite time snowblowing so the lights wouldnt be on all the time.On the heater i just thought it would help warm the cab up to clear the windows. Then shut it off once the tractor heat starts working with me.Although i got enuff stuff laying around to make a alt. like suggested.Thanks for all the info Jim

 

[mpatterson]

Jim, I'd like to see pictures of your set up as you go along. I am doing the same thing, but pretty sure I am going to have to find a super frame for my Sims cab to fit on? Pretty sure its for a super.

Home of the Plow Special,
How about some more pictures of your snow removal Cub? I am liking them lights you have on the blower. My cab already has them on the front that I am going to be mounting, but I do like the idea of lights on the blower too. What type of cab do you have on your tractor? Like to see the set up of it too if you have more pictures?
Anyone have more input as to how much lighting these cubs can handle? The cab I bought has the two white lights on the front of cab, red clearance lights on the back as well as a blue rotating beacon. WOW! Seems like a lot of power needed to run them as well as the wiper motor. And I was thinking I might need a fan to keep windows clean from moisture?? Might be WAY too much for the tractor?

 

[dfrisk]

DON & ALL - While it's true that LED lights don't take much power, I'm not sure they'd be the right light for a snow blower/thrower tractor. Friend of mine who drives semi for UPS says UPS is considering going back to sealed beam trailer & clearance lights because the LED lights typically put on new trailers don't generate enough heat to melt off snow in winter and cover over the lights. That results in next to NO lights on their trucks on snowy roads. I followed a semi 30 miles in one of our worst snow storms 5-6 yrs ago around dusk and I could barely tell when he stepped on his brakes the LED tail lights were so covered with snow. The conventional lights and sealed beams were much better at staying clear. Plus they typically are a very "directional" light, a narrow focused beam with little light to the sides. Not what you want/need for most snow clearing activities. If you mounted them far enough away from the blower/thrower then having them get covered with snow wouldn't be as much of an issue.

While it would be nice to have a warm dry enclosure when clearing snow, I don't miss the shower of snow out of my old QA-36 blower at all. I switched to ALL blades for my snow removal jobs in winter about 15 yrs ago and never intend to switch back to a blower/thrower. I get more seat time on my old FARMALL's in winter than any other time of the year... well, Most winters... Last year I don't think I had the Super H out one time. I did mount a pair of fog lights above and behind the blade mostly so I could be "Seen" better than to actually see but never got to use them. At the speeds I push snow there's no billowing clouds of blowing snow.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Denny, I recall reading about some town that switched their stop lights to LED lights, the snow would not melt off and caused all sorts of traffic issues.

Harry,

Here's a photo and a few screen captures from a video I took in 2007 from the cab on my 125 while clearing snow. And one of the exterior showing the lights. (Please note that normally I do not get off of the tractor with the QA42 or any attachment running but I did so here on purpose as I wanted to take a video of it running and I snapped a couple of still shots at the same time.) In addition to the OEM headlights, I have an extra set of headlights mounted higher up and wider on the side of the grill casting on 1x1 square tubing. They were on it when I bought it. They do help light up the area even with some light reflecting off of the snow. Most of the reflection comes from the OEM headlights and from the high mounted one on the side that snow is being thrown to..

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's some of it from outside during the same snow event. You can see how the light shines on the snow on the ground well ahead of the tractor.

 

[mpatterson]

WOW! Does it ever reflect the light back at you off the snow. I guess I never really thought about that happening? Do you guys have much problems with the cab fogging up inside? I am thinking it wouldn't be too bad with the soft cabs, but the hard shelled ones are a little more air tight. Just pondering the fan thing. Would be a little difficult to run around with the door open to get some air circulating.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Mike, I believe the photos actually make the light reflection look worse than it really is. Once in a great while I'll have some fogging issues. More of a problem is wet snow sticking to the outside of the windshield. In the bottom two photos from the inside cab view, you can see some snow sticking to the outside of the windshield. In the bottom photo showing the outside of the cab and the lights, you can see where the snow has blown back on the cab and hood.

 

[thoffman]

This might be one of the few times that I will have to disagree with you. It looks like "Plow vs Thrower/Blower" will have to join the Great debate of "Gear drive vs Hydro".

IMHO, I think the snow thrower/blower is the best to go. Once you get a windrow of size next to the area you are clearing you're in trouble. Yes you can get a bigger machine to push it back, but sometimes you don't have that option. With the thrower/blower you're good to go by placing the snow several feet/yards away from the first time.

Another consideration is if you don't have the area to pick up speed the plow sucks. For me I don't have a large enough area to be pushing back, so thrower/blower works for me.

I do agree that working with the plow will get you more seat time, but when it's c-c-c-cold, I'd rather inside looking out. The snow spray/shower isn't to my liking either but that's the give and take of it.

I guess it all depends on your situation.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Before I had the cab for winter use on the #2 125 I would wear the same outfit I would wear snowmobiling, including the full face helmet. Worked great to protect me from the snow that would blow back at me. I much prefer the cab.

 

[jbaker]

Like Tom said depends on your situation, I have a gravel drive on a gravel road, so my QA36 flings rock which is bad for everything involved. My push blade works best for this, but I have used the thrower on deep drifts and just try to keep the blower lifted slightly.

When the ground is frozen HARD then the rock flinging is not as bad.

 

[jbaker]

Does anyone have a suggestion on how to save this lighting switch after the tab broke off?

 

[jbaker]

Also one more post, While working on my light set up for the 169 I found this mounted to the steering column

 

[proessler]

Finally got Ez Vac off yesterday & mounted QA42A snowthrower. Stored #4 IH cart, EZ Vac, & 50C deck for winter. Even got IH Cadet 526 tiller started to run gas stabilizer thru carb & did a little tilling in cornfield for tiller exercise.
Put Cat. O 3 point arms back on to mount A-Frame weight bracket & weights for snow duties. Maybe today tire chains & soft cab if Xmas decorations don't overwhelm and/or frustrate me.
Still have block heater to install. I guess I'm waiting for colder weather...

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jeff, that would be the later style hydraulic control valve mounting plate. The older valve would mount to the side of the dash tower.

 

[jbaker]

Kraig I removed it thinking it was a PO mod, The hydraulic setup I plan on using is from a early 149, so I probaly wont need the plate what do you think?

 

[dfrisk]

JEFF - Frankly,... I'd replace it. You could take it apart to resolder the lug back on but I've had old switches like that catch on fire on my CC's before. The contacts inside vibrate and make and break contact real fast and get hot.

TOM H. - The first couple snows are the hardest to push. The ground isn't frozen hard and I push the snow W-A-Y back. Have to be careful to not excavate the yard. I've found room for 100+ inches of snow around my place. Using a blade I can't "Carry" snow well without switching back to a loader bucket but now with two tractors/loaders I'd just switch tractors.

Several years ago before the County started putting up snow fence across the road my mailbox would drift in really bad and the mailman would fly on by. I had to switch to the bucket and dig a bunch of snow away from around the mailbox one weekend and dump it on my side of the road. The county tries their hardest to keep my mailbox open but their plows are too big, then they bring a grader out with the wing and angle blade on the front and it's even worse. Best thing they have to use is their end loader which can dig, carry and dump the snow 3-4 rows into the corn field which acts like taller snow fence.

A snow thrower/blower may be better able to pile snow away from your drive without having to drive on your grass and risk tearing it up but I've also had the problem of getting too high of piles with them too.

Worst mistake I made one year when we had a lot of snow was piling it up in front & uphill from the house. About early/mid Febuary SON & I had a snow moving day. Pushed ALL the snow in front of the house down and as far away from the house as we could move it. And with two 7000# tractors and 80 inch wide buckets/blades with plenty of chains & weights we moved a lot of snow in a hurry. When we were done after an hour, maybe hour and a half, we had most of the front yard cleared.

Back when I was 10-12 yrs old I used to pile up HUGE mountains of snow around ten ft high with the '51 M & Stan-Hoist loader with it's big snow bucket. I'd clean out ALL the corners of the barnyard to get snow for the pile. Even with the loader & blade on the Super H I can pile snow around 7-8 ft high, little less than with the M, and I made piles that tall and 30-35 feet long in front of my shop a couple winters ago.

All my snow moving is done at low speed, less than 2 MPH. Too easy to tear up my concrete drive, the yard, or a great old FARMALL tractor in the cold if you go fast. Normally takes me a half hour to clear all my driveway and in front of my mailbox & shop with the big tractor once I get it out and warmed up. Even the "Storm of the Century" two years ago where I had 2-3 foot deep drifts blown in front of the attached garage and my shop it only took just over an hour clearing everything.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jeff, if you have the complete 149 lift setup that plate might be in the way. I'd remove it but keep it complete with the mounting U-bolts in a safe place. Do you have a copy of the 169 Hydraulic lift install manual? If not, I can send it via email...

 

[kmcconaughey]

Paul, sounds like you've been busy.

 

[jbaker]

Kraig, no I do not have a copy so a email would be great help,, thanks so much..

I did keep the bolts and plate which both had yellow overspray on them

 

[thoffman]

So I have to drill some holes into some 1/4" "hardward store grade" bar stock and I know my 5/16" but is busted. So I go to Harbor Freight and get some drill bits. I think those bit are made out of lead! I drill, and drill and drill and jack squat! Head to the local big box home store and get some Milwaukee bits......like a hot knife through butter! Todays lesson buy cheap get cheap.