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Archive through December 04, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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rdehli

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2002
Messages
702
displayname
Rob Dehli
Forgot to mention it is worse when the motor gets warm ... It is definatly interesting!!!
 
Rob, it could be a marginal condenser breaking down at higher RPM and as it warms up. They're cheap, relatively speaking, and easy to replace.
 
I am "LURKING"
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And have been every day for years now. Lots of good info from you guys to keep my cubs going. Thanks
 
Rob I would check my grounds on the condencer and if all is good go to the points and check gap.
 
Rob D,

Could be one of two possible problems: 1) Points/timing not set right or 2)High speed needle on your carb needs to be opened up as it sounds like your engine is starving for fuel at higher speed. Other causes could be a blockage in your carb or the float level is set too low.

Brain J,

I'm not sure of the SAE weight rating of the CNH BP Grease but it is thicker than SAE 90 wt oil. It has the consistency of a pudding and looks like butterscotch! Good stuff though. If you take regular grease gun grease (IH 251H EP) and mix in about 10-20% SAE 90 and stir it until it has the consistency of pudding you are there. The grease should adhere to the gears and flow.
 
I also have been lurking for almost 10 years now. Thanks everybody.

Rob, if all else fails, check the point pushrod end that contacts the camshaft for straightness. Some of the point rods are aluminum where-as the end or this rod is no longer flat due to wear. The result is a forever changing point gap! Kinda goes without saying on how it will start and run!

This issue drove me nuts on a several K Kohlers, now I inspect the camshaft-end of the point rod whenever replacing points.
 
I had some 1/4" x 1-1/2" bar stock laying around from the engine cradle upgrade on my 1450 and was needing a lift strap for my 100. Here's how it came out.

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Someone was asking about the proper u-bolt to mount the strap. I did what Kirk Lorenz did with flat bar stock to keep it from twisting.
 
Thanks for all the advice. I removed the points and looked at the push rod in side ... looks a little bit worn, also will replace the condenser and points too, hopefully this will correct the 1650 and make it run like it should.

thanks

I'll let you know later tonight or in the morning if its better

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Rob D. Did you by chance paint the engine after you rebuilt it? Most people do and paint can be a good insulator. You need a good ground engine to frame, and then your condenser gets its ground through the top bolt on the coil mount. The head of that bolt is backed in against the cylinder wall to get a good ground independent of the tin plates which might not make a good ground due to paint.

I would also probably check my valve adjustments again just to be sure they are correct.
 
Rob D. That would be the bottom bolt on the coil mount that is backed in against the cylinder head for the ground contact, not the top bolt.
 
Richard:
Is it time yet to suggest to Rob that his builder missed the cam timing by one or two teeth??
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All you lurkers out there - come on in and get wet, there's room for everyone to contribute !!! Even asking questions is a help, as that's how the knowledge gets brought out...
 
i know this is off topic but does anyone know if the old Ford LT lawn tractors are worth anything?
 
That bracket that Kieth made is the one that that guy I talked to said I could hook up my hydro ram clevis to. I still dont think thats right, but he swore it would work. Any takers on this one?
 
Didn't they use Kohlor engines? You can always use Kohlor parts.
 
Also, does anyone know if I absolutley need to use hydraulic oil in that hydro pump? The manual said a 10w oil will work, but I'm concerned with foaming if I do.
 
Does anyone have a good way of removing the old number decals from the fiberglass dash panel sides like on a wide frame (1X8/9 or QL)? I don't want to use a wire brush for fear of damaging the fiberglass. Trying to get it and the Cubby ready for a repaint job and new decals in the spring.
 
I'm luuurking too, try peeling it off with a heat gun or a blow dryer and a sharp single edge razor.It worked for me.
 
Speaking of razor blades I was at a place that did re-striping on Motor homes and they had plastic razor blades that they used to remove the decals. I've looked for them but have never been able to find them for sale. Anyone seen them?
 
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