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Archive through December 04, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Thanks Terry, but I'd prefer to buy my bolts from an American airport!

Kraig, don't tell Terry, but I think you're more correct.

I guess the more important info is the bolt length, thread size, and grade of "hardness." Thanks guys.
 
Does anybody have a scan of the wiring diagram on a 1650 mine does not show the, wiring between points and coil or condenser.
 
Ron R. Schmitt - I've used a Smart Eraser Pad to remove some pretty old decals before. These are used by professional auto body shops to remove decals. It works pretty darn good and it won't hurt the fiber glass dash. Now, the one I have was given to me so I'm not sure where you can get them at the stores but you can purchase them online at SJ Discount Tools if you want. I don't have a Pneumatic wrench to use the pad in so I just put it in a drill chuck and used it that way.
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Kenneth
 
Rob D - I went & reread your OP and the advice given. To me, the key here is this problem gets worse when the engine gets warm. Is the spark plug new and what "color" is the electrode? I'm thinking the coil might be bad - try swapping it if you have a spare. Also - make sure your battery grounds are clean & tight.

Marty
 
Nick Hasson,
No, that's not paint. It's a rubber mat that comes under printing paper rolls when shipped on end in a tractor trailer. This keeps the rolls from sliding around on the floor. I work for an independent printing paper merchant and get rolls in every so often with these under them. When I got my new building I laid these all over the floor to keep from getting oil spots on the plywood.

I also cut to fit this stuff in my roll around tool box drawers.
 
Rob, when you figure out your problem you can come work on my 1650. Mine is acting up after it has been run for 30-45 minutes. It runs great for that amount of time and then it will just bog down and backfire for a few seconds and then run fine for another few minutes and then start in again. It started it this spring. Last month I replaced the coil, points, condensor and spark plug. I also took the carb off and put a rebuild kit in it. I checked the valve clearance at this time and it was within specs. I checked the fuel flow and with the cap on and tight, it would fill a quart container in less than 5 minutes. This means that flow is over a gallon every 20 minutes. Since it only uses a gallon an hour when working hard, I should have about 3 times the flow required. I can run it at about 3/4 throttle and it will not act up as often. My only thoughts are that when it gets good and hot, I have one or both valves sticking just a little once in a while. I put stabil and MMO in the gas can everytime I fill it and have been for many years. Any one have any other ideas on what to look for.
 
Wes: Carbon build-up? Mouse nest? Points set too close?
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This must be getting close to archiving.... this wide page is starting to get to me.
 
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