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Archive through August 31, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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D

dvogt

Guest
Tim , yes thats a Super Cub reduction housing out of billet aluminum. it replace's the regular reduction housing. theres some work involved to get the brake to operate but its not to bad. when I tear it down for paint I'll snap some pics.

I got this set from Amstutz pulling . they have the round & the 129 style in fiberglass. nothing wider that I know of. there may be a few more manufacturers for the round fenders from what I hear. I have fiberglass Super Cub grill. I mae my own aluinum hood so the sheet mteals pretty light
 
Don!
Thanks for the answer to Tim's question.I'm still confused about a drop box and a reduction housing.Would you elaborate?
 
John. whatever you want to call the housing on the front of the rearend. some people call it a drop box others a reduction housing.
 
Wading a little into uncharted territory, the dipper that comes with a Super Cub billet aluminum rod has been upgraded to one hopefully more suited too working in an engine that'll be sitting off-level a significant amount of time (one wheel in the furrow, plowing). A grade 8 bolt of appropriate length is tough to find, but I was able to find one that can be cut down, it's a bolt for a Kohler K582 starter, one of the few engines that used 1/4" fine hardware versus the normal 1/4" coarse hardware. The new dipper's been cut to match length of the old dipper and polished. A jam nut and loctite aid holding the new dipper to the rod cap.
21304.jpg

21305.jpg
 
Pardon my confusion- I don't get it Wyatt... how is it modified, and where does the bolt fit into the picture?
 
Dave,
Looks like it is threaded into the bottom of the cap after it has been cut down. ground and polished to a nice point. Kenny
 
If Wyatt shows an end view, you will see the jam nut he refers to.
 
heres a couple pics of the rearend with the halfpint style gear box from Super Cub
your_image.gif

your_image.gif
 
Guess I have some editing to do. have to wait till tomorrow

Wyatt: I wouldn't do that. first off pullers rin with the front up at double what you are planning to run with no problems. 2nd I've seen the short dippers break and I've seen them fall out. then they usually have oiling issues.
 
Wyatt,
Regarding your rod/dipper mods:
Is the weight the same? I would assume that this is part of a balanced assembly.
I guess I'm also kind of curious as to why it would need to be grade 8. A lot of torque on the jam nut? Would that do anything to distort the rod cap?
With aluminum and steel parts together, would you also use an anti-seize compound of some type?
I'm not being a smart-aleck, just trying to reduce my ignorance.
 
Wyatt- Did the forged rod originally have a dipper as part of the rod-cap? Did you cut it off and make the new pointed-bolt dipper?

Seems to me that running a pointed-bolt dipper shape would be fine for a high-rpm application, but not for long-term working... but since I'm never in that performance category (pulling trailers up my driveway), I wouldn't really know...
 
The MSC rod cap had a short dipper originally,Dave. It looks just like a stud the snowmobilers use in their tracks. Probably about an inch and a half long max which was threaded into the rod cap. Works fine in pulling applications since we spin 'em so fast,and for such a short duration that they oil just fine. You can view the Midwest Super Cub website and see the rods pictured which will show the dipper.
 
there should be no problem oiling if you adjust your oil level accordingly. the general idea in to roll the engine over till its at BDC then remove the cam cover and fill it with oil till it just covers the dipper then remark your dipstick accordingly
 
Don- That is pretty neat. Does the drop box have the normal reduction to drive the bottom shaft? Or does it now drive the top shaft in the tranny?

On the dipper...I understand the longer slinger for running stock oil level. Is there anything against running an elevated oil level in the motor? Seal failure? Foaming? Especially running in the furrow as much as Wyatt plans to.
 
Gimp- running the oil level too high causes a pretty substantial power loss- the rod ends up splashin' into the oil, then slingin' it violently around the inside of the case... that eats up a phenominal amount of torque... worse if the engine' s bouncing around. High-zoot guys refer to it as 'windage'. I found that by running a deeper sump and longer pickup in my little boat's oil-pan, substantial baffling and a crank-scraper, that my boat's inline six developed a fair bit more torque at top end, and it didn't lose a mess of power after hitting a wave or two. Prior to lowering the sump and pickup, I'd lose about 9mph just from the bounce of crossing a wake.... furthermore, the frothing would cause my indicated oil-pressure to drop about 10psi while all that foam got sorted out.
 
theres a set of reduction gears in there. they are just smaller. the tranny has 17 , 18 ,19 , & 20 tooth gears in it. the 20 t comes out as a hi 26 hi believe
 
To Don, Wyatt or Dave Kirk-

Don said "...roll the engine over till its at BDC then remove the cam cover and fill it with oil till it just covers the dipper..."

Given that the Wheatland will be operating on a slope with the right side in the furrow mainly, and the cam is on the left side, is there anything to cause foaming on the right side of the motor?

If the oil is below the crank at BDC, and the tractor is say 15° off kilter, the oil would still be below the rotating assembly most likely.

Now, if the oil level was put over the stock level (as Don described), because the new SuperCub rod had a shorter dipper, and we are still running 15° off kilter, so the rotating assembly is still above the oil, is there anything else to cause problems. Will any seals or gaskets be under oil that may cause problems?
 
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