Kirk Engines, Inc Cub Cadet Used Parts CADET CONNECTION Cub Cadet Specialties Cub Cadet Specialties

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mhomrighausen

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Marlin Homrighausen
If you check a local hardware store by bringing along the trunion piece then you can actually purchase either a bronze of steel piece that will either stick out a little (acting as a shim) or a regular flush with the metal on the trunion washer. Either way it's easier than buying several small shims.
 

dschwandt

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David Schwandt
Got a coil/points wire question.
I had 2 coils fail in the last 2 weeks on the 1200.
Is the wire from the coil to the points something special? Or will just a plain copper 26 Ga wire suffice?
Coils were more than likely old, would the wrong wire, if indeed it is "special" be a cause for them to fail? or just a coincidence?
Thanks Guys!
 

danderson

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Doug Anderson
David- That wire is probably 12ga. Any wire should work. Heat kills coils. Bad condenser maybe?
 

jnicklas

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John Nicklas
David, I had the same problem on 1650 last year. I went through several coils. Like you they were off some of my tractors and were old. After doing a lot of checking I found that the points/coil wire was shorting out on the coil cover. This caused the coil to over heat and kill it. when you make up your new wire make sure it only makes contact with the points screw and nothing else.
 

dfrisk

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Dennis Frisk
Doug - 12 ga wire is HUGE. Points to coil wire is 16 ga, or 14 if you don't have 16 ga.
 

jpatchett

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Jim Patchett
David,

16ga wire should safely carry about 5-7A @ 12v depending on the number of strands and how well the connections are done. Generally the more stands the better for low voltage (12v). Fine strand wire tends to make more surface area contact at the connections. Vehicle wire is a decent choice, found at most auto parts stores.

jim
 

dschwandt

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David Schwandt
Thanks guys, I meant to say 16 Ga, not 26!!
Loaded 2 trailers w/Cubs for a local show tomorrow.
The 108 will make it's debut, done about as much as it's gonna be, for now.
 

gloughery

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George Loughery
Thanks for the hydro advice. It's all together and about ready to start up. A few questions. I replaced the push button manual check valves with auto. I can push the tractor back and forth on the shop floor fairly easily - is there anything wrong with doing this now that the valves are auto? Has hydraulics. Drive shaft does not want to spin when I push it, which I believe is good. All oils full, no leaks. Hopefully all is well.

I looked before and found a good reference how to connect all the electrical stuff before I put the fenders back on, but now I can't find it. I am not really looking forward to setting the external brakes and creeping hydro. Just need to figure out how to make those battery, voltage regulator, whatever connections to get it running and make the necessary adjustments. I see all the wire size comments here. I have some old wires with alligator clips, does wire gauge matter at this point, when do I need to watch the wire sizes? Thanks for any links.
 

sblunier

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Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
George,

You can adjust both the hydro N adjustment and the external brakes with the fender deck on.
 

gloughery

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George Loughery
Thanks for the info. The external brakes are completely off, so I have to take the tires back off to get at everything. I was hoping to do all of this with the tires and fender off in case I need to make any adjustment in any linkages. Now the hydro fan is 1/4" from the float lock out, but it is the correct distance. So close to being done I dont want to blow it now. If I finish before winter I have time for a 5th one! (Maybe I need a 125 next....)
 

wshytle

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Wayne Shytle
George-

I've seen/had fans "creep" down the drive shaft once the engine is running. I always assumed it was a weak snap ring and the fan wouldn't grip the shaft. Ever since I put a small wrap of electrical tape in front of the fan to avoid any creeping. You may want to do the same because once the fan gets to the lock out it's toast.

.
 

gloughery

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George Loughery
Thanks for the advice; I will try the tape. The area around the fan is tight with very little room to work. Attaching the clevis assembly correctly is confusing, see photo. I don't have a lock out and the PO had one pin it there like it shows. (Still not really sure what the lock out does and when I need to use it.) Is it okay to put a second pin in that bottom hole? The head of that top pin is where the fan hits, maybe there should be no washer on that side? That fan is exactly where the manual says to space it. The hydraulic lift arm connects to the clevis rather sloppy, is there a better way than shoving fat washers on both sides? Anything else catch your eye? That brake spring has bitten three knuckles on my left hand already...a-l-m-o-s-t and PING off it slips while gouging a chunk off my knuckle. Very little room to put a hand in there and using a fat screwdriver is just begging to brake that fan! Thanks all.
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rrschmitt

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Ron R. Schmitt
George L,

The pin needs to be in the lower hole to allow the clevis to float properly. See picture via the following FAQ link http://cubfaq.com/qlbrakesprings.html

Also hook a wire through the spring hook and clamp a vise grip on the wire and pull on the vise grip to hookup the brake return spring. Prevents numerous slips and knuckle injuries.
 

hydroharry

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Harry Bursell
George L - don't want to confuse you here on the clevis pin so just move the pin to the lower hole as Ron S mentioned (and as you can somewhat see in the link he posted).

Just so you know, there is a special "Float Lock-out Pin". BUT I really doubt you'll ever want to use it. Installing the special pin provides down pressure. Your deck or any other attachments will no longer "float" up. They will be fixed at what ever setting you put them at. I think it's really only ever used with a front or rear blade, and maybe a tiller - but don't quote me.
 

ekincaid

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Ethan Kincaid
George I'm glad you posted that question about the float lock out pin I've asked the same question
 

gloughery

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George Loughery
Great info, thank you. Did all as suggested and put brakes back on axle. Ready to fire it up this weekend, will keep you all posted. Thanks again.
 

digger

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The last 4 of the lot of 30 shelves stuffed full of Cub parts, and the last 10 storage boxes of 42, finally all home after 5 - 46 mile round trip runs today!
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rbeem

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Ever get the feeling your tractor is looking at you, LOL.
126 got a "facelift".....when these jumped in my cart on Amazon.
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